So I embarqued on my journey towards damper plate replacement.
I removed the transmission cables and found the holding bracket seriously corroded. First additional problem. Unbolted the prop shaft coupler from the transmission. It's obvious I have to back off the prop shaft probably 6 inches or so to effectively remove and reinstall the tranny. Prop moved only ⅛ inch. Second problem. Tried to see if I could gain some room by removing the prop coupler. One bolt succeeded. The other bolt rusted in place and sheared off. Talked to boat yard mechanics to tap it out. Third additional problem.
First question for the group. How do I back off the prop shaft to gain clearance? Do I loosen the hose clamps on the rubber sleeve just before the shaft exits the hull?
Second question can I do this without removing the heat exchanger and all those hoses? Please say yes.
Three problems and all I've done is remove the tranny cables and decoupled the shaft from it. I suspect this is just the beginning of my trials and tribulations. If the group doesn't mind, I'm going to make this a group affair. I will pay for sound advice by honestly describing my foolish mistakes and asking stupid questions. What a deal!
Enrique
Talisman 1998 MK2 36' Hull #1673
on the hard in South Glastonburry, CT
Enrique
Talisman
1998 36 MK2 Hull #1673
Tall Rig Wing Keel
M35BC engine
Old Saybrook, CT Summer
South Glastonbury, CT Winter
Enrique,
Do you have a PSS shaft seal? If so, the SS donut will have to be loosened and slid forward. Using 6-800 grit sandpaper on the shaft, and then a few drops of dish soap will help a lot. Most likely the o-rings and set screws will have to be replaced when re-installing. Remember that there are four (4) set screws in the SS donut. Two in each hole. If you have a standard stuffing box, then use more force to push the shaft aft. Other than friction, there is nothing holding it in place.
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
I have the standard stuffing box. So basically just push it back? I loosened the stuffing box and tried pulling from the prop but it didn't budge. Granted after shearing off the screw on the coupler I was a bit hesitant to be forceful. I just replaced the cutlass bearing last year.
Enrique
Enrique
Talisman
1998 36 MK2 Hull #1673
Tall Rig Wing Keel
M35BC engine
Old Saybrook, CT Summer
South Glastonbury, CT Winter
Hi Enrique
I did the damper plate upgrade two years ago. Followed some excellent information on this website. I have a PSS seal and Spurs which add a 1 inch spacer between the coupler and the transmission flange to allow space for the spurs in front of the prop.
I first put on a lot of penetrating oil, multiple times and waited a week or more.
I’m a little confused on what bolt sheared off. On mine the bolts go through the flanges and are held on with hex nuts. Once I got the four bolts out, I used a series of different length bolts following the procedure documented in this website to pull the coupler off the shaft.
If you can not pull your shaft back to the rudder I would assume your packing is tight on your shaft and possibly grooved making it near impossible to move, without first removing your packing or the whole stuffing box.
I had plenty of room to remove the transmission. I did not have to remove anything that was not attached to the transmission.
I later wound up damaging the threads on the prop shaft removing the prop to replace the cutlass bearing. Since it was an old bronze shaft I replaced it with a stainless steel shaft.
Nile Schneider
Mañana C36 #1798
Lake Champlain, VT
Nile, the screw I broke off is one of the two that holds the coupler to the shaft. I had no problem removing the four holding the shaft coupler to the transmission coupler. I'm curios about what you said on using different length screws to push back the shaft. Where on this web site is that?
i think Mark identified my problem. I had forgotten that I had a zinc on my shaft that would prevent it from moving back. I'm probably going to the boat tomorrow for another session. I'll let you know how it turns out.
did you have to remove the heat exchanger?
Enrique
Talisman
1998 36 MK2 Hull #1673
Tall Rig Wing Keel
M35BC engine
Old Saybrook, CT Summer
South Glastonbury, CT Winter
Enrique,
As you can see from the pictures, my original coupler is a press on. I did replace it with one like yours with two clamp screws. If you broke off the head of the screw it should no longer have any clamping force. I would use some penetrating oil, like PB blaster, repeatedly over a couple days, maybe a heat gun for penetration. Then I would try to remove it.
I did not use screws to push back the shaft, I used them to remove the flange from the shaft. I used a couple sets of 4 progressively shorter bolts to pull the coupling off the shaft using the flange on the transmission. I put a less than 1 inch diameter drive socket between the end of the shaft and the transmission flange. Put in the 4 appropriate length bolts and progressively tightened them to pull the coupler off the shaft. Because of the limited clearance on the backside of the transmission flange it with take a series of shorter bolts to pull to the coupler completely off the shaft. The third picture shows the bolts that I used. Take care not to bend or damage the flanges on the transmission. PB Blaster and a heat gun may help.
I can sympathize about the Zinc, out of sight out of mind. Sometimes we get so focused on a problem we don’t stand back to look at everything.
I did not have to remove the heat exchanger or any hoses. Don’t forget to change your transmission fluid when you get it off the engine. So much easier when you can just turn it over and pour the stuff out.
I assume you have read the Technical, Maintenance article on changing the damper plate.
Nile Schneider
Mañana C36 #1798
Lake Champlain, VT
Thanks Nile. Very smart what you used to seperate shaft from flange.
Enrique
Talisman
1998 36 MK2 Hull #1673
Tall Rig Wing Keel
M35BC engine
Old Saybrook, CT Summer
South Glastonbury, CT Winter
Thanks to Tom Soko we finally moved the prop shaft aft. Thanks Tom it is great having you as my winter neighbor. The tranny didn't just fall off after removing the six bolts like the article said. It took about an hour of banging, prying, knuckle scraping and cursing. Finally was able to get the right angle to get a screw driver behind it by undoing the HE supports so I could move the HE around. Thanks to advice to get good ratchet allen wrenches the damper plate itself was easy.
Now just have to clean up, clean and change the oil in the tanny, wait for my damper plate to arrive and put it back. Wonder what surprises are in store for me there.
I was surprised to see a small amount of water in the bottom of the bell housing. Is this normal? Where does it come from?
Enrique
Enrique
Talisman
1998 36 MK2 Hull #1673
Tall Rig Wing Keel
M35BC engine
Old Saybrook, CT Summer
South Glastonbury, CT Winter
Any chance there is a zinc installed on your prop shaft restricting the movement of your shaft aft. Perhaps it's up against the strut/cutlass bearing?
Mark Kozy
"COLDWATER"
1999 C36 MK2 #1742 FK/M35B
Vallejo Yacht Club-Oldest on the West Coast
Boat lives in Marina del Rey, CA (SOCAL)
I live in Placerville, CA (NORCAL)
Of course there is Mark. I promised honesty on my stupid moves. Thanks for identifying this one for me.
Enrique
Enrique
Talisman
1998 36 MK2 Hull #1673
Tall Rig Wing Keel
M35BC engine
Old Saybrook, CT Summer
South Glastonbury, CT Winter