Tank valves

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VermontSailor's picture
VermontSailor
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Posts: 100
Tank valves

I made the same pump change that Bruce Landsberg did with the Surflo 2.8 GPM Pump. [URL="http://www.c36ia.com/node/422"]http://www.c36ia.com/node/422[/URL]

I liked the idea of the valves in the self under the stove. I have an AC hose running through that area and if I can move it at some point I would prefer to put a draw in that spot. Someone had done that in an old Mainsheet article.

The vertical door under the sink is useless and I hate wasted space, when it is at a premium on a 36 foot sailboat. I reused the existing valves. Changing to the bronze valve would have been an improvement over the PVC valves, but the length of the handles might be a problem within the narrow area of the vertical door. Probably doable, but I cheaped out and reused the existing manifold. I was concerned about moving the valves to a higher position than the original placement, allowing the water to drain back into the tanks, but so far that has not been a problem. I had planned to add check valves if that turned out to be a problem. I have a check valve on one tank and have not noticed a difference.

I did have one problem with one of the T-fittings that cracked, out of sight, allowing air to get sucked into the system when the pump was running, but it was not large enough to leak water. Be careful to not over tighten PVC fittings

The valves are mounted on a U-shaped platform I added over the existing drain hose.

Nile Schneider
Mañana C36 #1798
Lake Champlain, VT

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GaryB
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Posts: 584

Nice job, I just made a new manifold for my water tanks and wanted to place my system there to be able to reach the valves without pulling cusions. Unfortunately that is where I put the regulator and combiner for my charging system. Looking at your pic's though it appears there is more room in the MkII than the MkI. I used 1/2" PVC valves and the assembly kept as short as possible and even with 90 deg. elbows like yours would not fit. It appears you made a platform as well?
I'm currious about the foil insulation you placed around your water heater, can you elaborate some about that?

Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine

VermontSailor's picture
VermontSailor
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Posts: 100

I had put in a new hot water heater and I covered it with foil covered bubble wrap that you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes for covering household hot water heaters. Use Aluminum foil tape to hold it together. It significantly extends how long your water stays hot. If you happen to the run engine for an hour or so during the day you will have hot water the next morning and warm water for the rest of the day.

Nile Schneider
Mañana C36 #1798
Lake Champlain, VT

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GaryB
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Thanks, I'm familiar with the material. I was curious if you had gotten a good benefit. I am playing with the same material now to replace those insulated boxes under the icebox lids.

Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine

windward1
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Joined: 9/18/09
Posts: 146

Gary,
I have line the inside of the fridge with that bubble wrap using two sided tape and use a loose piece laying over the top under the lid. It seems to help. Just don't spill a lot of stuff.

Richard
1994 C36 Tall Rig M1.5
Waukegan Harbor
Lake Michigan

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GaryB
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Posts: 584

Richard,
I purchased one of those thermal blankets for good $ about 2 years ago. Last year I used it on a 250 year old house we owned before giving to my son. We used it between the boarding in boards and studs and it does well over the horsehair plaster. While at Homedepot they had a display with it on bothsides of the studs claiming an 45R value. Long story short I though I would use it to replace the foam boxes and allow more space in the icebox. I'm also thinking it may be easier to wrap around the outside where others have used the ridgid insulation. I think Randy Sherwood has a post showing where he used rigid on the inside and covered with vynal (your comment on spills).

Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine

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ProfDruhot
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Joined: 2/8/09
Posts: 354

One of the first (of many) projects on Carpe Diem was to relocate the three valves for the onboard water. I placed them beneath the settee in the main salon. They are accessible there and work just fine.

Glenn Druhot
Carpe Diem
New Bern, NC
35* 6' 10" N / 77* 2' 30" W
2001 C36, Hull #1965
Std Rig; Wing Keel; M35B

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