Wondering if anyone has an antifreeze tester that they use to confirm their AF hasn't diluted during the winterization process. I've read many of the posts on the forum, and see that some go to great lengths to ensure the highest concentration remains. I want collect some AF and test it after it comes out the exhaust port.
Can anyone recommend a good tester? I see simple (cheap) testers and slightly more expensive refractometers. Curious to know if anyone tests the specific gravity of the AF after they've completed running AF through the raw water cooling system and what they use. Thanks!
Mike
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Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
Mike,
I use a Napa specific gravity tester to check the freeze protection in our engine circulating cooling system but never considered using it on the raw water side. I don't see a reason why it won't work.
When we winterize I start by draining the waterlift muffler then run 2 gallons -50 propylene glycol antireeze until I reach significant pink at the exhaust. Very unsientific but it seems to work. In the past I've used 3 gallons but the color was about the same.
Another method would be to collect a sample then put it in your home freezer. Our kitchen freezer is set at Zero so it would give a real world indication on how sucessful the purge is.
Good luck,
Ray
Ray & Janice Taylor
"Mizu"
Hood River, Ore.
#2113 2002 TM
I would suggest, before circulating the propylene glycol, that you also drain the heat exchanger (good time to change the anode, anyway), and maybe loosen the cover on the raw water pump to drain it, too. You want to eliminate as much as you can the dilution factor.
Also, take a look at Mainesail's recommendations here: https://marinehowto.com/engine-winter-freeze-protection/ . He doesn't think 2 gallons are sufficient.
Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY
Thanks Ray, I've never drained the water-lift muffler. I know it could be needed if you ever find yourself cranking an engine that wont start, but I've not been in that boat, not yet. Could you walk me through the steps to drain the water-lift? Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
There should be a petcock at the bottom of the muffler. Open it and let the raw water drain out, then close before running the antifreeze through the raw water system. There are some pictures on this thread:
www.catalina36.org/forum/technical-discussion/aqua-lift-muffler-catalina-mkii-1997-cant-figure-out-how-drain
Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY
Thanks guys!
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
Mike,
Draining the water lift muffler is pretty straight foreword. On the aft, bottom (near hull) startboard side of the muffler there is a drain cock. Simply open the wings and drain the liquid.
These get clogged with muffler goo when not used, so bring a short section of wire. I also use a cresent wrench to open the valve (finger tight to close).
Note that the muffler drains to the galley deck instead of the bilge, so have some paper towels handy.
Ray
Ray & Janice Taylor
"Mizu"
Hood River, Ore.
#2113 2002 TM
Matt/Ray, thanks much. Seems easy enough. Mine is a rusty mess, just like the pictures in the old thread you provided.
Standard threading? Lefty loosey? Sometimes threaded things inside a threaded thing are reverse threaded.
Also, last winter during layup, the fresh water coolant (AF) leaked as the temp fluctuated. Never really figured out where it was coming from. (Did NOT leak during the sailing season). The engine is due for a coolant flush anyway I was thinking about draining all the AF out of the fresh water cooling circuit (engine manual shows a drain screw toward the bottom of the port side of the engine block). Then in the spring, rinsing through with fresh water, then adding the 50/50 mix. Any thoughts on that? Would I be inviting more rust and corrosion if the circuit were to be empty during the winter?
Thanks again
Mike
1999, MKII, #1796, Wing Keel, In-mast furling
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
On our Catalina 28 the wing part of the drain valve was turned all the way out when closed. So to drain it you turned it clockwise, our 36 is opposite. When you look at the photo the wing part is all the way in (like our 36) to drain it you would turn counter clockwise. The Readers Digest version of this story is that it can be either way. Take a look and it will probably make sense.
I’d advise against leaving the coolant system drained for the winter. I’d be worried about additional corrosion and rust. I’d also be concerned about low point solids hardening in the passages. Antifreeze is composed of more than glycol (for freeze protection) it has additives to minimize corrosion and chelants to keep minerals (mostly calcium,magnesium, and iron) in suspension.
Ray & Janice Taylor
"Mizu"
Hood River, Ore.
#2113 2002 TM
Thanks Ray, great info, I'll do the flush and refill it. And I expect I'll be mopping it from beneath the engine occasionally. Now I have to go Google chelants.
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
We experience some minimal leakage of antifreeze after changing out hoses a couple of years ago. I found that it was just the hose clamps that needed snugging up. Using the bright orange diesel antifreeze makes it fairly easy to locate leaks if you crawl around with a flashlight from near the floor.
Kevin Lenard
"Firefly"
'91 C-36 Mk. "1.5" Tall Rig, Fin Keel, Hull #1120, Universal M-35 original (not "A" or "B")
CBYC, Scarborough, Lake Ontario, Canada