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Navyguy
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Joined: 6/1/14
Posts: 2
Fuel pump help

Hi all,
93' C36 (hull 1291) with the Universal M35, was motoring solo and noticed the RPMs periodically drop by 200-400 and then quickly pick back up again.   Having scoured the forums, I followed Stu's and others advice.  Changed the racor filter, the fuel filter, and the damn little screen filter in the fuel pump. All actually looked pretty clean.  Went to bleed the system today and could not get the fuel pump to run.   Clicks once when turning the key (or was that the solenoid?) and that is it.  Although not a complete mechanical idiot, I'm not the seasoned pro many of you are.   Hoping for some help:

1.  How can I determine if my fuel pump went belly up?  Did I do something wrong when changing the screen filter?   Put it in wrong? Would that cause it to not work?  
2.  If I need a new fuel pump, how "do it your self" is it for someone whose mechanical ability would mean employment at a Jiffy Lube?
3.  What else should I trouble shoot?

Thanks in advance
Mark
s/v Dark&Stormy

Mark Marino
Dark & Stormy
1993 C36 #1291

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pkeyser
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Joined: 5/18/13
Posts: 455

Have someone turn the key and warm  the glow plugs. This will activate the pump, which will make a clicking noise. If it doesen't, assuming no fuse is blown and wiring is good, the pump needs to be replaced. It's been some years since I did one, but recall it's fairly simple. Turn the fuel valve off. Disconnect the wires and fuel lines and replace the pump.  You may need a cup and diaper to drain the fuel line and keep the engine compartment clean. Be sure to not introduce debris into the fuel line. After installing, turn the key, activate the glow plugs and listen for the clicking. The M35 is a self priming engine, so it should be fairly easy to start after the proceedure.
All of this said, the fuel pump may activate with just the key turned (and glow plug button not depressed), but my memory is foggy here. Search this site for other fuel pump commentary.
 

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Catboat Willy
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Joined: 12/22/14
Posts: 305

Mark;
What Paul said. First make sure you are getting 12 volts to the pump with your Volt-Ohm-Meter and your are not dealing with a corroded wire. The read the posts on the forum regarding fuel pumps for the M-35. ​
We replaced our fuel pump on our M-35 engine with the following part number;
Puralator/ Facet # 476459E   12 volts, 8GPH. pressure 6.5 to 8 PSI . Any pump with those specs will do an emergency.
Some of these pumps come with new elbows and in some cases, you'll use your old ones. just have all the parts you'll need before you start.  
First, prepare the area as you'll have a little diesel on the floor underneath you.
Second; turn off the petcock on the fuel tank
Third; Re-install the new pump and re-install the electric.Turn the fuel back on at the fuel tank. Make sure the new pump is running by listening for the clicking sound. 
Fourth; If the pump is running, let it run for several minutes to build up fuel pressure and re-start the engine. The M-35 is a self priming engine so there is no need to bleed the air out of the system. May run a bit rough in the begining.

Best price I found several years ago was $77.90 at Aircraft Spruce. Probably a little higher now that Facet Pump was acquired by Puralator.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/st/manu_facet/facetgoldflo.php

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rjwilson
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Joined: 4/28/14
Posts: 50

I added a toggle switch in the engine compartment that allows me to energize the fuel pump without needing to use the key and glow plugs.  Great way to bleed the system after changing the filters and checking to see if the pump is working.  
 

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Catboat Willy
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Joined: 12/22/14
Posts: 305

Great idea Bob !
Bill

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dlincoln3
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Joined: 4/24/16
Posts: 86

If you do manage to get a significant amount of air into the fuel line during the process, the "self bleeding" feature is inadequate to remedy it.  Our engines DO have a manual bleeder valve, which you need to open and then activate the lift pump ( by holding the glow plug key) to pump the air out.  I had to do this a couple of years ago after a seriously botched fuel filter change.  If memory serves, this valve is located along the fuel rail assembly toward the top rear starboard corner of the engine (diagram attached).  This bleeder valve is not referenced in the owner's manual for some reason, but a marine diesel mechanic was kind enough to show me this feature, and it took less than 20 seconds to bleed all of the air out.

Thanks,
Don

 

Navyguy
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Joined: 6/1/14
Posts: 2

Thanks all for your help. Turns out it was a bad pump (the original I believe, not bad after 27 years).    Catboat Willie-  thanks for the link- almost half the cost of the pump on Catalina Direct.  Installed the new one today.  Dark & Stormy fired up after a couple of tries and then ran smoothly for several minutes under load.  Will take her out this coming weekend for the real test.  

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Catboat Willy
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Joined: 12/22/14
Posts: 305

Mark, Glad you got that to work out...... we carry a spare on board but I think our original lasted about 15 years. 
Dark & Stormy....Great name for a boat !........and to celebrate your success, I think I'll have one right now.....LOL
Bill

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