I've always had someone else do it, and then started thinking, how hard can it be?
It appears i have a Universal M35BC.
Last week I changed the off engine Racor filter, and it was pretty easy. The only thing i missed was turning off fuel supply first.
I read my owner's manual first, and it said to shut off the fuel before starting, but i didn't see a shut off valve anywhere.
When i removed the filter, the fuel would not stop flowing, so i put it back on. I removed the fuel tank access board down below, and could see a
shut off valve on top of the tank. Went topside, and found an access port in my lazarette. Dumbass!
I removed old filter, filled new filter with diesel, and reinstalled with no problem.
I started engine, and it ran for 10 seconds, sputtered, and shut off. I restarted with a little throttle, and it started back up, and ran fine.
I would like to try replacing on engine filter next, but am very concerned about air bubbles, and having to bleed something if engine doesn't run.
Fuel dock guys said there may be some sort of manual fuel primer pump thing with a bleed screw, that i would work first, after filter replacement, but before i start engine. Couldn't find that in my owner's manual, and will have to take a closer look at engine today.
I'm sure i will eventually be able to figure it out, but i have friends in town from out of state who i am supposed to take out sailing tomorrow.
I would hate to attempt filter today, have a problem, and not be able to take them out tomorrow.
I am considering just replacing the filter next weekend, after i take them out.
Is this air bubble thing a real possibility that could prevent me from getting my engine started after filter replacement,
or am i unduly concerned about nothing?
Thanks for infinite wisdom and guidance.
Blair White
2004 C36 MKII # 2169 "Dash"
Pacific Beach, CA
Blair - I am glad that you are looking for help first. It was a near disaster on my first attempt.
1) Turn off the fuel valve from the lazarett.
2) Open the fuel drain that is under the Racor Primary water separator filter. Have a contained that will hold about 20 OZ of liquid under it and drain all the fuel that you can.
3) Twist and remove the filter
4) Remove the clear portion and clean with paper towel.
5) Reassemble the filter. Close the drain.
6) Open the fuel valve at the top of the tank.
7) From the cockpit - turn the ignition key two clicks and hold. You will hear clicking from the engine area. This is the fuel pump priming the fuel.
You must hold the key in this position for about 20 seconds.
Go down below and see if the fuel filter has filled with fuel. If not repeat the process above until it is full of fuel.
8) When full, press the start button. It will start with a hesitation. Once starts - increase its RPM
Done. Happy Sailing.
Sail La Vie 1999 Catalina 36 MKII, M35B-17031, Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA
About Sail La Vie
Haro,
Thanks for your input.
I believe the fuel filter you are referring to is the one i did last week.
I am talking about the second fuel filter that is actually mounted on the engine.
Blair White
2004 C36 MKII # 2169 "Dash"
Pacific Beach, CA
My mistake - Blair.
I have M36B. I have never had to bleed the air, but if you have to, I guess you will have to face that some day.
When I replace the fuel filter I empty the fuel from the filter into a cup and some small particles drain out.
In my opinion - it is worth the $10.00 fuel filter even if you do not need it.
But if it causes your engine to not run well - it is well worth it.
Haro
Sail La Vie 1999 Catalina 36 MKII, M35B-17031, Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA
About Sail La Vie
I have read in previous posts that most people do not change that second filter. It is actually a larger micron filter than the primary Racor that you have already changed, and the reason it is even there is a bit of a puzzler. Again, I'm going off of memory here, but I recall reading numerous posts about that filter and concluding that I would just leave it as-is for now and change out my Racor each year at a minimum. Secondly, those of us with the M35 are blessed with a "self bleeding" feature on the fuel system. Most other diesels you have to go through a bit of drama to bleed the air out of the system, but ours does it by itself via a lift pump. When you turn the ignition on and hold the glow plug button, the fuel system bleeds itself.
Don Lincoln
"Nancy Lynn"
1993 Catalina MK1.5, Hull 1238
LaSalle, MI (Lake Erie)
Universal M-35AC
Blair.... changing the filter you are referring to is easy. I always fill each filter with fuel from a small extra can I keep for that purpose so you don't have to jump from the cabin and the cockpit turning the ignition key. I fill the filter and hand tighten it , then back off a slight (very slight ) turn.
I then try to start it. The engine will turn over a few times, then "cough" like it's trying to start. At that point I tighten the filter all the way down and start it. Never had an air lock doing it this way in the 14 years I've had the boat.
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Several folks have installed separate power switches to the lift pump. That way you can run the pump for a couple minutes to get out all the air - no need to prefill the bowls/filter or keep a container of fuel around.
My switch is on a pendant to I can open the on engine bleed nut while standing by to tighten it at the first sign on fuel. My M25 was not at all self bleeding when I got it, bleed nuts for both primary and secondary filters. Now I only do the on engine filter bleed nut, as I retrofit the knurled knob into the fuel system.
I have ave further modified the fuel system to change filters with just a 5 second switch and reposition of valves. Takes longer to move cusions than “change” the filter. See a past Mainsheet for details
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore