Retro Alternator Bracket...

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chs1517
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Retro Alternator Bracket...

I took on the installation of the alternator bracket yesterday. I purchased the kit from Catalina Direct. All of the parts that are needed for the installation come with the kit. I noted while researching this process there had been some problems in the past with SAE vs. Metric being an issue. Evidently this issue has been resolved with the current kit.

The install is pretty straight forward however I found you need to be at least a backyard mechanic or better and have a little luck in removing bolts that have been on the engine for a long time. PB blaster is a great penetrating oil but it doesn't work that well on frozen bolts.

After twisting off the head of the bolt that secures the original alternator bracket to the engine block I figured it was time to contact a good marine mechanic I know. I had visions of twisting off the studs that hold the exhaust manifold to the engine block. I didn't want this somewhat expensive retrofit to become a real expensive retrofit! I lucked out and he was at my boat within an hour. While he was
en route I did all of the busy work; drained the radiator fluid, removed all of the hoses and removed the exhaust manifold. I did luck out with this last task. After removing the stud nuts the manifold slid off with little effort.

Unfortunately the four stock studs that run from the engine block through the exhaust manifold were not long enough to secure the retro bracket on the outside of the manifold (Note: Evidently on some engines the studs might be long enough. If you look at the nuts on the port side of the exhaust manifold and they are pretty flush with the manifold you will need to install the retro studs). The four studs that come with the kit are longer to allow room for the bracket. The only way you can replace the studs is by removing the exhaust manifold. When the mechanic arrived all was ready for him to do his job.

The four studs broke free and were replaced with the new studs. A pair of vice grips did the job.

After the four new studs were installed the exhaust manifold is next and then the new alternator bracket. The kit comes with a new hose that attaches under the fluid pump and a copper elbow that allows for the right turn back towards the heat exchanger.

With the help of the mechanic it took just a little under two hours to remove the old alternator bracket, replace the studs, exhaust manifold, install the alternator, hoses and replace the radiator fluid. A quick burp for the engine and it was up and running.

After all was said and done I know I could have gotten the job done especially after watching the mechanic easily remove the studs and old bracket. Having said that, once I twisted off the bolt head all I could see was frustrations, carnage and fleeing dollars. It was money well spent.

Chris Stewart
S/V "24~7"
1984 Catalina 36 Tall
Hull #251 M25
(SF Bay) Alameda, CA

stu jackson c34's picture
stu jackson c34
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Nicely done, Chris. Only comment: on a friend's Ericson 32 (same M25 engine) I removed the studs without having to remove the exhaust manifold, but now, at least, you know how to do that, too! :D

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

Maine Sail
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Joined: 2/26/10
Posts: 324

Chris,

Please be aware that the long alternator 3/8" bolt that comes with the kit is most often the WRONG size. It is much to sloppy a fit in the bracket. The hole in the bracket works MUCH better with a metric bolt. I replace it with a metric bolt and occasionally need to then drill the alt to the proper fit. The problem is the Motorola alts shipped in both metric and US sizes over the years. The upgrade bracket is drilled for metric but Westerbeke ships a 3/8" bolt.. I just did another one of these last week and will try and find the bit I used on the alt.. Belt issues with the new bracket are often due to the sloppy incorrect bolt Westerbeke supplies. It allows the alternator to "cock off" and create uneven belt wear.

Also the new bracket has oval holes for a reason, but every one I have seen installed has never taken advantage of them. You may not need to but you really should align the bracket fore/aft on the motor so the belt is in proper alignment.. This may mean spacer washers under the thermostat end of the mount. The one I just did required two metric washers to shim it forward..

[B]Sloppy Fitting Westerbeke Bolt[/B]
[IMG]http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/141029501.jpg[/IMG]

[B]A much better fit:[/B]
[IMG]http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/141029500.jpg[/IMG]

[B]New bolt on left, Westerbeke supplied "sloppy" bolt on right:[/B]
[IMG]http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/141029502.jpg[/IMG]

-Maine Sail
https://www.marinehowto.com/

 

Maine Sail
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Posts: 324

[FONT="Arial Black"][SIZE="4"]C'mon guys the 4 image limit is a little restrictive......:mad: I thought this was going to be fixed a while ago????[/SIZE][/FONT]

[B]Forward Align[/B]
[IMG]http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/141029503.jpg[/IMG]

[B]If you forward align place shim washers in the space:[/B]
[IMG]http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/141029508.jpg[/IMG]

[B]Aft Align:[/B]
[IMG]http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/141029505.jpg[/IMG]

-Maine Sail
https://www.marinehowto.com/

 

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chs1517
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Posts: 113

Maine Sail,

Thanks for the great info. I didn't notice the slop in the alternator bolt or the possible misalignment of the belt due to the brackets position. Next time I'm at the boat I will check them out and fix if necessary.

Chris

Chris Stewart
S/V "24~7"
1984 Catalina 36 Tall
Hull #251 M25
(SF Bay) Alameda, CA

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stu jackson c34
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Posts: 1270

It's an M10 bolt, either 100 or 125 mm long (I'll check it out next time I'm at the boat). I found them at a well stocked ACE Hardware store. If you push down on your alternator belt, and you have the thinner SAE bolt, you can see the alternator wiggle. Not good.

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

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