I haven't posted about my restoration project for a while because I've been so busy with it: Tearing out 30 yr old wiring, deciding on battery config, making lists, ordering expensive bits, and reading reading reading!
Having read that the 90A Leece-Neville LN-110-603 was a "direct replacement" for the original 51Amp 110-389, I was surprised to find that the mounting foot was actually half as wide (1" instead of 2") and takes a wider bolt (1/2" vs 3/8"). A call back to ASE referred me to a local dealer who sells a so-called "118-2 kit" : 1"spacer and a 3/8 to 1/2" sleeve... apparently standard stuff, for $8.00.
[U]My confusion now[/U] is about the important bracket upgrade. I've just read that the M25XP already has the heavy duty bracket. No need to upgrade. And I see the picture of "the old bracket" on the C34 wiki site [URL="http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion..."]here.[/URL] Which doesn't look like mine.
Grateful if someone could look at my engine pic below and confirm that it's the heavy duty bracket, (possibly on a M25XP)
Thank you!
More pics to come once I get some of that cool ABYC [B][COLOR="Yellow"][COLOR="Black"]yellow[/COLOR][/COLOR][/B] ground wire in.:rolleyes:
M25 or XP with strong bracket?
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E3yHWGMAcdw/UqEv1GWR_JI/AAAAAAAAHh0/n...
Leece-Neville 90A 110-603 and 51A 110-389
[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-49jPuhNJvmk/UqEvDQot68I/AAAAAAAAHhs/G...
Paul & Ann -
"Freestyle" -
1985 C36 #454 -
North Puget Sound, WA
Paul,
That IS the better bracket. If you have an M25XP it CAME with the upgraded bracket. If it's an M25, someone upgraded the bracket.
Sleep tight! :)
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
Thanks Stu.
I'm in awe... An answer from the MAN himself! I don't know HOW many of your technical/electrical threads I've read the past month or so! Thanks Stu for your great contribution! :)
Paul
Paul & Ann -
"Freestyle" -
1985 C36 #454 -
North Puget Sound, WA
Paul, you are (along with quite a few other owners here) an inspiration with what you are tackling and how well you seem to be doing. Keep up the great work and keep sharing.
Cheers,
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/
Paul,
I agree with Stu. That is the upgraded bracket. Unless your engine was replaced, you have the M25, as the M25XP didn't come out until 1987. It's also important to check to make sure the PO did the wiring harness upgrade. Can't tell from the pix. Those molded plugs are BAD. Regarding the belt, check the pulleys on the water pump and engine. Not sure they are 1/2", and I've been told it's important to have the belt the same size as the pulleys, and not larger. Pulleys are easy to change on the alternator, but not cheap on the engine. Nor are double pulleys. Hope this helps.
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
Thanks Duane & Tom,
As I said in my [URL="http://www.c36ia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2587"]1st post, introducing this boat & project[/URL], the previous (& second) owner did a fair amount of restoration while it sat on a trailer in his back yard (for 6 years!). Mostly he did hull cleanup & motor replacement. I'm calling my part [U]"Phase 3"[/U] of the restoration. (The original, [B][I]Original[/I][/B] owner started and stopped with the upholstery 6 yrs ago):(
So, that said Tom, the engine [U]wiring[/U] with this new/used (alleged 400hr) motor looks new. I haven't traced it out yet to check the ammeter wiring issue. There are, however, some orphan wires at both ends of the harness... Later...
Here is the original motor which previous/second/"phase2" owner replaced.
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9ihFnZHZmw8/UqHqQH-5GrI/AAAAAAAAHio/O...
And the new/used/possibly 400hr current motor... must be an XP. Yes, you can see the alt bracket difference.
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XpysEOE3UpA/UqHq1IMRiyI/AAAAAAAAHiw/L...
Paul & Ann -
"Freestyle" -
1985 C36 #454 -
North Puget Sound, WA
Paul,
Yuck! That old/original motor looks awful!!! Newer one is so much prettier! A couple of comments. Nice to see the chafe protection on the hoses going past the stbd fwd motor mount to the W/H. Once the engine has a few hours of operation under its belt, it would be good to go over every hose carefully, and put more chafe protection on any hose that rubs against anything sharp. Easy and cheap to do. One of the mounting bolts on the port fwd motor mount looks to be loose. The hose between the water pump and thermostat housing looks to be crimped. The crankcase ventilation hose is missing. As is, oil vapors will make the engine compartment and boat smell during and after motoring. Best to install one. When installing the new 90A alternator, make sure you upgrade the wiring to the batteries (both + and -). The OEM 4 gauge is not big enough. Not sure how to tell if the newer engine is a M25 or a M25XP. Other than the two additional ponies (21 vs 23), the two major changes were a larger (3") HX and upgraded alternator bracket, but both of those could be added to a M25. Only sure way to find out (if it matters to you) is to check the serial number with W/U. Also, when the time comes, you will LOVE the Oberdorfer raw water pump. So nice and easy to swap impellers (4 screws, right in front!), compared to the Sherwood on some engines. Hope this helps.
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
Tom is right about the breather hose, smells and makes mess . I installed a Racor closed crankcase vent system and no smell and no oil mess. I ran it into a K&N air filter. I saw were Tom ran it straight into the manifold with no crankcase filter and I am guessing it worked fine
Bill Miller
S/V Lorraine
Pacific Northwest,Sound Sound
Grapeview,Wa
1990 Mk1
I was wondering if anyone had a similar situation to mine. I just finished installing the upgrade bracket on an M25 and encountered the usual Metric 10mm bolt and the 3/8 in SAE bolt problems with fit. Seems my best fit in the bracket hole is with the 10mm bolt AND the thin sleeve (provided to bring SAE 3/8 up to 10mm) to fit the bracket, but then it does not fit through the 1 inch adapter for the single mounting foot of the alternator. Seems the simple solution is to cut the thin sleeve, putting about 1/4 inch of it on the front and back of the bolt assembly as it passes through the bracket.
I have read of others doing this upgrade and no mention of anything similar to my problem. The bracket hole though, appears to be over 10 mm!
The 10 mm bolt fits nicely through the foot adapter alone, as does the SAE bolt with the sleeve adapter to bring it up to 10mm.
Any ideas or similar experiences?
Stay warm, and work on your winter projects now!
Gary
Gary Matthesen
"Holiday"
1987 #50646
Oyster Bay Long Island NY