Rob,

The only DC electrical circuits in my head are for the shower sump and the fluorescent light fixture. When I installed my Jabsco electric conversion (an electric motor to pump/macerate, rather than the hand piston pump), I had to run #8AWG wire with its own fuse to handle the 25A surge of current.

I see that Raritan recommends #8AWG for a 20 foot round trip length of wire. so you will need to run new wire and install a fuse.

Rob.. I installed a Raritan electric head also... not sure of the exact model as it's been a few years but the wires to the head are too small as Duane says. They recommend 8 gauge but you can use 10 (which is cheaper), but not cheap. The draw on the cable is only for a short time as you flush so the lighter cable is OK.

I found the cost of the cable was almost as much as the head unit itself.

I can't remember who posted it, but somewhere in the files there is a complete (and I mean complete) description, with pictures, on doing this upgrade.

[QUOTE=pierview;21061]They recommend 8 gauge but you can use 10 (which is cheaper), but not cheap. The draw on the cable is only for a short time as you flush so the lighter cable is OK.[/QUOTE]

FWIW, I agree with Chuck that for the short time the head uses the current, the #10AWG should be fine.

Is there a problem with running this off of the shower sump circuit, given that it is unlikely that one would use both at the same time?

[QUOTE=FlyMeAway;21064]Is there a problem with running this off of the shower sump circuit, given that it is unlikely that one would use both at the same time?[/QUOTE]

What gauge wiring does the sump circuit have? Mine looked to be pretty light. It would be a shame to start an electrical fire on your boat because you tried to use a wire that wasn't meant to carry the current.

I've also been thinking of a Raritan Marine Elegance... Looks like a great option, and a serious upgrade from the manual I have now.

Would love to see photos and hear reviews when the project is complete!

Here's a DC wire capacity chart. See the column for 25 amps.

[url]http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_sele...

Rob --

If you haven't actually purchased it yet, Defender has the top-of-the-line (well, minus the optional bidet) version of this head for $900 (well under the $1k you mention) that allows for both raw and fresh water flush, as well as has the high-end control panel. Overall, Defender's prices on these heads are outstanding.

I've been thinking about it for a while and following this thread over at another forum: [url]http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f124/raritan-elegance-77821.html[/url]

One of the guys there (who runs Hopkins-Carter Marine Miami) has promised to beat any price on this head, so might be worth a call.

(note: I have no connection to them, just want to be helpful connecting all the threads on this and help out other C36 owners)

[QUOTE=rdmiani;21074]Hi Chuck...I think I found the upgrade discussion with photos that you mentioned. It was on the C34 site with a link to wikipedia I think. I've been reading so much, and have tons of browers open, I'm not sure what I'm looking at. However, I did see a detailed discussion.

Seems like picking up power from the macerator looks like a good option. Either that or run wires to the panel and use a spare breaker. One thing nice, I'm not the first person to try this...Rob :)[/QUOTE]

Quick question on running wires from the macerator:

Is there a separate maceration switch? Every time I turn the macerator circuit on, my macerator runs. I suppose you could T the circuit and then have another switch for the macerator, near the macerator?

One of the admirals requests was to not have to pump..... Great investment:)
I purchased a conversion kit and reused the bowl, cost was only $400 or so. For wiring I ran a line from the existing macerator to the new flush and put a switch on the original so I could turn it on when needed. I do not think there is a time when both would be on. During installation I did upgrade the existing wiring and made sure the breaker was the correct size.

I also use fresh water for the flush, it eliminates most of those smells you get from sea water. Double bonus for the admiral and me.

I must say it is hard to go back to pumping after just using a button.

Even 8 gauge wire is pretty thick in size..... kind of like the battery wires. I seriously doubt if anything running to components in the boast are heavy enough for what you want.

You also need quiet a few feet of it to run from the batteries, under the sole, around the holding tank and thru the bulkhead. It's been a while but I seem to have 26' stuck in my mind. I do remember the cost was around $400 for the cable alone.

Don't forget to replace the hose from the head itself to he holding tank with the non-permeable white hose so you help kill any future smell. That to is expensive.

#8 wire 0.12850 inches in diameter or 3.26390 mm for metric viewers. which is a little over an 1/8". Your battery wires are 0 or 00 closer to 3/8". This should not be a big cost. Make sure the ground wire is also the same size.

I have been known to look for inventive ways to save money, but I always believed it was cheaper to do it right the first time.

Yeah, 26' x 2 = 52' (because you need to make a circuit!) of 8 AWG marine-grade should cost you under $60. In fact, it's $1/foot from Defender. That should be enough (I think) to get you from the head to the breaker panel. Then another $15 for the breaker. All the electrical should be under $100 in parts, methinks.

Yeah, I think we missed the bottom price -- the top-line model (includes both the high-end control panel and the switch between fresh water and salt water) was $899 over the weekend, is $935 now.

David, the Seattle Boat Show is only a week or two away. There are deals to be had. Also, check with Fisheries Supply in Ballard and they might help you. (I got the boat show price on an anchor well before the show, a couple years back.) Show them Defender's price on the internet and I'll bet they will match it, and that will a) save you shipping, and b) support a local chandler.

If anyone does this conversion, please photograph the hell out of it so a nice documentation can be pdf'd for the C36IA Technical Upgrades Library. Thanks.