I have my instrument panel out for a slight addition and this brings up a number of questions.
First, I seem to remember that there is some issue regarding possable melting or damage to some panels with an upgrade needed but am unable to find info on the website regarding this issue. I know it is here I am just using the wrong key words in my search. If someone remembers the link to this info, I would appreciate a heads up.
Second, while unplugging the panel to remove it, I had to scrape off some hard waxy sealant applied to the connector. When I re-mate the panel, what is the best way to seal the connection. I was thinking using some heavy duty, large diameter heat shrink which has adhesive on the inside but ther may be a better way.
Third, While I have the panel out I want to clean and seal all the contacts. What product(s) are recomended and are there any pitfalls beyond making sure that they are di-electric and don't melt the plastic components.
Fourth, There is no oil pressure alarm installed. The port for the alarm is in the panel but no alarm and no loose or unused wire that would have hooked up to one if it had at one time been installed and subsequently removed. I'll be looking for the sender on the engine and if found try to identify the wiring if it exists. I will be correcting this issue but would appreciate any thoughts someone may have.
As always,thanks to all who help.
Neil Roach
"Crewless"
1992 36, Mark I
Hull # 1174
Seattle
Try this;
[url]http://www.c36ia.com/forums/search.php?searchid=222213[/url]
Used Seaward Upgrade, note Seaward is now owned by Whale and when I checked the website it did not pull up the same info Seaward had...so I'm not sure, but it may be a place to start!
Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine
OK, I have been reading some of the posts and info about the panel upgrade and compared this info to what is on my boat. Clearly someone did some of the upgrade as the alt was connected directly to the batt.and there was no plug on the engine side when I bought the boat. I have since completely rewired all the heavy systems, charging, batt. etc and brought them up to current standards. The plug at the panel end was intact when I removed the panel and the connectors were in pristine condition. I guess that at this point the only significant current passing through the panel would be the glow plugs. If so, maybe a solonoid would be in order as I don't think one is installed. I definately need to resolve the oil pressure alarm issue and will start getting that sorted out in a day or two.
Neil Roach
"Crewless"
1992 36, Mark I
Hull # 1174
Seattle
Neil, you can get those solenoids at NAPA pretty cheap and according to my Universal dealer that's all the OEM ones are. This post:
[url]http://www.c36ia.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6994&postcount=3[/url]
Gives the description and part numbers of the one I got from NAPA. Some have a separate case ground but since you don't have one now you likely can use either style. Having a functional solenoid shortened our need to use glow plugs from 30 seconds down to about 10.
I am currently doing the wiring harness upgrade and a new Instrument panel at the same time. The PO did the alt bypass and the glow plug solenoid but not the plugs. The plug in the engine area was brittle and cracked while separating the two halves. And the one at the panel was even more brittle and had severe corrosion. Since I had only two working gauges in my panel and wanted the high temp alarm I went for the new panel, plus it looks better than what I had.
I had quite a rats nest of wires in the engine area and going through the process has helped me track down, upgrade, and or remove most all of it.
One modification I made is that the new panel was set up that the blower could only be operated with the key in the on position. From habit, I run the blower for a few minutes before starting, and I like to run it for awhile after shutting the engine down to help with any residual heat. I didn't think anyone wanted to hear the low pressure alarm chirping away the whole time so I bypassed the the need to have the key "ON" to run the blower.
Fred & Cathy
Black Magic
1984 Catalina 36 Tall
Hull #315
Traverse City, MI
I am a big fan of using Rust Check Spray Fluid on almost all electrical and any other bolt etc. Works great and there are 2 versions one that will creap well into seams etc and an other one that is a bit thicker. In Canada it is availble at all Canadian Tire Stores.
[URL="http://www.rustcheck.com/"]http://www.rustcheck.com/[/URL]
[URL="http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoBodyRepair1/AutoBodyRus..."]http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoBodyRepair1/AutoBodyRus...
Ross & Joanne
Wavelength
Saint John NB
RKYC
C36 #658 TR 1987
i think catalina direct mentions that upgrade on thier web site under engine panels.
James DeBrum
S/V Slip Mistress
1984 C36 #333
Charleston S.C.
jgdebrum@gmail.com