I have had the 1999 C36 MKII now for a couple weeks. There has been a nagging issue with the transmission: It doesn't always go in to FWD, it takes a few tries for the fwd gear to engage. I have ensured that the engine was at dead idle (this engine seems to idle at 750 RPM, too high?). Thinking that this was a throttle linkage issue, I made an adjustment by popping the cable off it's ball socket, loosened the nut slightly and rotated the control arm on it's axel a few degrees fwd (toward the bow, which set the transmission control lever's neutral position slightly farther aft in it's throw arc. See the attached pic. The red arrow points to where I indexed the original position with red tick marks. Hoping this would engage the transmission in to fwd before the control lever hit the pedestal. It seemed to work initially. But now it seems I'm back to where I started. It takes a few tries, but eventually goes in to gear. This is VERY unsettling when maneuvering near the dock or other boats, for obvious reasons. I saw the service bulletin which talks about making a similar adjustment but mainly deals with adjusting the travel length of the cable itself. One note: when engaging the transmission by hand (pushing and pulling the control arm when the cable is disconnected from the ball socket) the transmission seems to engage through its full range. Another oddity: Once in a while, it seems that the transmission is in fwd gear (the boat moves fwd ever so slightly), except that the prop is only slightly turning despite the increase in RPM. When it actually goes in gear, you know it, the helm grabs and you can tell it's in gear. One thing I have yet to try is checking the fluid level. I will grab the manual and learn how to do this aboard tomorrow. Before I head down that road, does anyone have any experience with the transmission not wanting to go in to fwd gear? Thanks again for the guidance!
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
Mike, if you by chance have a folding prop, the blades will fold out slowly as centrifugal force starts to fold out the blades. Could account for slow initial thrust. The blades will fold out in slower initial RPM’s, not at high RPM. Also might be time to replace stretched out cable with new one.
peter g
2000 C36, MK2, Hull. #1897
wonderful, wonderful, wonderful ! ! !. 5 th Catalina
No, I wish. Standard issue I believe. 9". But, that's the feeling you get, that the shaft is turning yet the prop isn't biting. Appears to be a separate issue altogether. Or it's possible that it's my mind playing tricks on me. I'm off to take a look today, tinker a bit more.
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
Mike,
If I understand, you can fully engage FWD and REV by hand (control cable disconnected)? You should see a very positive engagement when below - you can also hear a bit of a clunk (something I never hear when the engine is closed up). If yes to that working, you have a cable issue. The manual for the engine covers the throw range required.
If you are not getting positive engagement in the above, you now need to look at the tranny. Start with the fluid, over or under filling can be a problem. I measure the height with the dip stick fully engaged. The manal does not specify to dip it, or thread it and then remove to read. All other dip sticks I've used on anything, you fully seat the dipper the get a reading. The transmission holds a scant amount of ATF. I use synthetic fluid, as the tranny runs hot. Use an oil vacuum pump (west marine and others sell them) to change the fluid.
If the transmission is run in a condition with slipping, time is short before it's rebuild/replacement time - unfortunately. If the fluid is dark and not red, it's either burnt (bad) or the wrong fluid (bad). Easier to change it.
Good luck!- don't hit my boat in the mooring field ;-)
PS. the tachometers are not very accurate. Use an optical tach ($20 at amazon) and calibrate the RPM from the crankshaft pulley. I think the idle RPM is supposed to be 800-1000 (can't remember exactly).
Hey Greg, thanks for the advice. I just checked the fluid, seems good and bright red, looks fresh to me but I'm going to check with the PO. I'm hearing and feeling a definitive pop, when engaging into and out of fwd and rev when doing it by hand (moving the throw arm by hand). So it lends itself to a cable issue. The PO mentioned that the engine needs to be at dead idle to engage, but that sounds like good practice rather than a mechanical reason? Still tinkering here, I'll let you know what I find.
Mike
Ps: hang fenders, lots of fenders...
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
On Jubilee this problem was caused by the shift handle hitting the instrument panel before the transmission was fully engaged. No problems with reverse. We solved this the easy, non-elegant way, by bending the shift handle carefully. Problem was solved.
Al Fricke
S/V Jubilee San Francisco Bay
Catalina 36' MkII #1867
Universal 35-B
Mike,
I have experienced the same thing as you. I have checked the linkage adjustments at the transmission and adjusted to allow full travel at the pedestal. The issue for me only happens when backing out of the slip and switching from reverse to forward. What I found that works for me is have the throttle at dead slow and put it in neutral for a couple of seconds before engaging the forward gear. It never happens when returning and going between forward and neutral as I'm coming down the fairway.
Bob Wilson
S/V Morning Breeze
2003 Catalina 36, Hull 2122
York River Yacht Club
Williamsburg, VA
Bob, thanks for the advice. I've tried pausing, then moving the lever slowly, I've tried briskly, at dead idle and slightly above idle. There doesn't seem to be a consistent reason for when it works or doesn't.
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
My next step is to investigate the linkage connection at the helm. Edson provides pretty good directions for removing the compass. Although the fact that I am hearing a definitive click, in and out of gear, with the engine off and looking in at the tranny from the aft berth, leads me to believe there is something going on when the engine is running, only when the gear box is under pressure.
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
I've got a 1988 Catalina 36 with the Universal 26hp. It's getting difficult to shift into reverse, can anyone direct me to troubleshooting info before I get a mechanic involved?
Richard
SV Aqua Rx
Can you give more details about "difficult to shift into reverse"?
Is it that the lever won't move far enough to engage reverse (in which case, have you checked and adjusted the linkage? Can you move it intro reverse down below at the transmission?), or does it just not engage once the lever is pulled back?
Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY
If you are also experiencing the same difficulty shifting into forward, then it would probably be the engine control cables between the helm and the transmission. Edson suggests replacing every 10 years. I just did mine on our 1998 and it made all the difference in the world. Not a difficult project. Just takes some time and planning. Edson has great articles and videos. Cables are available through Edson or Catalina Direct. If you go forward, also do the throttle cable.
David S Power
David S. Power
Two If By Sea #1687
Burnt Store Marina
Punta Gorda, FL
We had the same issue going into forward. Our remedy was the same as Jubilee which was to bend the shift handles. This was done by using a vice and propane torch to heat the elbow and a rubber mallet to reduce the angle in the shifter. This solved the problem and the shifter no longer contacts the pedestal
Tom
Airbus
2002 C36 Mk ll
Old Saybrook, Ct
Thomas Tydeman
2002 Catalina 36 Mk ll
Hull 2074 Tall/Fin
Old Saybrook, Ct
Airbus? I'm on the 330. I sit short call in Old Saybrook! Beautiful town.
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
I shorten the cable end at the transmission to correct the handle position.
Bob Wilson
S/V Morning Breeze
2003 Catalina 36, Hull 2122
York River Yacht Club
Williamsburg, VA
Retired American Airlines (USAirways) Small world!
Thomas Tydeman
2002 Catalina 36 Mk ll
Hull 2074 Tall/Fin
Old Saybrook, Ct
Greetings,
I’m trying to find the cable length for the control cable for my 1988 Catalina 36. There are two choices at CatalinaDirect, anyone have correct guidance for me?
Richard Williams
SV Aqua Rx
On our 1985 MkI, we purchased from Catalina Direct a 14' and a 15'; the longer one was for the speed control, and the shorter for the transmission control. Fit was fine.
Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY
I replaced the control cables on our '98 and removed them before ordering new ones. It is true the speed one is about a foot longer. It is easy to deal with one a bit longer than necessary instead one too short.
David S Power
Two If By Sea
1998 MK II #1687
Punta Gorda, FL
David S. Power
Two If By Sea #1687
Burnt Store Marina
Punta Gorda, FL