My genoa has become near impossible to furl back in. After researching this forum, I think I need a new lower drum (and bearing) unit. It looks like I have the model #2100 and luckily Schaefer still has the replacement/ upgraded unit....now at $180.
For those of you that have done the replacement, what has your experience been with the new unit? How much of an improvement did it actually make?
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Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
Tremendous improvement! It actually worked after the replacement. I purchased the replacement after having problems during the summer season. By the time I took out the old unit, you couldn't turn it by hand at all.
The new unit has a hole in the drum for flushing (and labeled "Flush" as I recall) which is visible when the sail is furled. After you replace the unit, flush it with fresh water every chance you get
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Stephen, I will second that. It was the best investment that I made to the boat. My jib was almost impossible for me to deploy. The project itself is an easy one; however, I would suggest that you use a large towel or blanket underneath the area you are working on. That way if, no I should say when, you drop something it doesn't go overboard. I used duct tape and sure enough, I inadvertently dropped a couple pieces of hardware thankfully to be saved by the placement of the blanket. You will be thankful that you changed this part out believe me. Good luck.
Glenn Druhot
Carpe Diem
New Bern, NC
35* 6' 10" N / 77* 2' 30" W
2001 C36, Hull #1965
Std Rig; Wing Keel; M35B
Thanks Glenn and Chuck, that was the feedback I was looking for...what a great forum and association.
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
Before ordering the replpacement lower unit, I decided to test my lower drum at the dock. The drum rotated pretty easily by hand, so I'm not sure I need to replace it. My forestay is tight so I don't think that is the problem. I seem to have a lot of friction in the line from the drum to the cockpit so I am going to work on improving that. Any other ideas or suggestions?
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
If you loosen the jib halyard a little when furling or unfurling the jib it may work better. I know it works for me.
__/)__/)__/)__Capt Mike__/)__/)__/)__
Punta Gorda Florida
1990 Std WK M35 Hull #1050
Thanks, I will try that....
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
[QUOTE=StephenK;21350]My genoa has become near impossible to furl back in. After researching this forum, I think I need a new lower drum (and bearing) unit. It looks like I have the model #2100 and luckily Schaefer still has the replacement/ upgraded unit....now at $180.
For those of you that have done the replacement, what has your experience been with the new unit? How much of an improvement did it actually make?[/QUOTE]
The previous owner on my boat had bashed up the bow pulpit pretty well. The broker replaced it after the survey & test sail but before I took possession of the boat. When I got the boat the furler was very difficult to operate. Much different than it was on the test sail. After some investigation I found the marina had installed the lead guide on the furling line in a way that created a lot of friction out of the drum. It was not really apparent at first. I moved the leading guide and the furler worked fine.
Greg Jackson
SV Jacqui Marie
2004 C36, MKII
tall rig, wing keel,
Make sure the "cage" around the line spool isn't pushed out of position causing your line to rub and increase friction. There's a set screw on the bottom of the cage you can loosen and move the cage itself (need a fairly large allen (sp?) wrench).
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ