Sherwood raw water pump repair or replacement ...now troubles

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TomR's picture
TomR
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Sherwood raw water pump repair or replacement ...now troubles

Over the winter while on the hard I replaced my Sherwood impeller for the first time on my own. Watched the Youtube video and was very proud by what I thought was an accomplishment. Starting up for the season it seemed to work great. Water coming out the exhaust & temp remaining cool. Then I noticed a pool of water on the floor of my companion way. 

I quickly turned the motor off and investigated. It looked like water was coming out of the space between the cover & the pump. I thought maybe I didn't tighten the bolts on enough. I was careful putting on the new rubber O ring & paper gasket which came with the impeller replacement kit. 

Thought maybe I could just snug the the bolts a little. Then my troubles started. I broke the head off the first bolt I tried to snug. It didn't take much of an effort. It broke right off. Now I have a leaking Sherwood pump with a broken bolt. 

I'll have to get the pump off. Should I just buy a new one? Wonder if the existing pump is repairable? Or should I switch to an Oberdoefer? I have a 2000 C36 with a Universal M35B. I think the Sherwood may be original, but I'm not sure. (I'm the 3rd owner & this is my 5th season with the boat) Sail in the northern Chesapeake. I've been reading about possible issues switching to an Oberdoefer if you have a M35B because it needs a higher cooling water flow. A new Sherwood price is outrageous, but it may be my only option. Any suggestions or recommendations would be a big big help. 

Thanks,
Tom
 

 

Tom Runiewicz
ObLaDi ObLaDa
Catalina 36 MkII, Wing Keel, Tall Rig
Hull #1998
North East, MD
 

EUREKA's picture
EUREKA
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Posts: 119

Have a look at Big Blue Ocean marine, they have Westerbake (Sherwood ) replacement pumps at a discount price.
Just a thought.

Eladio Vallina

C-36 TR EUREKA II
Hull 1122 (1991)
Home port Barcelona (Spain).

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Posts: 387

Tom,
Sorry for your troubles.Call DEPCO in Clearwater (Tampa)  and ask if they will repair a Sherwood pump and what the cost would be. It's worth a phone call.  They are on the web at  http://www.depcopump.com/    Many times it takes a few more parts to fully rebuild these pumps - more than just installing new seals and a new impeller. Water could be leaking as a result of a scored pump shaft.  I had that problem years ago with my Sherwood and went immediately to the Oberdorfer pump on my M-35. It has worked fine here in Florida for many years. There are many posts here on this site regarding the installation of the Oberdorfer pump. If you do decide on the Oberdorfer, check around for prices at Depco -  Cardinal Pump in St. Louis and similar suppliers. Also, the Oberdorfer sells an installation kit (different part number)  that contains new mounting ears and new elbows for fitting the pump to the engine. (Check my earlier posts for the part numbers or ask DEPCO) It will take you less than an hour to install a new Oberdorfer if you get the kit.
Good Luck,
Bill 
PS; Read post #11 of this article; https://www.catalina36.org/forum/technical-discussion/update-oberdorfer-...

Bill Dolan 1990 Catalina C-36 MKI - Hull #1041  'Williwaw'
Std. Rig, Walk Through, Wing Keel
M35, Oberdorfer Conversion,
Home Waters; Charlotte  Harbor & The Gulf Islands of Florida
'You are never out of work if you own a boat'

 

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Haro
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I replaced my sherwood with OBERDORFER with no problem. The correct one is N202M-16 
visit my signature website for images of how to install and how to replace the seals and impeller. 

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TomR
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Posts: 38

I do see that Big Blue Ocean Marine has raw water pump for half the price of CD Sherwood.
It's a JPR-WB7108 JPM Westerbeke. Site says it's a replacement for the Sherwood B908.
Has anyone bought & successfully installed the Westerbeke with no problems or modifications?
My other option would be to go with the Oberforfer N202M-908, but I have the M35B motor and I'm a little worried about overheating with the B version motor. CD raised my concern. The Cheasepake water can get quite warm in the summer.
Just look for others who have gone down this path. Suggestions greatly appreciated. 

Tom Runiewicz
ObLaDi ObLaDa
Catalina 36 MkII, Wing Keel, Tall Rig
Hull #1998
North East, MD
 

EUREKA's picture
EUREKA
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Yes! I did last year and, until now, working perfect.

Eladio Vallina

C-36 TR EUREKA II
Hull 1122 (1991)
Home port Barcelona (Spain).

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Catboat Willy
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Posts: 387

Tom;
In the 'For what it's worth colum .
Great that you found the Big Blue Ocean price. But to answer you concern; We've used the Oberdorfer here in Florida where the water temperature can reach 92 F in summer and see no problems with the engine cooling. Engine cooling can be effected by several things. Your thermostat 160 or 190 F ? Your heat exchanger 2" or 3". Here in Florida we have a three inch exchanger and a 190F thermostat. Our summer water temperature reaches 92 F. and we have no problems with the Oberdorfer.
We are using the Oberdorfer N202-908 with the round base. (No grinding required and direct replacement for the Sherwood)
The Oberdorfer model N202M-16 you will have to grind off some of the bronze bottom lip of the pump housing to get it to fit on to the M35B engine as Joel did
The Oberdorfer model N202M-837  is a kit that contains the N202-908 pump.(Round base) Two new pipe  elbows (as the ones you currently are using -will have to be cut (shortened) to fit it to the pump)
two brass mounting clamps or ears to hold the pump too the engine, two high tensile strength bolts for fitting the assembly to the engine and a gasket.
Depending on how you approach this, using the kit model will take you less than an hour to install.

Hints;
Use new hose clamps.
Label the water pump intake and out put hoses so as not to mix them up when you put it back together.
Turn the engine  inlet water sea cock OFF to avoid draining too much water out of the system.
Squirt some dish washer soap into the pump  to avoid a dry start on the impeller.
I never found it necessary to burp the water system as the amount of water lost is very small.
 Make sure the water inlet sea cock is turned back ON and that you are pumping water after the start. 

You can always PM me is you run into difficulty.
Good Luck and keep us posted
Bill
PS: Yea that actually a M-35 engine. They repainted repainted it in Universal gold when they rebuilt it. Grrr !
You want to check out the Big Blue Ocean Marine # JPR-WB7108 pump. Although, have no experience with that pump., It looks like that might fit the bill as well. 

Bill Dolan 1990 Catalina C-36 MKI - Hull #1041  'Williwaw'
Std. Rig, Walk Through, Wing Keel
M35, Oberdorfer Conversion,
Home Waters; Charlotte  Harbor & The Gulf Islands of Florida
'You are never out of work if you own a boat'

 

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TomR
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Bill, thanks for your suggestions. I will follow them. Just before your post I bought the Westerbeke. I didn't want to delay any longer and felt more comfortable staying as close to what I had as possible. My next chore is to get my old pump off. I'm the 3 owner and I have no idea how long the current pump has been on. I hope it's easier than it looks.  I'll post later how I make out. 

Tom

Tom Runiewicz
ObLaDi ObLaDa
Catalina 36 MkII, Wing Keel, Tall Rig
Hull #1998
North East, MD
 

KWKloeber
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Posts: 10

My question is, on the original Universals (e.g., M-35) or the Westerbeke/Universal "A" engines (e.g., M-35A) with the pump land on the starboard side of the gear cover ("non B" engines) why would anyone replace a Sherwood with an EXPENSIVE Oberdorfer M-908?  The less expensive Oberdorfer N202M-16 is the pump to install to replace the Sherwood G903 or G908 or M5 or any other one.  I've done a ton of pump switches over 25 years and include stainless steel studs to permanently install and nylock flange nuts (pictured,) rather than bolts into the crappy Kubota aluminum gear cover.

No 3 or 4-cylinder engine owner has ever reported an issue with water flow/engine temperature using the Oberdorfer M-16 pump. 

BTW, the Kubota gasket for that pump land is better than the Westerbeke gasket and the one I always recommend (pictured.)

BTW also the new expensive hose elbows that are supplied in a kit are nothing more than PEX elbows and are brass (which are not approved for below water line and especially not for salt.)  There is no reason to replace them, the Sherwood's elbows very easily fit with 2 minutes and a Dremel or file (the ones pictured are from an M-25XPB) which BTW are also cast brass and not approved.

Ken Kloeber
"Positive Impact"

Lake Norman NC

1984 C30 #3573
TRBSFK M-25

 

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Haro
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Ken, I was think of installing studs just the way you have done. Did you use blue Loctite on the studs? They are aluminum studs or stainless steel screw rods?
 

KWKloeber
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Posts: 10

I do recommend a thread locker.  Clean the threads well w/ a solvent/swap to remove any oil; dry fit them; use loctite; tighten down by double nutting or w/ a needle nose locking plier.

They are custom ordered stainless steel studs from the UK,  What's needed is double-threaded studs, unequal length.  I believe what I have for overall length is like 28mm to use for only the flat mount Ob pump, or 32mm if one wants to be able to use the Sherwood L-clips -- if one keeps the old Swood for an emergency or is using the round base pump.

Ken Kloeber
"Positive Impact"

Lake Norman NC

1984 C30 #3573
TRBSFK M-25

 

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