This is an informational post for C36 owners that have the Lewmar Ocean 65 forward hatch used from approximately 1988 forward.
As many already know, the acrylic lens in this hatch crazes over time from U/V exposure and can become nearly opaque and also weakened. Mine is over 24 years old (Hull #864) and started crazing at least 10 years ago. In researching my options for this repair (not done yet), I thought I would pass along what I found.
There were two Lewmar Ocean 65 hatches used by Catalina. The first had "Roll-Stop" hold opens at the hinge (used ~ 1988-1992). The second (current) model has friction hinges. They are not interchangeable.
Repair Options:
1. Replace the entire hatch and deck frame - $700 (Catalina Direct). Will work for either hatch but removal and installation of the deck frame could be interesting (Lewmar has a whole tech section on their recommended proceedure).
2. Replace the hatch lid only - $507 (Catalina Direct). This is only an option for owners with the newer friction hinge lid. It will not work with the roll-stop hinge model, the lid for which is not available being out of production for 20 years.
3. Replace the lens only - $255 (Catalina Direct). Watch out here, there are two shown, the cheaper one ($186) is for a Bomar hatch and will not work. Installation, if DIY, is tricky and the lid must be removed from the boat. You will also need a new lens gasket - $40.
4. Remove the hatch lid only and ship out for a professional lens replacement - Select Plastics, Norwalk, Ct ([url]http://www.selectplastics.com/[/url]) - $456 plus freight both ways. Does not include roll-stop pins ($60) if applicable. I am told they use the heavier 3/8" smoked acrylic (earlier Ocean 65's used 1/4"). Lead time ~ 3-6 weeks (winter is busy season). You must also design and install a temporary hatch to cover the big hole in the deck.
5. Do nothing - free. Just tell the anals that you wanted a privacy hatch anyway. Just don't step on the hatch.
Alternatives: If your hatch is not crazed (or in the early stages) you might want to consider a hatch cover to avoid the above fun.
Options here include a new solid cover from Outland ($75) ([url]http://www.outlandhatchcovers.com/index.htm[/url]). Possible issue - it requires gluing a ~ 1" twist lock retainer to the middle of your hatch.
The other alternative is a Sunbrella canvas cover available from various sources including ebay ($30-$50). Their security in high winds is unknown.
That's about the extent of what I have found so far. All comments welcome.
Jack
Mind's Eye #864
Milford, Ct
Great information Jack. I've replaced all my portlight lenses (easy) and have been gathering the resolve to send my main hatch to Select Plastics ($$$). Probably this winter. I always wonder why my Bomar hatch is fine, but the Lewmar hatches all craze. :mad:
Mike
Deja Vu
1991 MK I # 1106
Marina del Rey, CA
OK, here's a question. I've replaced all of the opening hatch lenses except the forward hatch. None were a big deal. What is so different about the forward hatch? I replaced the forward hatch lens on my '88 Catalina 30 and it was no different than replacing the lenses on my '97 C36.
Am I missing something?
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
I sent my hatch to hatch masters ,select plastics and they did a great job
Bill Miller
S/V Lorraine
Pacific Northwest,Sound Sound
Grapeview,Wa
1990 Mk1
Gary...
Don't know the technical difference but I spoke to the people in CT. They told me there are two types of forward hatches... one they said you could do yourself and the other much more difficult...they recommend sending that type to them. If you call them, they can tell you how to ID which you have.
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Lewmar vs Bomar:
I am also at a loss to explain why the mid-ship Bomar (US made) stands up so well. Mine is perfect after 24 years. The only difference is the pitch and tint. Then again, the Brits may not have figured out there's a sun up there somewhere behind all those clouds. Any "banned" cleaners I may have used in the early years I would have used on both. Ammonia and petroleum distillates are slow death to acrylic.
DIY Replacement:
My understanding is that the forward hatch lens gasket is the problem. Removing ALL the old gasket and sealant in order to have a very clean frame surface is critical. Apparently the placement, sealing and insertion of the new gasket/lens is also a bit tricky. Anyway, it's up to you whether it's worth the extra $200 to have it done professionally. The port light lenses are much simpler with the separate seal mounted on the cabin.
Port Light Drips:
I got a great tip from Rob White at Colvin Yachts 24 years ago when I bought the boat. I had some drips coming from the port lights during commissioning when the boat was brand new. He told me to ALWAYS run your finger around the gasket and edge of the lens before re-closing it. This removes the micro-grit fallout from the atmosphere which can ruin the seal between lens and gasket. I've done this religiously for all these years and, so far, no leaks.
Jack
Mind's Eye #864
Milford, Ct
Just an FYI on the Select Plastics replacement for the forward Lewmar hatch. I did mine this past spring and the outcome was terrific. Note that they also replace the seal as well. I often comment it is like having no hatch at all it is so clear. I also got the new hinges and it was li8ke $545. I replaced all the other cabin top opening ports with the thicker lense from Catalina Direct and along with that the new screens which are black and easier to install. I may do the fixed port lights soon.
I also got the cover for the forward hatch from Hatchmasters and it is a simple instalation. The two locking mechanisms have pressure sensative tape on them so there is no mess or difficulty to installing.
Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine
Have Sunbrella hatch covers made for Scottfree for about ten years to protect the plastic.Need to sure they have a good and tight drawstring around base of hatch and they will stay in place. Good to check them periodically.
Bob Scott
Scottfree, 1073
The thing that I find odd on my boat, is that all of the hatches except the forward one, are equally crazed. This includes the 2 under the dodger, and the big hatch to the aft cabin, which is under the seat. The way my boat faces, that aft cabin hatch would receive almost no sun, with those under the dodger getting just a bit more. So if it's just UV causing the crazing, I'd expect those hatches that receive the most sun to be worse than those that are shaded. My forward hatch has virtually no crazing (knock on wood), but it's under the inflatable, which gets stored on deck when I' away from the boat.
Just wondering if there is something else contributing to the crazing.?
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
If hatches which get little sun are crazing, I would suspect it may be because of the cleaner being used. Any cleaner with ammonia (i.e. Windex) or petroleum distillates will contribute to crazing. You should use only cleaner/polishes specifically made for acrylic such as Brillianize ([url]http://www.hatchmasters.com/product_info.php?cPath=211&products_id=70[/url]) or similar.
Jack
Mind's Eye #864
Milford, Ct
Hey Guys!,
Yes, I to know all about the crazing on hatch lens the hard way. My forward trap lens was not too bad but my square hatches were crazed bad. No doubt it was the direction my boat was docked. After relensing the top hatches, I have the new hatch covers for all my hatches that Gary and ccarl1252 were talking about. The covers actually came directly from OutlandHatchcovers. They range from $39.95 and up. I do not think Hatchmasters offered them. I also saw them for sale at sailboatowners. The locking device is not glued, but have sticky dots (a 3m product) that hold really well. The twist locks are in the rear corners and look like hatch gear. I am really enjoying them. I feel really good now that they are protected and the clock is not ticking anymore on the damage to my lens. They are so much better than the covers I used to have. I can actually open and close the hatches and dont have to go outside to fix the strings. Rick
Has anyone actually purchased the trap lens and done the replacement themselves? Sure, I can spend the Brazilian dollars to send in mine and have it done, or even buy a new one, but who wants to do that? I'd like to know if and how it is done.
Captain Moon
Captain Moon
Waxing Moon
2002 C36 MK II #2105
Port Charlotte, FL
Is there a write-up any where about replacing the forward trapezoid lens and gasket?
Thanks in advance.
David
2003 Catalina 36