Barry,
Both pix are taken from the cockpit. The first pic shows the cars rigged with a "continuous loop" line. Starting at the eye-strap on the forward (fixed) car, the line goes back thru the top sheave on the aft car, forward to the top sheave on the forward car, back and forth, until you have filled all the sheaves. The continuous loop comes back to the cockpit, and the tail end gets tied to the eye-strap on the aft (moving) car. This setup makes it very easy to adjust the cars forward or aft, even under load. I tried bungie cords tied to the aft cars, but it was a miserable failure.

The second picture shows another Garhauer block with cam cleat which you might want to get, attached to the forward post of the pushpit. It may not be in their on-line catalog, but they have them in stock. The block with cam cleat makes it soooooo much easier to adjust the line from the cockpit by pulling inboard, instead of aft. It also is a very convenient spot to fasten the line, without resorting to adding another cleat and/or drilling holes. Hope this helps.

Hi Tom,
The continuous loop seems like a better way than the bungie method to do the adjustable cars.
What do you have to secure the line that loops back near the cockpit?

Mike
Pleiades C36 #2102

Tom,
I guess I didn't read your post all the way. I see that you use recommend a cam cleat. But the photo doesn't look like the same boat.
Are you using the same cam cleat on the pushpit in the first/left photo?

Miike A.

Mike,
You are correct. They are not the same boat. The picture on the left is my C36, and the picture on the right is my C400. If I had known about the block with a cam cleat when I owned the 36, I would have put it on. As I didn't, I used cleats mounted near the aft end of the track on the rail. The rail mounted cleats are not nearly as good as the block with cam cleat mounted on the pushpit. Night and day difference.

:DMake sure that you align the piece of track that comes with the new car carefully so you can slide the new car directly onto the Genoa track otherwise you may lose bearings. They are a great addition.
John Meyer
Heading to Escondido, MX

Mine's a '97, so I can't answer your question; mine did not have bearings as I recall.

One thing I did find; you may want to check your track before you put the new cars on. Mine had a bit of adhesive squeeze out here and there, that kept the car from sliding by. That gave me some grief trying to get them on. Once I cleaned that out, they work fine.

[QUOTE=TomSoko;17322]Mike,
You are correct. They are not the same boat. The picture on the left is my C36, and the picture on the right is my C400. If I had known about the block with a cam cleat when I owned the 36, I would have put it on. As I didn't, I used cleats mounted near the aft end of the track on the rail. The rail mounted cleats are not nearly as good as the block with cam cleat mounted on the pushpit. Night and day difference.[/QUOTE]

I think I really like the system you have rigged up on your C400, but would appreciate some additional pictures to make sure I've got it right. Still don't completely understand it, but if I do...

I wonder if there is a system that's yet one step simpler, especially given the use of the pushpit cam cleat: why do you need the continuous loop line? Just fasten a single block to the track forward of the lead genoa car and then anchor one end of the line to car (no block / pully needed at the car end). If you need to move the car forward, pull on the line, but if you need to move the car aft, just release the line -- the force of the wind on the sail *should* move the car backwards if the line isn't holding it in place. Thoughts? Is this optimistic?

This may also be cheaper than the Garhauer "system" (would be another reason to do it beyond KISS) but I haven't priced it out yet...

For what it's worth, if you buy the complete Garhauer system I don't think you need the aft genoa car (pictured in your C400 photo), at least not on a C36; the one car should be sufficient, I think -- or am I wrong? I've been hoping that if I buy the system I can repurpose my existing cars to the outer track...

My experience with the adjustable cars indicates that the double blocks at both the forward end of the track and on the car are necessary, in order to be able to adjust the car under load. I don't think a single block at the forward end of the track would come close to providing the needed advantage. Shock cord will not pull the car back, a line is needed for that. I don't have the block on the pushpit, but having seen it, I think I just might add it, that looks like it would provide a more comfortable direction of pull when adjusting the car. I also like the continuous loop idea; but I'll have to refresh my memory of an end to end splice...;)

David,
I agree with Gary. You definitely need more than a 1:1 purchase to pull the car forward under load. A single block at the forward end of the track would only work on the lazy sheet, which is essentially the setup you have now without adjustable cars. The deck geometry is different between the 36 and the 400 (duh!). The aft fixed car came with the boat, and is needed. The 36 does not need one, so re-purposing the fixed car to another track would be fine. Sorry, but I don't have any other pix of the genoa cars on either boat. The pushpit block with a cam cleat is a better solution (IMHO) to the swivel block with cam cleat that Garhauer sells as a "complete kit" for the aft end of the genoa track. I've raced on boats with that setup, and it seems that someone is always knocking the adjusting line out of the cam cleat, and messes up the genoa trim. Plus, the Admiral said she didn't want any more toe-stubbers on the side deck, so..... I've also seen some cam cleats mounted low on the outboard side of the cabintop for the adjusting line, but they were race boats without dodgers. I'm really happy with the pushpit mounted blocks. Garhauer came up with a winner for that idea.

Gary,
The continuous loop is a concept, and not actually how the line is rigged/spliced. I simply used bowlines on each end of the adjusting line (one on the forward car, one on the aft car). I suppose if you want to you could make small eye splices for the ends of the adjusting lines, but I didn't bother. There is no need to learn continuous splicing for double-braid line! Hope this helps.

Thanks for the clarification Tom. I made an end for end splice once, but have no idea how I did it. I don't think the internet existed at the time, so I probably just winged it. Bow lines sound perfect !

Thanks, this is great stuff.

How much force is on the line when under load? Should we be at all worried about force the cam exerts on the pushpit? I'm just imaging that cleat (and the pushpit) taking quite a beating in 20 knot air

David,
Both the pushpit and the cam cleat can take the static forces, even with 30+ kts of wind. The biggest strain is when you are trying to move the car forward when under load. Assuming you don't put the adjusting line on your primary winch and blindly crank away, everything should be fine.

[QUOTE=TomSoko;17441]David,
Both the pushpit and the cam cleat can take the static forces, even with 30+ kts of wind. The biggest strain is when you are trying to move the car forward when under load. Assuming you don't put the adjusting line on your primary winch and blindly crank away, everything should be fine.[/QUOTE]

Makes sense. I suppose if we're being overcautious, it isn't difficult to head up or ease sail, adjust the cars, and then trim or fall off again (assuming a cruise not a race).

I see there was a good thread back in 2013 discussing adjustable Genoa Cars. I was wondering if any who have made this change have good pictures and updated commentary on the subject?

Additionally, we have a 130 Genoa which I think is fairly common. The current track from the factory seems located too far aft. The car is nearly all the way forward on the track when flying a full sail. If we reef the Genoa more than 10-15%, the sail appears to loose shape even with the car moved forward as far as it can go. Have others experienced this?

We have a Doyle sail that contains a red line in the clew. The jib sheet should extend to the block at the same angle as the line on the sail to maintain sail shape.  

Hi Paul,

All bets are off when furling the headsail.  Shape and draft control is screwed up when sail is rolled.  The clue is lifted and most likely the tell tails are gone.  There an old saying:  "Gentlemen don't go to weather."  Once your reef down to a 110%, short luffed sail, going to weather is hard to do well or should I say elegantly.  As you're starting with a 130% jib, reefing the main behind a full jib may give better results.  If cracked off a little, you can sail flatter and faster, then you should set a car on the outside rail and use it.

If you had a purpose made 100% jib, the fairlead would be fine inboard.  Interestingly, the previous owner had the adjustable track on the outside  rail.  The inboard tack is still there with old fashion cars with stop pins.  I have a 135% jib with reef markings set for 120% and 100%.  Depending on sea conditions, in a strong chop up wind, I would keep the jib full and spill a little at the top to power through and put a single reef in the main,  If the wind condition strengthen, I start to furl the jib, later, if necessary add a second reef.  Then go to 100% jib at the end.  If all else fails roll the jib completely.  We aren't racing any longer, so I don't need to beat us anymore.

Hope that made sense.  Most of my experience is the short chop of the Great Lakes, regardless of wave height, the period of the wave is shorter than their ocean cousins.

Regards,
 

Thanks for your advice Lou. You likely saved me $500 in adjustable Genoa Cars. If we raced, maybe they would give a slight edge, but we cruise. 

Regards,
Paul