Launched last week and everything went fine except I am getting no power to the engine instrument panel. The only thing that works on the panel is the remote VHF which was obviously added later. The navigation instruments on the pedestal all work.
The panel I have (Universal 35 engine) is not either of the panels in the owners manual. Since none of the instruments are working (fuel gauge, tach, oil pressure or temp) it's obvious that the main power coming in is cut somewhere though I've never had a problem before and I didn't do any electrical work over the winter. ,It's not obvious in the attached picture but there is a label saying "10Amp" on the bottom of the panel next to the blower switch. However, the "switch" seems to be a rubber little bubble type cover rather than a fuse holder.
I have a DC fuse panel (second pic) with two switches, one for the windlass and the other for the DC panel.. I reset that but "no joy" and can't find any other fuses.
Before I start trying to pull things apart, any suggestions?
Thanks in advance...
Chuck Parker
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
(I tried to send a message earlier and not sure it went through.) Look in the compartment right behind your dedicated starting battery switch. Toward the bottom you may find a hard to see large fuse. I had a similar problem a couple of years ago and that fuse was blown. Replaced fuse & problem was solved.
Tom Runiewicz
ObLaDi ObLaDa
Catalina 36 MkII, Wing Keel, Tall Rig
Hull #1998
North East, MD
Thanks Tom.... I'll take a look but I don't have a dedicated starting battery... I have an inverter behind the panel with the DC and Windlass switches. I wouldn't think that would make a difference though.
Chuck
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
There is a 20amp reset circuit breaker mounted on my M35B right next to the fuel pump. Power to the engine instruments go through that breaker. Check to see if it needs reset.
2003 Catalina 36
If it is not this fuse on the engine, check the key-switch. We had similar issue caused by worn key switch. Replaced this and no problems since.
Durk Nijdam
S/V "SILER"
Catalina 36MKII - 2001 / hullnr. 2013
Stavoren - Holland
On my list to check both Monday but I have a Universal engine, not a Westerbek so does that make a difference?
Now, it does not show on the picture of the instrument panel but there is a small "sign: that says "10Amp" right next to the blower switch and there seems to be a clear, bubble -like protector over something on th bottom of the panel. This seems flexible and I can't see if there is anything resembling a fuse or circuit breaker there. Does anyone know anything about this?
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Westerbeke and Universal are virtually the same engine and produced in Taunton, Mass. Many of the engines are derived from Kabota and are modified for marine use.
I think there's some good ideas to check into regarding above threads.
I too have that clear soft bubble on the bottom of the pedestal engine pannel. Next time I'm at the boat, I'll see if I can figure out its purpose.
Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B
UPDATE...
Checked the circuit breaker by the fuel pump & it was ok. Could not find any fuse beyond the major breaker for the DC panel.
I did find that there is a 10amp "push button" fuse in that bubble on the bottom of the panel next to the Blower switch. I replaced that and got power to the panel with some issues. The tach worked fine; I didn't run it long enough to see if the engine heat would go to the operating range.
Now the problem.... the fuel and oil pressure gages both pegged hard to the right.
Suggestions??? One friend suggested that it might be caused by a faulty ground but it's getting beyond my capabilities. How do I find a bad ground?
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
You should have a good look inside your engine instrument panel. The 10-amp tripped for a reason. Attached a document I found with helpful information about the meters. In the manual is a good electrical diagram. Have a good look at the key-switch, this is the most sensitive component to my opinion.
Durk Nijdam
S/V "SILER"
Catalina 36MKII - 2001 / hullnr. 2013
Stavoren - Holland
It sounds like a possible short...and possibly in your navpod housing since that fuse tripped. Attached is a possibly helpful article. As noted above I think you need to open up the navpod and see if anything has come lose. It requires a special "safety" torx.
https://www.boatingmag.com/story/how-to/troubleshoot-your-boats-fuel-gauge/
JEB
This is the tool...
Latest info..... had a marine electrician on board. ... couldn't find anything with a bad ground & I replaced the ignition switch so that was not it. Since the circuit breaker on the panel was shorted out (power was restored after I replaced that) the thought currently is that there was some sort of power surge that shorted the gauges internally. Nothing else seems to be wrong.
The next step is to replace one gauge and if that corrects that problem, replace the others.
Can anyone suggest a dealer for the Catalina gauges that were used in 2002 models?
Thanks for your help!
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Don't believe there is anything special about the guages on our boats. I recently needed to replace our volt gauge on our '98. Looked at options available through WM and then went online and found a good deal on a new one through ebay. Just takes some time to research.
David S. Power
Two If By Sea #1687
Burnt Store Marina
Punta Gorda, FL
Re your question where to get original meters: I ordered a set new original meters at CatalinaDirect for our 2001-Siler and this is working well and not complicated.
Durk Nijdam
S/V "SILER"
Catalina 36MKII - 2001 / hullnr. 2013
Stavoren - Holland
I found the gauge on Catalina Direct but in the narrative they say if replacing a gauge you have to replace the wiring harness too. Is this really necessary... those who replaced gauges, did you do this? Seems pricey for the harness
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Some how I feel because of the year of your boat that the harness does not apply. I believe it applies to earlier boats. Anyway I would not think it would be a problem to just replace the gauges.
Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine
Kind of putting an end to this thread, the Catalina Direct website states if "replacing an ammeter" with a new instrument the harness replacement is necessary. Not being particularly knowledgeable about electronics, I read this thinking they were referring to the volt meter.
It seems before 1988 they used an ammeter on the instrument panel but then changed out to a voltmeter. As HelenRita is a 2002, I don't need the harness. BTW, if you call the Catalina Direct Tech desk for help, be prepared for a LONG wait
I pass this along should anyone else be in my situation. The voltmeter is "in the mail" as I write this so hopefully this odyssey will end shortly. Thanks to all who provided advice.
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ