There's this option: [url]http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/80457594[/url]

and Reply #16: [url]http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?10244-M25XP-Air...

For those who still have that after thought of a factory filter, especially with a high amp alternator, get rid of it.... They don't stop belt dust, they rattle, get loose and are basically a cheap excuse for a "filter"..

The K&N filters, as seen below, are a far better filter and allow the high capacity air flow that a diesel needs. The one below fits an M-25 but K&N has many to offer. Just measure the OD of your intake then go to the K&N site and find one that works...

The automotive, dirt bike, rally car, dune buggy, race car etc. markets are far more abusive to an air filter than a marine engine. Marine engines treat filters quite easy, except for belt dust, which a K&N actually stops & captures......

M-25

[IMG]http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/143947421.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/143947418.jpg[/IMG]

If you stick with the foamie thing you can just order it through any Universal/Westerbeke dealer, that's where I got mine.

[url]http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&produ...

But I agree with Maine Sail - K&N solution is much better!

I raced dirt bikes until a few years ago and used K&N filters exclusively. They'd be coated with dirt, dust, sand, leaves and even water and nothing ever got through. So they should handle the nice clean environment that a marine engine lives in just fine.

I bought the newer Universal air filter when we got our boat in 1998. The foam outside "filter" can be purchased at an auto store for a lot less: NAPA, #7-02278 Pre-filter, replaces Briggs & Stratton 270782, 271794, pre-filter for 7-02210. If you don't go to the K&N.

I have to agree with Maine Sail. I have been running a K&N filter since 03 but a different style and have not looked back.

Thanks Mainsail I have been using a KN on my airplane for about 6 years and love the way it works and is easy to clean and recharge

[quote=mutualfun;15132]I have to agree with Maine Sail. I have been running a K&N filter sense 03 but a different style and have not looked back.[/quote]

Randy, do you have a model number or anything for the filter you have? Did get one to fit inside the original air filter holder or does it just clamp onto the intake manifold?

Guess I'll get the K&N also. I just replaced my foamy filter. It too had alot of oil on it.

Maine Sail,
Does this filter screw on, or is it merely held on with the hose clamp? I'm asking because I purchased one and it has threads inside of the filter. I haven't taken the old one off yet, and was just wondering.

Robert Perkins
Andante #450
Cleveland, OH

K&N make great filters though in the environment our engines operate they may be overkill as we seldom see much dust or dirt other than rubber belt dust.
The filter can reduce the noise considerably, did you notice any change with the K&N? Baffled canisters are used on many newer engines to limit noise.

I also see no picture or reference to the crankcase breather, what was used on your K&N installation.

Bud, we leave Mich to head to the boat sunday morning. Give me a few days and I will get ylu the info and some pics of the one I have on our boat. Our season is just starting.

[QUOTE=mutualfun;15228]Bud, we leave Mich to head to the boat sunday morning. Give me a few days and I will get ylu the info and some pics of the one I have on our boat. Our season is just starting.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Randy, it is that time for me too.

Sam,

Thank you for the pictures, it makes me wonder if this canister type housing would fit on my M25XP. I would think it could reduce noise better than the open foam filter on my engine. The mechanical noise from the engine is fairly low, much of the sound comes directly from the air intake. It is quite dramatic how much just the foam element cuts down the engine noise, the extra baffle effect of yours should be more effective at reducing this racket and even give the ability to put a hose on the inlet to route the intake to a more remote location like under the aft berth to quiet things further.

With a paper element and the breather hose being held in the inlet, I may have a concern of this clogging the paper element, my foam element gets quite moist with oil from the breather. I have considered putting a fitting in the bottom of the filter canister to vent the fumes in downstream of the filter. If you did this it would eliminate the risk of plugging up the paper element with oil.

Steve

Steve,
In reply to your question about where to plumb the crankcase breather hose to, I asked a U/W service tech that question many years ago. I told him I was tired of cleaning or replacing the foam filter element. He told me that I should drill and tap a nipple fitting on the intake manifold, completely bypassing the filter. He said the minute quantities of oil vapor from the crankcase would be sucked into the combustion chamber and burned with the diesel fuel. He also cautioned me about getting ANYTHING foreign into the engine, and suggested taking the intake manifold off the engine to drill and tap it. I did just that. I think the right angle nipple was less than $1. The intake manifold is cast aluminum, so it is very easy to drill and tap. Vaccuum the top of the engine, take off the intake manifold, and plug the holes with clean rags. Drill, tap, and re-install. Route a hose from the crankcase vent to the manifold, and you are done. Never had a problem with dirty air filters again. Somewhere on this site (most likely in the link to Julandra projects) are a few pictures.

Sorry about being a a bit late but here are a few pictures of the K&N filter we use. The Number is on the picture if you care to google it.

[QUOTE=TomSoko;15303]Steve,
In reply to your question about where to plumb the crankcase breather hose to, I asked a U/W service tech that question many years ago. I told him I was tired of cleaning or replacing the foam filter element. He told me that I should drill and tap a nipple fitting on the intake manifold, completely bypassing the filter. He said the minute quantities of oil vapor from the crankcase would be sucked into the combustion chamber and burned with the diesel fuel. He also cautioned me about getting ANYTHING foreign into the engine, and suggested taking the intake manifold off the engine to drill and tap it. I did just that. I think the right angle nipple was less than $1. The intake manifold is cast aluminum, so it is very easy to drill and tap. Vaccuum the top of the engine, take off the intake manifold, and plug the holes with clean rags. Drill, tap, and re-install. Route a hose from the crankcase vent to the manifold, and you are done. Never had a problem with dirty air filters again. Somewhere on this site (most likely in the link to Julandra projects) are a few pictures.[/QUOTE]

This was discussed on a prior thread. I replied then that I would not personally do that; I'm actually surprised that Westerbeke/Universal would recommend it. If for any reason oil gets blown out of the overflow, it would get routed right into the intake of the engine; and you'd have a runaway engine with no way to stop it and no way to limit the rpms. Maybe a slim chance of that happening, but I'd prefer a zero chance.