Best way to remove heat exchanger?

12 posts / 0 new
Last post
FlyMeAway
Offline
Joined: 3/20/12
Posts: 241
Best way to remove heat exchanger?

What's the best way to remove the heat exchanger on an M-35B, making the least mess and spilling the least amount of coolant around/under/on the engine?

Drain the coolant first? Through where? Suck it out of the manifold with a pump first?

I'm dealing with a cracked exchanger bracket, and another bracket that has come loose. I have pictures and may post more later, but this is my first question for now. Thanks!

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

stu jackson c34's picture
stu jackson c34
Offline
Joined: 12/3/08
Posts: 1270

Drain it from the front, it's easier.

How to Burp Your Engine (Reply #6) [url]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.msg26462.html#msg26462[/url]

Your engine will be slightly different, but it's the concept that should apply. You don't have to get all of it out.

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

diggerlarue
Offline
Joined: 12/30/12
Posts: 13

It's not too difficult, but remember to ensure all the coolant from the expansion tank in the port side locker is empty too. Also, you won't get all the coolant out of the exchanger since it sits low at the back of the engine so have some containers ready to pour it into.

Stephen Cameron
2001 Catalina 36 MKII hull#2012
Tall Rig Fin Keel
Vancouver, BC

newguy's picture
newguy
Offline
Joined: 8/1/11
Posts: 408

The petcock on the heat exchanger might take care of the last bit of coolant. Catch as much as you care to. Removing the zinc should take care of the majority of the raw water. Again, catch as much as you care to. Loosen then remove the radiator cap and you might get more from the petcock or front hose.

Nick Caballero
Retired C36/375IA Mk II Technical Editor

HowLin's picture
HowLin
Offline
Joined: 1/12/12
Posts: 355

Been there done that David! There is a plug in the Kubota (M35) block on the port side that will drain the coolant. (Not near the boat or I would take a pic).

I also had the brazed on brackets break. Universal sells clamp-around style brackets which I fitted (really hard to hold the clamps closed to screw in the bolts though!!!

---- Howard & Linda Matwick ----

--- S/V "Silhouette" - Nanaimo, BC ----

--- 1999  C36 MkII  #1776 M35BC ---

newguy's picture
newguy
Offline
Joined: 8/1/11
Posts: 408

I struggled (a lot) with those clamps just this week, putting a few dings in the paint job I just lavished on the heat exchanger as I bumped into the transmission, etc. What finally worked for me was to tie wrap the clamp ends closed enough to get the bolt to pass through along with some threads to start the bolt. Got a few turns on each bolt, then snipped the tie wraps, then evenly homed down.

Nick Caballero
Retired C36/375IA Mk II Technical Editor

stu jackson c34's picture
stu jackson c34
Offline
Joined: 12/3/08
Posts: 1270

[QUOTE=HowLin;22108]

1. There is a plug in the Kubota (M35) block on the port side that will drain the coolant. (Not near the boat or I would take a pic).

2. I also had the brazed on brackets break. Universal sells clamp-around style brackets which I fitted (really hard to hold the clamps closed to screw in the bolts though!!![/QUOTE]

1. Howard's right. However, in previous discussions on this topic, I suggested -that the engine mounted petcock [B][I]may [/I][/B]not be the most advantageous place to drain the fluid. Actually, what I said was more like it's a stupid idea, but... The reason, skippers, is that petcocks are very small openings, and subject to getting clogged, and then, like the pressure relief valves on our water heaters, inoperable thereafter. The response from some was "It worked for me" and "Not a problem." I personally and, as an HVAC systems engineer, wouldn't trust it. Besides, as I posted then, the location is far from optimal to do it without drips.

2. There are two styles of HX: brackets and hose clamps. We have the latter and, with the right sized hose clamps, have never had an issue mounting the HX. Both the brazed on brackets and the bracket used to hold the hose clamps on are known to have failed. Check your engine while it's running on a regular basis.

Good luck, it's a doable issue that we've all faced and resolved.

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

FlyMeAway
Offline
Joined: 3/20/12
Posts: 241

I have also contemplated just getting a new bracket brazed back on at a radiator place where I plan on getting the HX cleaned and pressure-tested (might as well once I've gone through the trouble of draining and removing it).

The only issue is, only 450 hours before it breaks? Is there something about our engines over-vibrating? Should I have that checked by a competent mechanic?

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

BudStreet
Offline
Joined: 9/4/09
Posts: 1127

Mine had one bracket off when we bought the boat in 2009. The amount of brazing material holding it on was pretty much nil. I had a rad shop rebuild it and they brazed it back on and re-did the other one as a precaution. So far so good. I think it was just poorly done originally. Time will tell.

mutualfun's picture
mutualfun
Offline
Joined: 6/25/07
Posts: 454

I am like Bud. Had a bracket come loose over 5 years ago. I took it off and re silver soldered it. Has been on ever sense. There was just not enough on the first time.

Randy Sherwood
Mutualfun 1990 # 1057
T/R W/K M35a
Home. Charlotte, Mi.
Boat. St Augustine,Fl.

stu jackson c34's picture
stu jackson c34
Offline
Joined: 12/3/08
Posts: 1270

[QUOTE=FlyMeAway;22141]

The only issue is, only 450 hours before it breaks? Is there something about our engines over-vibrating? Should I have that checked by a competent mechanic?[/QUOTE]

My bracket broke at 2700 engine hours. Stuff happens and no "competent" mechanic would ever give you an estimate of when something would break. If he did I wouldn't call him "competent." Just keep checking your engine when it's running on a regular basis. When my bracket broke, I only discovered it because the coolant started leaking. The hoses held it in place and the bracket was underneath the HX, impossible to see the break. I did everything else first: changes hoses, checked connections, you name it. Finally took the HX off and found the break, which had gouged into the shell.

Stuff happens. :eek:

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

FlyMeAway
Offline
Joined: 3/20/12
Posts: 241

[QUOTE=stu jackson c34;22156]My bracket broke at 2700 engine hours. Stuff happens and no "competent" mechanic would ever give you an estimate of when something would break. If he did I wouldn't call him "competent."
[/QUOTE]

Nah, Stu, you misunderstood me! Of course I'm not asking about an estimate for when the thing would break. But my engine is vibrating so much, I wonder if the HX breaking is just a symptom of something else.

I just don't know what "normal" diesel vibration is, even if I know that its a lot -- the questions is, when does a lot of vibration become too much vibration :)

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

Log in or register to post comments