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Removing trim in galley

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Sroyj
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Removing trim in galley

Has anyone ever removed the trim in the picture?  Does anyone know if it's screwed or nailed, or have advice the best way to get it off in one piece?  Thanks!
 

Roy
S/V Godspeed
Port of New Bedford
Catalina 36 MKI
1983 ~ Hull #62
Standard Rig, Fin Keel

GaryB
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Can't answer your question directly, but I had an 1984 Catalina 30 and pretty much have found similar construction on my Cat 36. Look for screws. either covered with a wood bung or on a cleat from the inside. Although I had never seen a cabinet similar to yours and it could have been fabricated by a PO. So it could be glued and nailed. Good luck!

Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: East Boothbay, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine

Sroyj
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Thanks Gary.  There are small spots that were filled.  It looks like small nails.  I'm going to start with trying to gently prying them off.  Doing the counter tops will be a lot easier with those out of the way.

Roy
S/V Godspeed
Port of New Bedford
Catalina 36 MKI
1983 ~ Hull #62
Standard Rig, Fin Keel

Mikeg516
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I plan to do something with my countertops. My plan is to cover with epoxy based paint. I'll be curious to see how yours goes.
Mike Grennan
​Sea Cliff
Catalina 36
1983 / Hull 129
 

 

Sroyj
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The new Formica on the chart table came out great, so I'm very optimistic.  I'll post pictures of the galley when it's done.

Roy
S/V Godspeed
Port of New Bedford
Catalina 36 MKI
1983 ~ Hull #62
Standard Rig, Fin Keel

LeslieTroyer
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GaryB wrote:
Although I had never seen a cabinet similar to yours and it could have been fabricated by a PO. So it could be glued and nailed. Good luck!

I have the same cabinetry sans paper towel holder - so it is probably standard - at least on the first 100 or so boats built.

Les

Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo 
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094

bakerha
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Would love to hear how you replaced the top on your nav station. Mine is original and has many unsightly holes from various mounted equipment through the years. Did you remove the trim fiddle boards?

_____________
Harold Baker
S/V Lucky Duck
Sandusky Ohio, Great Lakes
1989 C-36 mkI TR/WK M25XP

Sroyj
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I didn't replace the top, but put new Formica over the old. I did pull the fiddles and took the lid off.  I cleaned everything up, glued (contact cement) the Formica, routed the edges, oiled up the fiddles and put 7 coats of urethane, and put it all back together.  Really happy with the result.  The locker by the head is still dark brown, I'll do that in white as well, then the new granite-looking Formica in the galley with all the trim done as I did with the nav desk. 

Roy
S/V Godspeed
Port of New Bedford
Catalina 36 MKI
1983 ~ Hull #62
Standard Rig, Fin Keel

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GaryB
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Nice job on the chart table!

Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: East Boothbay, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine

Sroyj
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Thank you.

Roy
S/V Godspeed
Port of New Bedford
Catalina 36 MKI
1983 ~ Hull #62
Standard Rig, Fin Keel

Sroyj
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So, that trim was held on by staples.  I put a block of wood behind them and tapped with a hammer and they came off pretty easily.

Roy
S/V Godspeed
Port of New Bedford
Catalina 36 MKI
1983 ~ Hull #62
Standard Rig, Fin Keel

GaryB
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Good to know, that is what makes this site useful and actually wonderful, when we share our knowledge.Thank you!

Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: East Boothbay, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine

bakerha
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Yes - great job - looks really good!  So the fiddles on the nav station (including the curved corner were nailed in place? I think I'll give that a shot this spring. I was terrified at the thought of breaking the fiddles and having to replace or patch them together. Did you consider stripping the old formica? Probably not worth the extra effort.
Thanks Again!
 

_____________
Harold Baker
S/V Lucky Duck
Sandusky Ohio, Great Lakes
1989 C-36 mkI TR/WK M25XP

tgrover
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Harold, you might want to double check for signs of wood plugs that cover the screws that hold the fiddles on before you start in with the hammer and block. I had ours apart last year and they were screwed in place. Our C36 is a 1989 model too.

Tom & Janis Grover

C36 #0949
SR/WK, M25XP
Midland, ON

Sroyj
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No.  The pieces that were stapled were in the galley running vertically behind the stove.  The fiddles (trim that's around the counter top, dinette table, chart table, 'game' table, etc., are all held in with screws that are located behind 3/8" wooden plugs.  They can be a little bit of a pain to remove, but not too bad with a little patience.  Once out you'll see the phillips screws behind them.  Mine were stuck a little beyond removing the screws and needed a little tapping from a rubber mallet.  Replacement plugs can be found on Amazon.  I think they're a few dollars for a bag of 20.   I did not consider trying to strip the old Formica.  I think that would have been a real pain and was not necessary.  The chart table was a fun project for this beginner and was done in a little over a week spending just a little time here and there during that time.  If you decide to do it and have more questions, feel free to ask.

Roy
S/V Godspeed
Port of New Bedford
Catalina 36 MKI
1983 ~ Hull #62
Standard Rig, Fin Keel

bakerha
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Tom and Roy - thanks for the post. Now that I think about it - I do remember seeing plugs on that trim so I will plan on dealing with that too. If you have any tricks for cleaning removing the plugs I would appreciate that info.  I had mixed results the last time I did that task.

_____________
Harold Baker
S/V Lucky Duck
Sandusky Ohio, Great Lakes
1989 C-36 mkI TR/WK M25XP

Sroyj
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I've had mixed results with the following.  Take a small drill bit, maybe 3/32" and drill a hole at the middle of the plug.  Get a small wood screw, slightly larger than the hole and at least 1/2" long.  Screw that into the hole.  The screw will bottom out on the screw that's behind the plug and drive the plug out.  Some of mine came out cleanly this way, most broke apart in the process.  I used a small jeweler's screw driver and a small hammer to remove/chisel out just enough of what was remaining to get to the underlying screw.  When you remove that screw, it will push out most of what was left of the plug.  To clean up the hole prior to installing the new plug I hit it quickly with a 3/8" drill bit and the new plugs went in beautifully.  Good luck.

Roy
S/V Godspeed
Port of New Bedford
Catalina 36 MKI
1983 ~ Hull #62
Standard Rig, Fin Keel

KevinLenard
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Removing the bungs (wooden screw hole plugs) is especially tricky because they are either glued in, or the varnish has glued them in, or they were hammered in, or all three.  Using a screw to try to pull them out doesn't work cleanly.  The cleanest way to remove them in my experience is by buying the exact size of WOOD drill bit (has a fine point on the tip of the bit) and carefully A) centering the bit exactly in the middle and then B) only going far enough in to remove most of the bung without breaking the bit point in the buried screw.  Then use a fine point screwdriver or chisel to remove the remaining bits of the bung. 
To put the new ones back in, remember to line up the grain exactly and try to color match because it will show up, use brown colored wood glue, tap it it and VERY carefully use a wider RAZOR SHARP chisel to start shearing the excess a bit on both sides with the grain to try to minimize the risk that the shearing will follow the grain dipping into the screw hole and thus being left with a bung that has broken off under the level of the wood surface around it.  I have actually started using the Dremel under-cut tool to cut the bungs off and then filing and sanding to bring it down to level as too many bungs break off under the surface level and using filler defeats the purpose of using bungs that match the surrounding wood.
 

Kevin Lenard & Svieta Gutnik
"Firefly (Светлячок: Svetlyachok)"
'91 C-36 Tall Rig, Hull #1120, Universal M-35a
CBYC, Scarborough, Ontario, Canada

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