I have a VW1500 I installed a couple years ago. Mounted horizontally, btw. When retrieving the rode on the drum, I usually kneel and tail the rode forward into the anchor locker. Once the chain comes over the bow, the boat is usually moving forward fast enough to give me some slack, while changing over to the chain wheel.

Just had to do this this morning as the wind was too strong to retrieve the rode by hand, and I was single handed. I plan to go to a mostly chain rode, which will keep me from having to deal with the rope rode most of the time (unless anchored in much deeper water than I usually am).

Whimsea,

Our 1999 model has the Maxwell 800 using a chain/rope splice. I like it except that the expensive plastic piece that holds the rope against the gypsy to allow retrieval breaks at least once a year.

I never let the windlass or the anchor roller take the strain of the anchor rode except while setting the anchor. After paying out the desired scope, I kneel on the bow, lean down, and grab the nylon rode from in front of the bow roller and secure it to the starboard bow cleat. My PO installed some rounded metal chafe guards where the rode would lie under load so that it doesn't chafe the fiberglass.

In the rare event that I am not using all 80 feet of chain, plus about 10 feet of the nylon as a snubber, I add a dedicated snubber (1/2 inch nylon with a chain hook) and attach that to the same bow cleat.

Hi Duane

Could you post a few photos of the installation?

Regards
Andres

[QUOTE=andreshs1;20138]Hi Duane

Could you post a few photos of the installation?

Regards
Andres[/QUOTE]

Sure, Andres. It might take a day or two.

Not to divert this post - I am also working on this problem of raising the anchor.
I added two relays inside the V-birth to forward and reverse the windlass motor and using a wired remote switch I can walk over to the bow or be in the cockpit and control the motor - a poor man's remote control. It does work well. However the other problem that I have is that when the anchor clears the anchor roller it rubs against the furler drum. It may damage the drum so I have to make hand adjustment and lay the anchor down. Do you have this problem? How do you handle this? Also I never use the windlass drum - how is this supposed to be used. I have the windlass manual - but it does not mention the use of this drum.

Nov 30-2013
I have added an Image (rightmost image) here of a bracket to the anchor roller to save the furler when raising the anchor. It works well. My anchor is 44lb Bruce. I have a video of it but it can not be uploaded to C36. Can the administrator add this module to Drupal? More later.

Haro, first, I cannot dream of having the windlass pull the anchor onto the roller. It will jam every time, but that may be because I have a larger than typical anchor (45 lb Delta).

Even pulling it up the last few feet by hand I have to go to some effort to get the shank past the drum.

When I had some rigging work done 9 years ago, the rigger didn't realize that there was a wire pendant raising the tack of the headsail a few feet. He said if he had known that, he would have recommended changing the furler toggle to raise the drum up to give more clearance for the anchor.

That may still be an option for those not using deck-sweeper sails.

Haro or some other member,

Could you scan the Maxwell 800 manual and submit it for the C36ia reference library...

My boat is the same year and the windlass manual was not with the boat.

If someone could send me the manual via an email attachment I'd appreciate it.

By the way.... Harbor Freight has a wireless remote control for their large winches (think off road vehicles).... Ok so whats the difference between a 4x4 winch and a boat windlass?.....Answer nothing but the vehicle its mounted on.

This remote kit is less than $30... Harbor Freight doesn't supply wiring info to use on a windlass but I contacted them and they told me what each wire coming out of the reciever was communicating... If you want it, send me an email....Part of the reason I'd like the manual for the windlass.

Mark I have the manual in PDF format. I just sent you a Private message. I can not place it here since it is too large.

Mark - please find below a link to Harbour Freight remote control for $ 29.99 as you mentioned. Your question is what is the difference. There is not much specs listed - however looking at the photo - the wire can not handle the 80 AMPS required to drive the Windlass motor. So 2 external Relays are needed and 3 heavy duty cables are also needed. Otherwise it appears to be a good choice - it is a good find. I will check it out tomorrow.

Windlass Remote control:

[url]http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/winches/wireless-winc...

You absolutely need all the relays with the wireless remote that you need with the wired remote, you are just activating them with out the wire... I've heard the Maxwell wireless remote is over $200, $30 seems like it is worth the try.

Again I have the pinouts for the reciever to operate the relays correctly relative to the nomenclature on the remote.

Mark

[QUOTE=andreshs1;20138]Hi Duane

Could you post a few photos of the installation?

Regards
Andres[/QUOTE]

Here is the windlass as seen from above. I am sorry but I am not taking off the teak access panel in the V-berth to show it from below. It is a lot of work and the V-berth is currently not very accessible.

Hope this helps.

If it helps anyone - I have added 3 more images on my post number 6 above. It showes the panel before and after removal. I only had to remove 6 screws. The upper crown does not need to be removed. I removed it not knowing that it was not needed.

[QUOTE=baysailor2000;20169]If it helps anyone - I have added 3 more images on my post number 6 above. It showes the panel before and after removal. I only had to remove 6 screws. The upper crown does not need to be removed. I removed it not knowing that it was not needed.[/QUOTE]

That was nice of you, Haro. My situation is a bit different as I have modified that area to add additional storage, so it is not as simple to remove. Also, we have the entire volume of the V-berth full right now as I am working on the boat. Glad you could help Andres out further.

Hi there

Thanks Haro for the photos, but for now I am going to continue building on the current 'remote' setup (the wife)....

Duane

Great idea that splitting of the compartment and front water hose

Cheers

Andres, I give credit to the PO (previous owner) for that.

The wash-down pump takes raw water from the intake to the head and gives me good pressure wash off the mud that we often have to anchor in. Once the anchor sets, it isn't going anywhere, but it sure is messy on the chain and anchor.

Thus, of it takes raw water, do you have an electric pump?:confused:

[QUOTE=andreshs1;20201]Thus, of it takes raw water, do you have an electric pump?:confused:[/QUOTE]

Andres, just add the word 'electric' to my sentence and it makes sense. When the pump is energized by closing a switch near the windlass switch, the pump pressurizes the hose (just like a freshwater pump for your onboard tankage). When you open the spray nozzle, the pump keeps running until you close the nozzle.

My pump is located under the V-berth with close access to the head intake hose and the anchor locker.

This is going to my wish-list for next hear

Thanks!!

I posted a new photo on post number #6. Please view the bracket and the explanation. It works as intended.
I welcome any suggestions or improvements. By the way I am looking for someone that can bend the steel bracket for me. If you have a machine shop and can bend this 1/8" stainless steel bracket - I am looking for you.

Mark,
The manual for the VW800 (and just about every other manual related to the C36 and C375) is on the Tech Notes CD.