I did that job to our M35A last fall. I bought bulk lengths of Shields marine wire wound rad hose and cut them to length. I bought bulk hose in all the various inside diameters I needed and I bought enough to do the job twice, so I have a full set of new spares as well. I got all this from the Universal distributor up here, he told me they never use the Universal parts they just use bulk hose. It was pretty easy to install, the wire has to be cut when you cut the hose to length, I used a hack saw to cut the hose and side cutters to cut the wire.

The only thing I had trouble getting was the two small bypass hoses, they are 3/8" and I could not find that anywhere. The distributor told me to use fuel hose, that is what they use. I checked the specs for the fuel hose they sent me and it can handle far more heat than the engine puts out and is anti-freeze safe, so I used that.

I also had a new rad neck soldered into the exhaust manifold as the existing one was weeping antifreeze out. Usually, after the freeze/thaw cycles all winter there's at least a pint of anti-freeze in the bilge from leaking hose ends and the old leaky rad neck. Was down to the boat yesterday and for the first time ever there was no anti-freeze in the bilge so I consider this a success (so far).

I get the alternator belt from Grainger, the original is just a Dayco TopCog belt #15400 or #15410 and it is half the price that Universal charges. I find that is the best belt to use, I have tried the Gates VX models which are cogged on the pulley side and with a big alternator they wear out quickly, I've had two of them actually break with less than 25 hours on them. The Dayco units take about 10 hours to break in and stop shedding rubber dust, then they just run and run. I usually change them at 100 hours and have never had a problem with them.

I use Baldwin B179 oil filters. Top quality and again, less money than Universal wants for theirs. Also available at Grainger.

Apologies for resurrecting a 2 year old thread, but I'm about to tackle this job, along with the water heater hoses, and found it with a forum search.

The only Shields Marine wire hose I find is Shieldsflex II Marine Water and Exhaust Hose at Jamestown Distributors
[url]http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=578&...

I'd searched for heater hose at NAPA and they don't list wire reinforced heater hose, only fabric reinforced. However, their hose is pressure rated, 250lbs; I don't find a pressure rating for the Shields hose and, since it's exhaust hose, I'm concerned that it isn't designed to handle the pressure of the engine's closed fresh water system. Opinions welcome.

Also, does anyone know the length of 7/8" heater hose needed to change out the water heater hoses on a MKII??? Since this stuff is expensive, I'd prefer not to guess.

Thanks for any insights.

Gary,
I'm pretty sure you can use radiator/heater hose for the loop for the water heater. Wire reinforced hose is called for when there is suction involved, such as on the suction side of a pump. Depending on the "radiator" cap you have, the pressure in the cooling system is 7-14 psi, which the heater hose can easily handle.

Like Tom Said. As it is not suction. No need for the wire core. I changed out all of our non suction hoses last fall and went to silcone hoses. I was lucky enough to get a deal on what I needed. Before I did it I researched it out and they better then what wad recommend. Plus it was much easier running the new hose.

I am also in the process of replacing our hoses on our '98. Some of them are shaped, such as the one from the heat exchanger,with 2 bends at the heat exchanger, that then wraps around the engine to the fitting for the coolant pump, where it has a 90 degree bend. There is another hose from the thermostat to the manifold that has 2 slight bends. Are the preshaped hoses necessary? I am concerned about the 90 degree turn.

David S. Power
Two If By Sea #1687

David, what engine? On our M25, the hose from the freshwater coolant pump is a special hose which goes from 1" at the top to the 7/8" copper elbow under the alternator and back to the HX. That special black 90 degree elbow costs $42 at Universal, but any good auto store will have the same hose from a Toyota for $11!!! Bending hoses is not a good idea, so if you need to buy 90 degree (copper) elbows where necessary.

Stu - I have the M35B. I do have the hose you mentioned. It goes onto a fitting that goes to the long hse that bends 90 degrees around the engine and then back to the heat exchanger. I've talked with the local Universal outlet and can get pretty good prices on the preshaped hoses and think I will go that route, instead of trying to make over-the-counter hoses work.

David S. Power
Two If By Sea #1687