Chris, I know you posted this awhile ago, but do you still have your old AH3000? I still use mine, but would love to get my hands on a backup unit. If so, please email me pclindholm(at)hotmail(dot)com.

I have the Autohelm 2000 (I think it is). When you say that the new one mades a difference - in what way does it make a difference? Also, another issue: One of the rollers inside of the ring that attaches to the wheel sheared off. I was able to reattach it by drilling through and reattaching it with a machine screw. But I'm worried that the others may be getting ready to go also. What do you think?

It seems that Defender no longer sells this remanufactured product. Total price now is over $1200. Too bad; you just about had me convinced. I'll wait for another sale of some sort to come around maybe.

Im about to close on a 1987 Catalina 36, that has no autohelm. With how this opens up the ability to cruise long distances, this is the first project. The dealer is suggesting a below deck linear drive unit x-10 sailboat package. I hear everyone talking of wheel pilots, and at 1/3 the price and easy installation I would love to go that route. You all find wheel units sufficient?
The dealer is a guy who has always done well by me on my last boat (Sandy victim) having rebuilt the drive unit rather then sell me a new one.
Love to hear your replys
Thankyou
Gary

I have a Raytheon S1 wheel pilot. I wish I'd gotten a below decks pilot. The wheel drive ate it's gear drive once and gives up with a 'drive stalled' message whenever the weather really kicks up adding weather helm. I just don't think it's up to the task of a boat the size/displacement of a C36 (that's just my opinion, of course).

A secondary consideration; if your steering cables snap, you have a backup with a below decks pilot. Having lost my steering once, and only having to steer about 4 miles with the emergency tiller, I find that to be an important consideration.

They are indeed more expensive but I'd file this under buy once, cry once.

Gary, check out my article in the Technical - Upgrades library for a perspective on the below-deck autopilot. My article is for my Mk II, so the linear actuator installation wouldn't be exact, but the write-up will give you some autopilot hints that would help you no matter which choice you make. Especially worth noting is my method of installing the rudder position sensor, which is the best way to do that that I have found (ahem, if I do say so myself).

Gary, the general consensus is that wheel pilots are "just at" the range for the size of our boats. This is based on C36 input over the years, our boats are similar. There seem to be two solutions: a below-deck drive or a larger wheel pilot system, and the only one of those I'm familiar with is the CPT autopilot, which has an honest-to-goodness REAL motor! [url]www.cptautopilot.com[/url] It doesn't however, "interface" with other nav instruments. My ST3000 doesn't either and there are philosophical issues each skipper has to make that decision.

Thank you so much! I used to "cruise" the Cheoy Lee web site, and was so happy to find a Catalina site. Right now I have to find where the "pointy end" is on my new boat, until then I'll be more asking questions then giving answers.
Appreciate the quick response, I'll be going below deck, as my last linear drive was never a problem.
Gary from Long Island NY

I purchased a 2004 Catalina 36 and one of the first things I removed was the wheel pilot. Actually the TV was first, but the pilot was a close second.

If you're on a pleasant beam reach or motoring, a wheel pilot will work fine. If you're upwind with a few wind shifts and waves, or running downwind in a strong wind, then the wheel pilot is borderline, sometimes even hopeless.

The below decks pilot has enough power and speed of response, I can use it under most any conditions. I do wish it had an alarm or warning against being overpowered. Sometimes I have taken over steering the boat only to find I cannot hold and sustain what the autopilot was doing. We have a "rudder center" mark on the wheel and when I notice that the wheel is being held at 75 to 80 degrees from center (ie: rudder is dragging sideways) then I know it's time to reduce sail. The electronics never tells me, but I notice that it's working way harder than it should.

One thing I've noticed about the newer Raymarine pilot is how advanced the steering is when it incorporates the gyroscope input. CPT is an older style product. I really don't know if it uses more than compass input. I do know that you can get superior control out of a pilot that uses both gyroscope and compass as inputs. It seems to steer more to the waves when it feels the stern rising on the waves.

A couple of additional considerations:

1) A linear pilot connects directly to the rudder post. This allows it to be used as backup if the cable or steering mechanism breaks. It would be better if it had manual controls for that, like a tiller pilot does, but it least it can do something.

2) Premium models are hydraulic. They can have lots of power but be aware of the current draw. Larger autopilots can kill a battery pretty quickly.

3) Sailing up wind in a steady breeze about 5 to 10 degrees off pointing as high as you can, is generally self stable on most boats. Forget the pilot, lock the wheel, and you can go all day in a straight line.

4) Autopilots often have names. Seems a common practice to give it a name. Ours has always been called Mr. Christian, as on the Bounty.

[QUOTE=SailorJackson;16409]
4) Autopilots often have names. Seems a common practice to give it a name. Ours has always been called Mr. Christian, as on the Bounty.[/QUOTE]

Mine is affectionately called "The Idiot". People always look around in confusion when I say, "I think I'll let The Idiot steer for awhile". It has several, less affectionate names, all containing 4 letter words inappropriate for the forum :rolleyes:

My first Cat 36 had a below decks linear autopilot and it was a dream (God, how I miss that boat). Along with it's great steering, I also liked the idea of having emergency steering should the wheel steering assembly break. With the direct linkage to the rudder, you can just steer the boat with the remote should anything go wrong. When my 4000 gives up, I'll get a below decks for this boat.

Mike