I have a Sterling Power Pro Charge Ultra 12v - 40amp and three 6v wet cell batteries and one 12 v house/start battery.
Last week, I unplugged shore power, went cruising for about 12 hours, came back to the dock with about 82% batteries charged (Xantrex monitor) and plugged in, went to sleep. About 3am my CO2 alarm AND propane alarm went off. After a brief panic attack realized that made no sense and it must be my batteries. Checked the charger and the voltage was at 14.4v/41amps which is the quick charge setting and not the float setting. The battery monitor read 100% - whereas in the past it always has read FULL. I unplugged the charger and the batteries stayed fairly charged for a week. Seven days later they were at 51% (I live on the boat so there is some draw on the batteries). The mechanics at the marina want about $1600 to replace the charger and labor which is ridiculous when the charger is around $350 so ...
Questions:
- Has anyone had experience with a charger that is not recognizing a full battery? How did you fix it? Just replaced charger?
- Could this be because of another faulty system monitor/wiring/battery - all of the above?
- Gassing batteries are obviously bad ... did that process hurt the battery/make them faulty?
- Why do these things only happen at 3am?
Thanks for the help!
Brittany
Hi. You really have three 6-volt wet cells? Not 2 or 4?
Ben Ethridge
Miami, FL
1984 MK1 Hull# 263
You can't have three 6V batteries on a 12V boat. Problem is not the charger if this is the case.. Also unless you know your Ah counter is both wired and programmed correctly it CAN NOT be trusted for SOC.
If your batts were taking 41A at 14.4V they were either not full or you are trying to charge an 18V bank. You may also have a shorted cell.. Start with specific gravity readings...
-Maine Sail
https://www.marinehowto.com/
That's why I asked :-)
Ben Ethridge
Miami, FL
1984 MK1 Hull# 263
Sorry there are four batteries ... In the three boxes.
I would take them into BatteriesPlus or AutoZone (stores) and ask them to charge them and then load-test the batteries.
Do you keep them topped off with distilled water? If you've put in tap water or let it slide until the plates are showing a few times, then you may have trashed your batteries.
I'm a little fuzzy on how to test a charger but perhaps others have advice? You can buy a cheap portable charger, as an alternate to your main charger and as a backup charger, and see if it is keeping them charged. There are some recommended ones on Amazon. Maine Sail probably also has recommendations.
Basically, you need to narrow down the problem.
Nigel Calder's book has an excellent section, containing just about everything you need to know about batteries and their maintenance. I would buy that book and read it. I had to read it a few times, before I understood it.
Ben Ethridge
Miami, FL
1984 MK1 Hull# 263
Britt
What Main sail recommended is really the best first step. Buy your self a $10.00 hydrometer Most Auto parts stores carry them. Below is the procure for checking your batteries. What your looking for is a difference between cells. One bad cell in anyone of your batteries could be causing this issue.
There are many web sites that show how to use a hydrometer. Maybe even some you tubes.
Measuring Specific Gravity
Specific Gravity:
The most accurate and direct way to test the state of charge of a battery cell is to determine the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte. The higher the specific gravity of the electrolyte the higher the state of charge. The best way to truly monitor your system over it lifetime is to regularly take and record specific gravity readings.
Unfortunately hydrometers are not easy to use. Testing can be time consuming, there are possibilities for error and safety must be considered. For these reasons we present this bulletin.
Hydrometer Types
Hydrometers come in many sizes and shapes. We recommend a hydrometer with a float, contained in a glass vessel with a rubber bulb to draw the acid into the tube. Stay away from floating colored balls as the extra inaccuracy results in very subjective testing. The hydrometer should give you a numeric reading directly from the instrument. A good hydrometer is accurate to +/- 0.005 points so 1.265 could read from 1.260-1.270. The instrument accuracy should be known.
Method of Use
Exact procedures is instrument dependent and this is given as a general procedure and assumes a hydrometer with glass float and body.
An easy procedure is to number the cells starting with the positive cell and move from cell to cell towards the negative terminal. If this is part of a preventive maintenance program it is helpful to number the batteries.
Temperature Correction
SG of acid is temperature dependent. If the temperature is very cold or very hot this can lead to incorrect readings. To correct for temperature use the following equations the equations or below 70ºF subtract points (0.03 per 10ºF) and above 70ºF add points.
Correction factor = (0.595 x Cell Temp ºC – 12.5) / 1000
This is valid for 0-130ºF or -17.8- 54.4ºC
The following shows the approximate state of charge at various specific gravities at 77ºF / 25ºC.
ChargedSpecific Gravity
100%1.255-1.275
75%1.215-1.235
50%1.180-1.200
25%1.155-1.165
0%1.110-1.130
Hydrometers are at best accurate to +/-0.005 points. Voltage can be used to estimate state of charge, however caution must be taken when interpreting voltage readings.
Chuck Lennox
97 MKii Ventura Ca
Island Girl Hull #1611