I have read the many posts about how terrible the stanchion waste tank vent is, and how Peggy Hall recommends relocating it to a standard mushroom through-hull vent. I am ready to do this on my C36 Mk II, and even have a Forespar Marelon through hull fitting and a good hole saw. Now the key question that I have not seen on any forum -- Where?
Currently, the vent connects to the second stanchion back on the port side, connecting to the stanchion base in the cabinet above the head. They routed the 3/4" vent line forward from the saloon waste tank, and then up through the shelves. By the way, the base of the deck around the base of this stanchion got water intrusion, hence the sudden interest in moving the vent. I could just bend the vent hose 90 degrees and drill a hole inside that cabinet (option 1). With a bit more work I could backtrack the line back into the saloon area, then go through the forward cabinet on the port side, but that would mean drilling through the teak finish on the back wall of that cabinet (option 2). This would shorten the vent by 3-4 feet, but also lower it on the hull below the sealed ports, and I don't want to ingest seawater through the vent. What have you guys done?
Also, for those who have done this modification, did you buy a new stanchion to replace the "vented" one, or can I just use a hacksaw to remove the through-deck vent? I'm planning to seal that 1.5" deck hole to avoid future water incursion.
John Parsons
"Water Music" 1999 Catalina 36 Mk II - Hull 1771
Tall Rig, Fin Keel
Bay City, MI, USA
I've been toying with this idea also -- my thought on my MK1 - so may be different for you - was to route the line next to the pump out and place and drill thru in the general vicinity of the pumpout/fuel fill fittings. This cabinet has a removable panel so I won't have to butcher the teak in the fwd cabinet. It will require drilling a few holes inside the boat - nothing structural. For the stanchion - I was going to pull it - router out the balsa around the hole - seal the bottom and fill with epoxy, to the top. I would then remount the stanchion probably routering and filling the mounting holes with epoxy.
Les
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore
I'm in the middle of the deck work now. I heartily suggest reading Mainesail's excellent articles, if you are not familiar with that process http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects. I Dremeled out the extremely durable marine plywood, and am planning to fill with thickened epoxy after some more drying time this winter. I'm debating whether to just cut the fitting off the current vented stanchion, or spring for another $75 new stanchion without the vent from Catalina Direct.
John Parsons
"Water Music" 1999 Catalina 36 Mk II - Hull 1771
Tall Rig, Fin Keel
Bay City, MI, USA
Just for the heck of it would someone tell my what problem moving the holding tank vent,solves?
Bill Matley
Duncan Bay Boat Club
Cheboygan, Michigan
Lakes Huron, Michigan,
Canadian North Channel
"Spirit of Aloha" Hull #1252
Bill, exactly. Seems to me a solution in search of a problem. I see nothing wrong with the stanchion vent.
Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
Two issues I want to avoid: overflow draining onto the deck and smells (normally heavier than air) wafting aft. I've had the latter, but never overfilled. The motivation for doing this now is a damp, not rotten, deck core around that stanchion. Since it's the only damp area near a stanchion, I attribute it to the through deck hole.
John Parsons
"Water Music" 1999 Catalina 36 Mk II - Hull 1771
Tall Rig, Fin Keel
Bay City, MI, USA
I've also been told that it helps keep the odor down by promoting a better bacterial breakdown of the waste. Taken to the extreme there are systems that actually pump air into a bubbler system in the holding tank to promote bacteria growth that breaks down the waste. Also the stanchion vents have a history of plugging.
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore
The other idea is to cross vent. Add a vent to the other side of the boat. This way air does get introduced in to the holding tank and forced out.
Randy Sherwood
Mutualfun 1990 # 1057
T/R W/K M35a
Home. Charlotte, Mi.
Boat. St Augustine,Fl.
According to what I've read dual vents are the way to go. Also the vent hole seems a bit small. I may add this to my "to do" list.
Chuck Lennox
97 MKii Ventura Ca
Island Girl Hull #1611
I've read about dual waste vents in Peggy's book, but still there is a practical problem - "where?". As you know, the stock C36 waste holdiing is under the port midships setee. The vent needs to come up near the rail to keep it dry during healing. Length of vent line reduces ventilation. All those things considered, where do you put the outlet for that second vent? If it's right next to the first, there is no cross-ventilation, just an effectively larger vent hose. Getting it to either end of the boat, or to the starboard side, would route the new vent for 15 - 20 feet!
John Parsons
"Water Music" 1999 Catalina 36 Mk II - Hull 1771
Tall Rig, Fin Keel
Bay City, MI, USA
Hm. Well we have a major bad odor problem every time anyone uses the head. I've tried different chemicals without any noticeable change. On my old 26 footer with a vent below the rail through the hull I never had this problem. I have no moisture in the deck issues, but if moving the vent from through the stanchion to below the rail would help, I'd do it. The heeling issue was never a problem and even if we dip the port rail under very little water will go down the vent as 1) the vent hole is small, 2) there is a negative pressure situation.
Has anyone moved the vent and found the odor issue was reduced?
I certainly DON'T understand the physics of the suggestion to add a second vent? This is a more or less closed system. The only time foul air is actually pumped out is when the head is flushed. Otherwise very little air is coming out of that vent unless you put your nose up to it and sniff. The reverse occurs when we pump out -- air is pulled into the tank through the vent to allow the waste to come out. Adding another vent will have zero, ZERO effect on the system, unless my understanding of physics has suddenly gone with the wind...
Kevin Lenard
"Firefly"
'91 C-36 Mk. "1.5" Tall Rig, Fin Keel, Hull #1120, Universal M-35 original (not "A" or "B")
CBYC, Scarborough, Lake Ontario, Canada
The only times I smell an odor coming from my head is if I do not use the head for a long time. Then the odor I smell is from the decaying organisems in the sea water trapped in the inlet hose. Once I flush the head a second time there is no odor. What I usually do if I am taking out folks on my boat, especially women, I flush the head before they arrive to get the smell out. Then life is good again.
__/)__/)__/)__Capt Mike__/)__/)__/)__
Punta Gorda Florida
1990 Std WK M35 Hull #1050
We have no real odor problems since we read Peggy's book and started using Raritan KO to setup a beneficial culture in our holding tank. We use no other chemicals or deodorants to mess with our culture. We add mor KO at each pump out. We only clean the toilet with Raritan CP. works great.
John Parsons
"Water Music" 1999 Catalina 36 Mk II - Hull 1771
Tall Rig, Fin Keel
Bay City, MI, USA