I have a roller furling unit where a (or more) set screws have worked out. This is causing the headsail to get hung up as I raise/lower.
I just bought an ATN Mast Climber. I understand how to use it when working on the mast. Here is my plan for the forestay - looking for guidance.
I plan on fixing my main halyard to a cleat at the bow and winching it tight. I will use a line attached to my chair looped around the forestay to keep me close to the stay.
Open to other approaches.
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Tim Farrell
S.V. Kailua
C36 - 1986
Hull# CTY0678A886
Go to the top in a chair, belt around forestay, lower to working height
Carl Wehe
1985 C36TM #443
Hillsboro Inlet,FL
I am not sure why you have to climb at all. If you have a roller furling you should be able to remove the head sail. This will lower the attachments that is at the top and you can make the needed repair.
I had an issue with mine where I could not roll the furled when I was ready. The Jib halyard would rotate with it and get hung up. I had no choice but to lower the jib then get back to the marina. It turned out that it was not installed properly. The instructions clearly explains that the drum has to be as high as possible to avoid over-wrap.
Haro Bayandorian, 1999 C36 MKII, Sail La Vie #1787, M35B,
Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA.
Tim, it sounds as if the set screw(s) that have backed out are way above being able to reach from standing on the pulpit. When we had our ProFurl installed many years ago, we had the same problem with one set screw, but the rigger was able to reach it by standing on the pulpit, just dumb luck I guess. Dumb - 'cuz it was the rigger's own fault, when he said "Whoever put these in didn't use locktite." He'd forgotten that it was him who did the work! I almost pushed him off the pulpit, but figured that wasn't going to get it fixed!
Have you checked which ones and how high they are with your binoculars? It's possible that if left too long being backed out you might have foil "issues" which is precluding you dropping your jib. In that case, you'd most likely be better off dropping the drum and foil and doing the work on the dock. Good luck.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
The sail is down. I had a rigger come out in Jan when I realized I couldn't lower it (it was stuck 50% down in crazy winds). When they got it down, they raised the job spindle to the top of the mast and tied it off. No way to get it down - but to go up and get it!
Stu is right - the set screws half way up were protruding. I went up yesterday, using my new ATN Mast Climber for the first time. It was fairly easy once I got used to the system. I decided to fix the Main halyard to a bow cleat and ascend that. I used a light piece of line to keep myself close to the forestay.
As I went up, I check each set screw location. The lower ones were very tight. But all the high ones were loose! I used locktite on all, especially on the two that were protruding that fowled the spindle of the jib halyard.
When I reached the top I was able to retrieve it and slide it down from the top (with no issue). I also was able to inspect all the hardware at the top. I learned that next time I go up, I will replace the spinaker block.
All in all, I recommend the ATN Mast Climber. Easy to use, once you get the hang of it. I took a few pics from the top. Will post them here when I get them off my phone.
Thanks for the advice.
Tim Farrell
S.V. Kailua
C36 - 1986
Hull# CTY0678A886
As promised, a pic from aloft. The quality is bad because I had to shrink it to be under the acceptable file size for the forum.
Thanks for the advice.
Tim Farrell
S.V. Kailua
C36 - 1986
Hull# CTY0678A886