I've taken my tank out of a MKII, dirty job but not that hard, had to remove all the fittings to pull it out....the hose barbs should unscrew?

The holding tank on a MkII is under the portside settee, not the forward settee, so I don't think any MkII advice is going to help much.

Tasted the bilge water...got to stop doing that. LOL

[QUOTE=greigwill;16855]Yes...my holding tank is leaking.....I also tasted the bilge water [/QUOTE]

Yeah, these two statements should never be in the same sentence. :D

Mike

If you are not sure if your holding tank is leaking, have your holding tank pumped out, flush with clear water, add 3-4 gallons clear water and add your favorite food coloring and let stand overnite check bilge next day. Yes I know this takes all the fun out of it!

yes, I have you will have to remove the plywood on the long side of the tank
it is just tabbed in, I cut thru one of the tabs and opened up the plywood box, if i remember there are only two pieces of plywood. also take a large trash bag with you to slip the old tank in so as not to spill or drip anymore than neccessary

We just finished doing that job on our MK1, The plywood along the long side of the tank was tabbed into the plywood at both ends of the tank, as well as a few inches of the hull. I used one of those oscillating tools. cut the three tab locations, and removed the long piece of plywood.

I then unscrewed the hose barb for the inflow so I could wiggle the tank back and forth, makes it easier to pull tank aft to clear the lip of the opening. For us we then basically stood the tank on end. output hose end down. Then lifted it straight up, some wiggling, a few curses and and some hand sanitizer later it was wrapped in contractor bags.

Our new tank went in easier then the old one came out. I make a slight change and added a ball valve to the output of the tank, in hopes of keeping effluent out of the hose between pump outs.

Good luck.

I am happy to say that I did not have to replace the tank - only everything after it. The macerator pump started to leak due to a broken pump screw. The unspeakable could not be stopped since there was no valve. So I added one and replaced the macerator pump. I discovered that the horizontal positioning of the output of the pump can be moved to a vertical position. The final product is clean and looks good. The valve closes both outputs when it is in the middle position. I also moved all the fresh tank valves and moved the fresh water pump and painted the area below it. I hope that helps to give you some ideas.

Haro...

Looks good but one thing I didn't see was some way to lock the discharge line in the closed position. Do you have that? If not, you need it to be in compliance with regulations or you can get ticketed if you are boarded.(By locked, the regs say the valve locked closed, the head itself locked so no one can get in, etc.)

It may be as simple as taking the handle off and put it in a secure place away from the valve. The CG would be more interested in the the valve for the thru hull anyway.

Right out of my Vessel examiners manual for No Discharge Areas

Closing the seacock and padlocking, using a non-releasable wire tie, or removing the seacock handle.

Chuck - Yes there is a 1" discharge through hull that is not visible in the photos I posted. The discharge has a valve and is closed and tied with a tie wrap. That parts was already installed when I bought the boat.

If you do need a new tank, I found that the one offered at Catalina Direct was not the same dimensions as what was installed in my boat. I found that a B148 from Ronco Plastics was an exact match for what I had. In fact once I pulled my old tank out I found B148 marked on the tank.

Hope any of this helps.

Haro, that is a neat installation. It sure is nice having all the room with no A/C unit and the huge ducting that goes with it. Of course, in SWFL you can't give up your A/C.