Things you wish you had known when you bought it

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andreshs1's picture
andreshs1
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Things you wish you had known when you bought it

Hi all

As a new C36MkII owner I am still living the dream (hopefully for many years to come....) but I would like to know all those little things that eventually became a costly (or no so costly) problem with your boats but could have been easily fixed when you got her home.

What are the tricks of the boat?:confused:

Regards
Andres

Andres & Arantzazu
S/V "Carpe Diem"
Hull: 1773
1999 C36 mkII
Hong Kong
http://www.abclubhk.com/

jmcelwee
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Posts: 102

Find and fix the leak. Way better than replacing the cabin sole after years of water damage.

Josh McElwee
Sailing from East Greenwich, RI
2000 C36 MKII, M35B, "Chinook", Hull#1900

stu jackson c34's picture
stu jackson c34
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That's a pretty open ended question.

My experience has been this: When we bought our boat in 1998 it was 12 years old, but in pristine condition. The PO was kind enough to save every copy of [I]Mainsheet [/I]magazine from as long ago as 1987! I READ them all. And not only the C34 material; the C30 and C36 stuff was great, too. Remember, this was well before the internet and these kinds of message boards, forums and websites. I then became quite active in the building of our C34 website and "information gathering and retrieval." I also participate in other boards, like this one, especially because there are so many similarities between your boats and ours that they could be considered almost identical.

I recommend that you read the great information that your C36 Officers and web folks have put together here on the website for you. It will be well worth your time. This forum is a great tool for asking questions and a search engine is a valuable tool to learn what others have done on the forum, but the main C36 website has a fantastic amount of great info.

Welcome and good luck.

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

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deising
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Previous advice is excellent.

One other thing: You engine (like mine) might have been made without a steel sleeve at the end of the camshaft to help support the "ears" that drive the raw water pump. Make sure that sleeve is in place. Many owners had to request that sleeve and install it; it is very easy.

Even with the sleeve, those "ears" are a weak point. It is probably VERY rare, but my camshaft "ears" broke off (about 2500 hours) and I had to install a new camshaft. Along with that, make sure you watch your raw water pump carefully for any leakage of water (especially salt water). If the seals wear and allow salt water into the bearings, they can rust after sitting idle for a while. That is not good.

Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/

stu jackson c34's picture
stu jackson c34
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Good advice. We "built" a "Critical Upgrades" topic, your board may have something similar. It includes a lot of electrical and engine material.

Good luck.

[url]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html[/url]

The Westerbeke/Universal engine bulletins are, well, Critical. :eek:

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

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Capt. Sam
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Learn where the three fuel filters are and if there's no record of them being changed, then change them and start a record by engine hours. Find the "Hidden Zincs" that are in the heat exchanger. Pull the plug and change as needed. Inspect the engine belt and probably just change it too if there's no record of when it was last changed. Be sure to add a spares kit to your locker with spare filters (all three), spare zincs and any other parts that are routinely replaced. (fuses, light bulbs etc) Make up a maintenance log for Oil changes, transmission oil changes, engine coolant changes and anything else that requires periodic preventive maintenance. Get a loose leaf binder for the log and keep it aboard with the other ships papers.
There's more but I can't think of any more right now.
Best of luck and fair winds.
Sam

Capt. Sam Murphy
1994 Catalina 36, Hull 1327
Shoal draft, two cabin model.
Panama City, Florida

BudStreet
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The center chainplate can leak without you being aware of it. Check the bulkheads around where the center chainplate is attached, look for any soft wood or signs of rot. If this chainplate leaks you probably will not know it, the water runs behind the chainplate and rots the bulkhead out. Look carefully at the bulkheads, especially at the bottom of the chainplate, for water damage. Unless your surveyor was very familiar with Catalina 36s he probably missed looking hard enough at that area.

Consider getting the 2 of the new style chainplate covers with the raised lip from Catalina and install them, they are cheap and provide better sealing surfaces than the old flat ones.

FlyMeAway
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[QUOTE=Capt. Sam;17365]Learn where the three fuel filters are[/QUOTE]

Three fuel filters!?! Am I missing something quite serious or do you mean two oil filters and a fuel filter?

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

andreshs1's picture
andreshs1
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Hi all

yes, I am waiting for my Paypal account to be verified so I can fully join and start reading the tech posts

Thanks for the tips on the engine, I'll make sure to do the checks.

what about electrics?
the PO was telling me that we can only use the power sockets while plugged to shore, but what about while at anchor? what can I do to have full electrics? I have an infant and a new born arriving in June, and the TV is a must for the kids so the parents can get some quite time:D

regards
Andres

Andres & Arantzazu
S/V "Carpe Diem"
Hull: 1773
1999 C36 mkII
Hong Kong
http://www.abclubhk.com/

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gforaker
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[QUOTE=andreshs1;17371]Hi all

yes, I am waiting for my Paypal account to be verified so I can fully join and start reading the tech posts

Thanks for the tips on the engine, I'll make sure to do the checks.

what about electrics?
the PO was telling me that we can only use the power sockets while plugged to shore, but what about while at anchor? what can I do to have full electrics? I have an infant and a new born arriving in June, and the TV is a must for the kids so the parents can get some quite time:D

regards
Andres[/QUOTE]

If you want TV at anchor you have 3 choices.

1. Use an inverter. It can be a permanent mount heavy duty one or just a cheap Walmart one powerful enough for just your TV.

2. Find a TV that will work on 12 volts. They are more common than you may realize and I even saw one nice LED/LCD at Best Buy that had an external "brick" transformer. The TV itself ran on 12 volts. Also try a large truck stop for 12 volt appliances. Newer LED/LCD Tv's use much less power than in the past.

3. Use a Honda generator like many other C36 owners. Most here use the Honda for air conditioning or battery charging, but no reason you couldn't watch TV.

I raised 2 kids on board with no TV. Yes, you have to pay them more attention, but they turn out better or are better able to entertain themselves. Today I would try an Apple iPad as a special treat before I'd run a TV at anchor.

OOPs, I just saw that you are in Hong Kong, so forget about truck stops and Walmart. I am sure that you have no end of discount electronics available, though.

Gene Foraker
Sandusky Yacht Club
Sandusky, OH
1999  C36  #1786
Gypsy Wagon

BudStreet
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[quote=FlyMeAway;17369]Three fuel filters!?! Am I missing something quite serious or do you mean two oil filters and a fuel filter?[/quote]

Three is right. Working from the tank first up is the Racor, then the little one in the bottom of the fuel pump, then the primary on the engine. There is only 1 oil filter.

BudStreet
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Posts: 1127

[quote=andreshs1;17371]Hi all

what about electrics?
the PO was telling me that we can only use the power sockets while plugged to shore, but what about while at anchor? what can I do to have full electrics? I have an infant and a new born arriving in June, and the TV is a must for the kids so the parents can get some quite time:D

regards
Andres[/quote]

Ah, you are about to learn that all those things we take for granted on the power grid are a lot more trouble on a boat. When you start using an inverter to run AC household stuff you'll quickly bump your head against the limitations of making 110V from 12V DC batteries.

Read up on Ohm's law, Watt's law and how amps, volts and watts are all connected and you'll quickly see that making 110V power from 12V is not very efficient. Appliances that run on 12V are the way to go, but still not a total solution.

Running a generator will give you 110AC power, but at the expense of a lot of noise and a lot of gasoline to carry around with you. Solar and wind will help, but the bottom line is whatever you take out of the batteries has to be put back in, and it's not so easy when you are your own power company.

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plaineolde
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[QUOTE=FlyMeAway;17369]Three fuel filters!?! Am I missing something quite serious or do you mean two oil filters and a fuel filter?[/QUOTE]

1) fuel filter/water separator. Usually a Racor, located in the engine compartment near the transmission/shaft. Has a screw on filter and a plastic bowl on the bottom that traps water.
2) fuel pump filter. In the bottom of the fuel pump. The cap on the bottom comes off and the filter/gasket should come right out. fuel pump should be on the rear of the engine (at least it is on my M35A).
3) engine fuel filter. On my 35A, it's on the starboard side of the engine. A spin on filter element that looks like the oil filter.

Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay

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andreshs1
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hi

yes, there are lots of cheap electronic stuff here, but 'Cheap' is the key word, most of it badly done in China, and I rather pay more and get something that underwent some sort of quality control than to buy a .cheap' tv that will set the boat on fire.

But it is true an Ipad or any other tablet would do the trick, I'll check anyway those 12v TV sets, lets,see the best option

as for the generator, rather interesting so we can run an aircon, but I rather wait a save some cash

anyone using fuel cells?

I have seen that many boats in US have microwave ovens, do you also use the inverter for this?

regards

Andres & Arantzazu
S/V "Carpe Diem"
Hull: 1773
1999 C36 mkII
Hong Kong
http://www.abclubhk.com/

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gforaker
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Posts: 133

[QUOTE=andreshs1;17377]hi

yes, there are lots of cheap electronic stuff here, but 'Cheap' is the key word, most of it badly done in China, and I rather pay more and get something that underwent some sort of quality control than to buy a .cheap' tv that will set the boat on fire.

But it is true an Ipad or any other tablet would do the trick, I'll check anyway those 12v TV sets, lets,see the best option

as for the generator, rather interesting so we can run an aircon, but I rather wait a save some cash

anyone using fuel cells?

I have seen that many boats in US have microwave ovens, do you also use the inverter for this?

regards[/QUOTE]

Bud is very correct that inverters are not very efficient. Fortunately the new TV's can use small amounts of current. The best would be to use a 12volt TV for only a small amount of time. You will have plenty of other opportunity to drain your batteries at anchor.

Yes, the microwave was standard equipment on my 1999. It is only a convenience and at anchor with no power the propane stove and oven can do just fine. I really don't miss it.

Gene Foraker
Sandusky Yacht Club
Sandusky, OH
1999  C36  #1786
Gypsy Wagon

stu jackson c34's picture
stu jackson c34
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You might want to consider purchasing Nigel Calder's [I]Boatowners Manual for Mechanical & Electrical Systems[/I]. It's one of the highest rated "how to books" written about boats with complicated systems like those found on boats in our size range. At the very least, try Charlie Wing's [I]Boat Electrical Systems[/I].

There are many ways to run TVs on boats, including the ones mentioned as well as larger screens running off your laptop.

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

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Yes, there are three filters in the fuel line First is the largest one that mainly separates the water, appropriately call the fuel/water separator. Mine is in space aft of the engine near the transmission and the raw water intake for the engine. Second is a bit smaller and is located on the stb side of the engine and looks a bit like the oil filter. and the third is attachéd on the aft end of the engine in a small canister. Some smart member sent me an article about this third "Hidden" filter or I never would have known it was there.
If your engine starts running rough or shuts down with plenty of fuel in the tank, I would want to check all three of these. If you buy the standard spares kit from Catalina, you'll get the second two filters plus an oil filter and appropriate gaskets as well as a spare heat exchanger zinc.
Sam

Capt. Sam Murphy
1994 Catalina 36, Hull 1327
Shoal draft, two cabin model.
Panama City, Florida

FlyMeAway
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[QUOTE=Capt. Sam;17388]Yes, there are three filters in the fuel line First is the largest one that mainly separates the water, appropriately call the fuel/water separator. Mine is in space aft of the engine near the transmission and the raw water intake for the engine. Second is a bit smaller and is located on the stb side of the engine and looks a bit like the oil filter. and the third is attachéd on the aft end of the engine in a small canister. Some smart member sent me an article about this third "Hidden" filter or I never would have known it was there.
If your engine starts running rough or shuts down with plenty of fuel in the tank, I would want to check all three of these. If you buy the standard spares kit from Catalina, you'll get the second two filters plus an oil filter and appropriate gaskets as well as a spare heat exchanger zinc.
Sam[/QUOTE]

Yeah, I'm realizing now that I thought there were two fuel filters and one oil filter (confused because one of the fuel filters specs as an oil filter) -- what I didn't know about was the third fuel filters. Others have clarified. Extremely helpful! I know there's a how-to somewhere on this web site (actually using it to change my oil later today). Thanks.

EDIT:

Actually, reading around the web site, I came back to this article: [url]http://www.c36ia.com/node/858[/url] on which I am relying.

The photo at the top of the article indicates a 2nd oil filter on top of the engine. I may be an idiot but I can't find anything in the manual about this filter. The article then never mentions it again. What's up with this "2nd" filter?

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

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plaineolde
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I think that is the oil "[U]Filler[/U]", not "Filter"???. the text is a bit blurry, so it could be misinterpreted???

Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay

FlyMeAway
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[QUOTE=plaineolde;17393]I think that is the oil "[U]Filler[/U]", not "Filter"???. the text is a bit blurry, so it could be misinterpreted???[/QUOTE]

Hahaha yes, that would make sense. Text is a bit blurry. Thanks!

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

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deepdive
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I do believe there is a small, inline fuel filter at the point where the fuel line connects to the engine. Looks like something that would be on a lawnmower, however, Westerbeke charges $39.00 and some change for it...have yet to find a crossover number for it.

David Edwards
Bridgeton, NC
C36 MK I hull # 11
S/V Starting Over

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John Reimann
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Something else to look out for: Be sure to check the zinc at the end and on the bottom of the heat exchanger. If it hasn't been changed for a long while, it can unscrew out of the little plug that holds it. If that happens, you have a problem, because you can't reach in there to get it out.

My solution to this problem was to get a short piece of copper tubing just small enough to fit inside the hole the zinc goes in. Then I threaded the inside to match the threads on the zinc, screwed it up onto the zinc and pulled it out.

A handy little tool I've used several times. But it's best to simply be sure to check and change that zinc often enough. (Note: At different marinas it will need to be changed at different intervals, so if you move the boat, be sure to check.)

SF Bay
1998 C36

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andreshs1
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Hi all

Thanks so much for the advice, I am building quite a list of things to check!!!:D

Now, today I had water on the floor!! rather smelly actually...and I was quite shocked when I realised that it was coming from the holding tank...:( somehow leaking from the top. I immediately turned on the pump to empty the tank, but I am rather displeased by this (on my second day with the boat) as I would have expected the tank to have an overflow. any ideas??:confused:

regards
Andres

Andres & Arantzazu
S/V "Carpe Diem"
Hull: 1773
1999 C36 mkII
Hong Kong
http://www.abclubhk.com/

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plaineolde
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The holding tank has a vent line that goes up to the stanchion base outside the head. That stanchion has a hole in it near the bottom, that lets the tank vent fluid when it overflows, or suck air when it's being emptied.

However, if you have water coming out of the tank, I'd suspect either a leak in the tank, a hose or hose connection, or maybe even the macerator pump (if you have one). I have a macerator and have found that if I leave the through hull open, water will back up into the tank and fill it. So I never leave that through hull open unless I'm using the macerator.

I'd check all of the hoses including the vent coming off the top of the tank. Hopefully something simple like a loose clamp.!

Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay

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Steve Frost
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I had a slow leak at the macirator through hull fitting, thought it due to my crew drinking all my beer and filling up the holding tank. Fixed the through hull and no longer need to pump the holding tank after every trip. Also switched to fresh water flush, vastly reduceced the odor, another thing I blamed on my crew.

Noted the problem when pumping the head with window open in the head compartment. When the tank is full, the effluent is forced up the vent in the stantion and sprays you in the face as you pump. Nice warning system.

Cleaning and exercising the seacock resolved the problem. My crew still drinks all my beer and now if there is foul odor coming from the vent, they or The capitain are guilty of that as well.

Cepheus dream
C36 MK I # 825
MK I Tech Editor No Mas

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andreshs1
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hi

yes, while I was using the macerator pump to empty the tank I realized that it would fill the tank back up if left open after turning the pump off.

now, there is a T junction on the tube coming out of the tank, one goes to the macerator pump and the other just goes up (could not see where, do you know where this one goes??), additionally there is the excess tube from the top of the tank (the leak is here).

regards

Andres & Arantzazu
S/V "Carpe Diem"
Hull: 1773
1999 C36 mkII
Hong Kong
http://www.abclubhk.com/

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deising
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[QUOTE=andreshs1;17428]now, there is a T junction on the tube coming out of the tank, one goes to the macerator pump and the other just goes up (could not see where, do you know where this one goes??)[/QUOTE]

That goes to the deck fitting where a suction hose evacuates the tank when at a pump-out station.

[QUOTE=andreshs1;17428]additionally there is the excess tube from the top of the tank (the leak is here).[/QUOTE]

I guess that is the best place for a leak as it should be easy to fix. It is not supposed to be for 'excess' but rather to vent the outflow of gas as you fill the tank and allow air to enter as you evacuate the tank.

Good luck!

Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/

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andreshs1
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OK, Thanks for confirming daising

Andres & Arantzazu
S/V "Carpe Diem"
Hull: 1773
1999 C36 mkII
Hong Kong
http://www.abclubhk.com/

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