Flying the asym for the first time

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tim_farrell
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Posts: 117
Flying the asym for the first time

I plan to fly the asym for the first time this weekend. Any advice is appreciated.

A couple of quick questions.

I don't have dedicated blocks for the sheets. Can I simply use the adjustable jib track block for the sym sheets?

I also don't have a block for the tack line. I suppose I can hard tie it to the bow somewhere - thoughts?

Other words of wisdom?

Thanks in advance.
tim

Tim Farrell
S.V. Kailua
C36 - 1986
Hull# CTY0678A886

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Nimue
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You can fly the tack of the sail off a line down to the anchor roller or tack shackle at the bow. You should probably make the line long enough to get the tack a foot or so above the bow pulpit. Depending on the angle of sail, you may want to tie a loose loop around the forestay also so that the tack line can not sag off to leeward too far.

The sheets really ought to be led farther aft than the genoa leads - ideally somewhere back near the helm. You should be able to lash a block on to the stern mooring cleats if all else fails, or even lead the sheet through the center of the stern cleat if you are really lacking adequate blocks etc. My spinnaker cars are about even with the forward leg of the stern pulpit, say 3' from the back of the boat.

Once it's up, the easiest angle to keep it flying will be to keep the apparent wind between 90 and 140 degrees (ie. keep the windex pointing just outside the tabs).

Jason V
Vancouver, BC, Canada

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SailorJackson
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Don't let the lazy sheet drag.

Last week we sailed across Lake Michigan, about 70 miles, from Milwaukee Muskegon. Offshore Musgegon around sundown the lazy sheet got away from us and fouled on the propellor. Not able to run the motor, we took down the spinnaker and sailed back to Milwaukee overnight, arriving around dawn, in order to resolve the problem in harbor. Just after dawn the wind died and a brave crew member volunteered to dive into the 48 degree water to cut the line.

The overnight sailing was not a big deal, we were planning on sailing back over night anyway. It is a problem to be sailing toward harbor knowning that you're not going to be able to motor in.

G. Jackson
SV Jacqui Marie

Greg Jackson
SV Jacqui Marie
2004 C36, MKII
tall rig, wing keel,

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tim_farrell
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Posts: 117

Thanks for the advice. I am happy to report that I was successful. We ran the Spinnaker on Saturday heading on a broad reach from Port Jefferson, NY on the way back to port (Northport). We have great wind (btwn 6-15 knots) most of the way and we were able to get up to about 7.4 knots speed.

Still trying to figure out how to keep it full the whole time, but that will come with practice. Also learned a couple of lessons on how I would like to rig it differently.

It was great fun flying the spinnaker.

Tim Farrell
S.V. Kailua
C36 - 1986
Hull# CTY0678A886

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deising
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Tim, I am glad you enjoyed flying your a-spin.

Here is what I did to rig:
I attached a strong padeye to the top plate of the cheek block that handles the genoa sheet. I then attached a swivel block with a snap shackle to the padeye. The spin sheet runs outside the lifelines to the block, then to the primary winch. The genoa is furled and the sheet moved to a convenient location off the winch, of course.

This rig is not as far aft as some would prefer, but it works great for me and meant very minimal disturbance to the original setup.

For the head, I use a swivel block attached to the masthead bail. I ran a dedicated spin halyard and added a cleat at the mast. Using the spare genoa halyard is generally a bad idea.

For the tack, I use an ATN tacker which looks like a plastic taco shell. It clips around the furled genoa and slides up and down as needed. If I am lazy and/or the apparent wind is far aft, I just use the Tacker and it usually rides up until the genoa sheets (at the approximate height of the furled clew) stop the tacker.

If I want to be proper and more efficient, I attach a snatch block to the anchor roller close its the attachment to the boat (not out on the end where the lever arm could threaten to pry the roller off the boat). I run the spare genoa halyard down parallel to the forestay, through the snatch block, then up to the bottom of the Tacker. That allows me, from the cockpit, to adjust the tack wherever I want it.

With an apparent wind forward (say 70 degrees), I use the downhaul to pull the tack low, tightening the luff, and it performs well.

Hope this helps.

Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/

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tim_farrell
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Duane,

Thanks for the description - that was really helpful. I especially like the idea of running the spare genoa halyard forward to use for the aspin tack line. My spare genoa halyard comes all the way back to the cockpit so I can control it from there.

I am going to experiment with how far aft to place the blocks for the sheets. I had them too far forward on Saturday. I have a couple of options for placement without drilling new holes.

Tim Farrell
S.V. Kailua
C36 - 1986
Hull# CTY0678A886

Leon.Irish
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How did the spinnaker halyard to the mast cleat work out? I am trying to figure out where the best spot is to lead the spinnaker halyard. With short handed sailing it likely makes more sense to not lead it back to the cockpit.

Leon Irish
C36 Mk11 2004
"Prosecco"

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LCBrandt
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Posts: 1282

Also how did you attach to the anchor roller? Photo?

Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
 

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deising
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No chance for a photo at the moment, but I will describe:

1. Having the spin halyard terminate at the mast is fine since you have to go forward to attach the gear and hoist the sock anyway. Bringing the halyard back to the cockpit would make it harder to use, in my opinion, not to mention the hassle of the extra blocks you would need to add.

2. As for attaching the snatch block that guides the spare Genoa halyard to the bow roller, our primary roller has a hole drilled in the vertical channel that I presume could be used for some sort of anchor hold down. I simply attach the snap shackle bail of the snatch block through the hole. It is far enough back so that it does not put an undue dtrain on the bow roller. I would be concerned about attaching it at the far end, for example.

Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/

jmontani
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Posts: 143

I use the a tack strap (around the furlled jib) with a line comming down to a block just behind the stem fitting then over to a bow cleat. For cruising I set the tack height just above the pulpit and leave it.

I agree about sheet position. I am stuck at the back end of the outboard tracks. I may try to use the stern cleats (since they are backed) and they are forward enough from the stern. The ideal spot for my G2 is somewhere between the end of the tracks and the cleats, "no man's land" on the boat. Probably right where the bimini mounts are.

Jack
Solstice
Hull #1598
1996 MKII/TR/FK - M35AC - 3 Blade MaxProp
Lake Texoma

www.texomasailing.org

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LCBrandt
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Jack, creative graphic! I like it. Thanks.

Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
 

jmontani
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Joined: 7/19/07
Posts: 143

[QUOTE=LCBrandt;12878]Jack, creative graphic! I like it. Thanks.[/QUOTE]

Thanks. I told dad that "all that fancy book learnin" would pay off.

Jack
Solstice
Hull #1598
1996 MKII/TR/FK - M35AC - 3 Blade MaxProp
Lake Texoma

www.texomasailing.org

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hwy1cat36
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I would love to see any photos that anyone may have of rigging the tack line.

Gary Johnson
1999 Cat 36 mkii, M35C
​Hull # 1755, Fin Keel
Homeport: Long Beach, California

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