While sailing my boat to her new home, I noticed that my roller furling jib was extremely hard to roll back up. I had read that a jib halyard that is too tight or too loose can cause the problem. But I pulled down the jib, replaced the UV strip, put it back up correctly, and it is still just as difficult to roll up, so I know that is not the problem. Does anybody have any suggestions on what to check next?
All the best--JAS
—
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
When you had the sail off the furler, did you check how the top swivel and the bottom drum rotated? They should rotate very freely.
Also, if you have excessive sag in your headstay, that can make the furler hard to turn with any wind in the sail.
Just 2 things to consider.
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/
One other thing is to flush the bearings on the drum. There's usually a port there somewhere that you can put a hose stream of water on to flush it out. That can make a big difference, speaking from personal experience on our prior boat.
.
My boat had a tough-to-turn roller furler when I bought it.
Turned out to be the lower bearings were shot.
New bearing lower unit cost only $150 and fixed it perfectly.
Check your lower bearings for easy hand turning.
.
Captain Rick Powers
(USCG OUPV)
1999 Catalina 36 mk II
Hull#1745
Std Rig, Fin Keel
Palo Alto, California
San Francisco Bay
It would help to know what kind of furler is on your boat. Catalina seems to have used Hood and Scheffer, but many have been retrofitted since the left the factory with Harken, Profurl, Furlex etc.
Harken uses polymer bearings that only need to be rinsed occasionallly and don't need lubrication but they can be deformed by pressure over time and need replacement. Profurl uses "sealed" bearings that need "zero" maintenance. However, experience shows nothing is sealed forever in a marine environment and the seal bearigs will eventually leak and sieze. Replacing the sealed bearing will have you back in business.
Not sure what the specifc issue might be with other brands.
Bill Boggs
s/v Palmetto Moon
1991 C36, Hull 1128
Herrington Harbor South
Chesapeake Bay
If you have a Schaefer furler, they know they had a bad design which did not allow for flushing the lower unit. The bearings get gummed up with salt water spray.
They have since come out with a retrofit with a flush hole in the drum that can, and should be, flushed regularly with clean water (as someone above mentioned). I, and at least 2 others I know of, had this exact same problem on Catalinas and replacing the bearing drum solved the problem. As was mentioned, it was about $150. Make sure you have the model number of your unit if you call them (508-995-4882) as there are differences.
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
[QUOTE=pierview;16545]If you have a Schaefer furler, they know they had a bad design which did not allow for flushing the lower unit. The bearings get gummed up with salt water spray.
They have since come out with a retrofit with a flush hole in the drum that can, and should be, flushed regularly with clean water (as someone above mentioned). I, and at least 2 others I know of, had this exact same problem on Catalinas and replacing the bearing drum solved the problem. As was mentioned, it was about $150. Make sure you have the model number of your unit if you call them (508-995-4882) as there are differences.[/QUOTE]
That's correct - I think the change on the Schaeffer's was about 2001; my boat's a '99 and does not have the flush ports on the lower drum - so far no problems, thankfully.
---- Howard & Linda Matwick ----
--- S/V "Silhouette" - Nanaimo, BC ----
--- 1999 C36 MkII #1776 M35BC ---
Just curious, for those of us who want to do this thing on the cheap, couldn't we just drill our own cleanout port? The reason why I ask is because my 1993 C36 came with the Shaefer 2000. It has the same lack of washout port, but costs $600 to upgrade, which is approx. four times more expensive than the 2100 upgrade!
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
Well, if you already have the problem with the furler, the bearings are already a problem so you'd probably need to do the replacement rather than juust drilling a hole and flushing. I don't know what drilling a hole might do to the structural strength of the part.
As to the replacement cost, I know the drum I replaced costs about $300 or so but Schaefer was selling the replacement part at $150 because they knew it was a problem with the original design. Is the price you quoted from Schaefer or an off-the-shelf part replacment?
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Hey Chuck,
The way it was described to me is the 2000 requires more parts, and therefore costs more. I will call Shaefer back to find out exaxtly why.
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
Joel...
Wiithout being on the boat to double check, I'm about 99% sure I have the 2100 and I do know it was at the $150 range because I remember being surprised it wasn't more.
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Joel; When you do, please share the info and the latest cost. Thanks
---- Howard & Linda Matwick ----
--- S/V "Silhouette" - Nanaimo, BC ----
--- 1999 C36 MkII #1776 M35BC ---