I recently graduated from 20 years of C 30 ownership to a 2005 C36 MKII and am looking for some info on the mainsheet layout and mainsail furling. On my C 30, as well as all my previous sailboats- the mainsheet was a single line. The C36 uses one line, but free two ends each leading aft into the cockpit. I can lock either end into a jamming cleat and control the boom by wrapping the sheet around the Lewmar winch on the opposite side of the cabin roof, but why the complexity? Why not have a more traditional set up where one end of the sheet is tied off on the boom?
My other question is with the furling system on the mainsail. Even pointing into the wind when unfurling, the car on the boom seems to get hung up on the boom track and I need to manually free it so the outhaul can slide aft. I don't have the issue furling the sail when taking it in. Am I doing something incorrectly or should I apply some type of track lubricant?
PKeyser
Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B
I too am an ex cat 30, hoping to be a cat 36 owner soon. I have seen a number of posts on the site about being sure you release the main halyard tension before you furl and unfurl Under the new owner tab on the site I think there is a Catalina manual for the furling main that has some good suggestions. I am sure there will be plenty of members in the know who will respond to your question. Great site ! Tom
Tom Irwin
North Saanich, BC, Canada
1983 Catalina 30 - #3134
Until June 10, 2013
Future Catalina 36 MK II owner
Pkeyser,
I suppose you could take one side of the mainsheet and make it fast at the base of the mast (where the turning block is). Then when you tensioned the one free end, it would still apply the same force on the boom as designed.
If you tried to skip a few of the blocks and tie off the mainsheet at the end of the boom, you would not have the same forces or mechanical advantage and that could be bad.
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/
PKeyser (BTW, that's an unusual first name...how'd your parents come up with it?)...
I have a 2002 model and had a lot of trouble with the main car also. I have a US Spars set-up (some boats have a Selden I believe) and after a lot of research and talking with their tech support guy found out a few things. What follows is for US Spars... if you have the other, check with them.
First, you don't want to lubricate the car. They do have a dry lubricant they said you could use if you want to, but they don't recommend it. What you can try doing is replacing the bearings or the entire car and bearings. This was my problem and the new car helped it a lot (fine tuning the rigging is essential too... too much or too little halyard tension screws up the alignment, as will having your mast at anything other than straight up). For US Spars, a new car cost about $65, for just the bearings less than that.
Don't try to take the car off without having the piece of track they send you or you'll have ball bearings bouncing all around and out of the boat.
The problem I had was the end of the sail (clew???... I can never keep the names of the sail ends straight) would pull out and over the car. Then, as I pulled on the outhaul, the pressure became an upward pull on the car and it seemed to jam. It confused me because when not under load, the car moved freely on the track, but the bearings were the problem. If this is what's happening to you, I'd strongly suggest replacing the bearings. Its simple and relatively cheap to do.
That being said, other parts of the system effect the whole systems effectiveness. US Spars recommends sending in the lower unit of the main furler for an overhaul every 10 years. I have yet to figure out how to get that part out but be aware of it. The other part having an impact is the downhaul line that wraps around the furler itself. No one replaces it often, but it swells with exposure to salt water and adds resistance to the whole system. I replaced mine just this year (the first replacement for the boat) and, with the newish bearings/car and the line, everything seems to be working better. I also flush out the bearings in the car and the lower furling unit with fresh water every chance I get.
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Thank you for your replies. Very helpful!
Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B
I re rigged my boat in 2008 with a us spars rig. A couple of things, yes boom car can stick a little use mclube from harken and no problem there, do not use silicone! I have removed my in haul screw twice easy peasy a couple of bolts and off it comes, while inside a little mclube works wonders. As for Mainsheet I hated double end set up and ordered some blocks from Garhauer and rigged it just like the 34. Works great, a lot less line in the cockpit and freed up another cleat for a second jib halyard.
Chic Lasser
Past Commodore