I've got no power to the key switch, low oil pressure alarm etc. Still have the old wiring with ammeter--I know. Started and ran normally last time out 4 months ago. Cabin lights, bilge pump etc work normally. The marina mechanic is backed up months after our lake filled up after 5 years of drought so no professional help available. One old man and a voltmeter. Where to start?
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Fred & Joanne Norton
Araminta 3, C-36 #150
Lake Travis Texas
David S. Power
Two If By Sea #1687
Burnt Store Marina
Punta Gorda, FL
I'll sure have a look. Haven't seen a circuit breaker but it's possible. No, engine won't start or even turn over. Key seems dead, no alarms either so apparently no power to the panel at all. Checked engine ground and wiggled lots of connectors but no help. New batteries showing 13 volts so not fully charged but at least enough to activate the key and glow plugs if they were getting power.
Fred & Joanne Norton
Araminta 3, C-36 #150
Lake Travis Texas
This is an MK1, right? How about the fuse at the engine? Mine is over on the port side underneath the starter. If it's not that, then I would take the vom and start narrowing down the problem. Have someone hold the key, or jump the key switch. Use the volts setting, not amps or resistance ohms.
Nigel Calder's book ( Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual has good chapters on the basics of it. It's not rocket science, but it does take study/tinkering time to learn. Kinda fun once you do though. I'm no expert at it yet, but I'm already better than most so called "marine electricians" around here.
Make sure to unplug from shore power though, so you don't accidentally electrocute yourself, especially when you get to the circuit breaker panel.
Ben Ethridge
Miami, FL
1984 MK1 Hull# 263
I'd suggest measuring the voltage on all of the lugs of the key witch. If you measure +12 on any of the lugs, then skip to the next paragraph. Measure the voltage at either the starter lug or the alternator output lug. If you measure +12 volts on these lugs, then you have an open circuit between between the engine panel and those power lugs. If you don't have +12 volts on these lugs, then you have an open from the battery to those lugs.
Assuming you're here because you've measured +12 volts on one of the starter switch lugs, so now rotate the switch to the next position. One of the other lugs on the switch should have gone to +12 volts. If this does not happen, then you have a bad key switch. If one of the other lugs indeed goes to +12 volts, then follow the wire that is attached to this lug.
Nick Caballero
Retired C36/375IA Mk II Technical Editor
Fred,
In addition to all that's been said above, I'd be willing to bet (and I'm not a betting person) that your problem lies in the molded plug in the wiring harness between the engine and the engine panel. Your comment about still having the old wiring and ammeter strongly suggests there is corrosion in the 8-prong molded plug, and it is a fire waiting to happen. It should be easy to find, and most likely covered in black electrical tape. For your safety, and the safety of your crew, take the time to order the wiring harness upgrade, and install it:
https://www.catalina36.org/members/important-notices/wiring-harness-upgr...
The wiring harness in earlier MkI boats has been a known problem for the past 20+ years, and has been on our website for the past 15+ years. Please Please Please do it now. Don't wait!!!!
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2411/engine-wiring-harne...
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
Thanks for the help guys. Benethridge, I found the fuse under the starter and it was good but replace it anyway. Newguy, your suggestion to measure the voltage at the key was spot on. Hard for me to get that far back in the locker but found only 3 volts. Tom is right then - the problem has to be in the connector or the cable itself. I'll order the replacement harness and kit and voltmeter. Catalina Direct has a 16' and an 18' foot version. I'm not planning to relocate the panel from the back side of the port locker so is the 16' long enough??? I admit I should have done this when I bought the boat 12 years ago. I was a lot more agile and limber then.
Fred & Joanne Norton
Araminta 3, C-36 #150
Lake Travis Texas
Although replacing the cable is a good idea, if I were you I'd also measure the voltage at the fuse just as a sanity check. My boat is a MKII and so my knowledge of MKI wiring and components is scant.
BTW, one of the Hill Country Lakes is where I grew up: Buchanan.
Nick Caballero
Retired C36/375IA Mk II Technical Editor
Thanks for the follow-up, Nick. I'll check it next time at the boat but by then I'll have the new harness so it will be more of an autopsy. Since the whole engine panel was dead, I suspect the connector in the port locker. Found some corrosion there and in the other end in the engine compartment. Reports on the harness conversion say 2-3 hours if you know what you are doing, so I'll budget 2 days and hope I'm not back here sniveling for help again, although I sure appreciate the rich font of knowledge available here.
Fred & Joanne Norton
Araminta 3, C-36 #150
Lake Travis Texas