I dive the bottom during the warmer months, giving it a scrub with a nylon brush. But I love swimming under water and playing shark bait.

Scothbrite pads work great on the metal parts.

Blair and Jason,
One thing I found works even better than a scotchbrite pad is a product by 3M called the Sandblaster. It's designed to go on the end of a portable drill, but I don't use it that way. I took off the mandrel, and just use it in my hand. It easily cleans off the tiny barnacles that grow on the prop and shaft, and it doesn't shred like sponges and pads do. It doesn't dissolve under water, and after a couple of years still looks brand new.
[URL]http://www.amazon.com/3M-SandBlaster-9681-2-Inch-Clean-N-Strip/dp/B000BQ...

Another trick is to run a line from the bow to stern,that allows you to hang on while you clean the upper sections of the hull.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

See if HOLD-TITE is still available. A handle with two big suction cups. Great helper.

I need to get one of those Hold Tite's; I was trying to clean the waterline last weekend and the surface current made it exhausting.

My main problem is the prop and shaft. If I don't clean it for more than a couple seeks, the prop gets fouled enough that the boat will barely move out of the slip. I keep a painters tool onboard to scrape them off the prop, using the curved section to get them off the shaft. The water of the northern Chesapeake is very murky, so quite difficult to see.

My marina will do a mid-season haul and wash for $5 a foot. I usually get it done late summer before the water gets so cold I can't dive on the prop anymore, and pick up a knot of boat speed. More yuck on the bottom than you'd believe. The marina operator says all the boats are the same, doesn't seem to make any difference what paint is used.

[QUOTE=blair;14335][url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Hold-Tite-Suction-Cup-Grab-Handle-Great-Cl...

not sure how it releases.[/QUOTE]

It slides along and you stick your finger under an edge. Easy peasy.

For staying close to the work:

[img]http://www.fotolode.com/images/fstbttms/Hull-cleaning/suctioncup.jpg[/img]

For cleaning the running gear:

[img]http://www.fotolode.com/images/fstbttms/Hull-cleaning/5in1paintingtool1....

[img]http://www.fotolode.com/images/fstbttms/Hull-cleaning/rubbermaidwirebrus...

[QUOTE=fstbttms;14603]For staying close to the work:

[img]http://www.fotolode.com/images/fstbttms/Hull-cleaning/suctioncup.jpg[/img]

For cleaning the running gear:

[img]http://www.fotolode.com/images/fstbttms/Hull-cleaning/5in1paintingtool1....

[img]http://www.fotolode.com/images/fstbttms/Hull-cleaning/rubbermaidwirebrus...

Wow, That scraper and brush are the exact tools I have for my running gear. I've only used the brush in the water though. I may have to try the suction cup thing as well.

I'm also trying to perfect a home made Dry-diver type bottom cleaner to minimize the amount of time I have spend under the boat. We have a lot of stinging nettles on the Chesapeake so the less time spent under the boat the better.

[url]http://dridiver.com/[/url]

I've got about $25 invested so far (10' 1.5" PVC, 1ea-22.5 degree 1.5" angle, 1es-1.5" T fitting, 1ea-1.5 female screw end, 1ea male 1.5" screw end, 3 ea.-1.5" end caps. 1ea backpacking sleep pad, 4ea-scotchbrite pads, a bunch of cable ties) but have yet to perfect the method of attaching the scrubbing part (sleeping pad with scotchbrites attached) to the pole part. The pole itself works pretty darn well for reaching far under the boat. However my pad tends to come loose under the pressure as I pull the pads back from under the boat. I need to improve the connection of pad to pole at the upper end. I made the pole with a threaded fitting in the center to I can take it apart for storage and transport.

I also vastly over-did the amount of flotation which resulted in applying too much pressure. Even though I've removed 1/2 of the pool noodle from my first attempt, I still think I have too much positive bouancy, resulting in a harsher scrub than needed and contributing to the pad bunching up during the upstroke.

Still it did the job for removing 90% of a fairly heavy slime coat which I confirmed while under the boat doing the rudder and running gear. I leave the keel for a short haul but there is usually not as much growth that far down and under the boat were there is less light.

As I race regularally I clean the bottom every three weeks. It is mostly just a light slim and no growth. It usually takes me about 900 lbs of air which is about 30 minutes tops. the handles they are tlking about are slod at West Marine and they ae 14.95 it is the best one to use. they also sell another type with two thumb latches that engaged the cups, I DONT RECOMMEND THAT ONE it doesnt move with you. the one with the blue handle and yellow cups is perfect tfor bottom cleaning because as you move, you can slide it along with you.

REMEBER THIS THOUGH, IF YOU FORGET IT WHILE IT IS ATTACHED TO THE HULL MOST TIMES IT FALLS OFF AND SINKS (TRUST ME ON THIS ONE) I HAVE GONE THRU 4 OF THEM IN TWO YEARS

AS FOR THE PROP AND SHAFT I AGRRE WITH TOM as to cleaning it. this year I used the interlux barnacle zinc spray it worked pefrect. I haven't had to touch the shaft or prop

Jeff, we drilled a hole in the handle and I put a string on it to my wrist. Still have the one I bought in 1987! :)

I use a mitten made out of what appears to be outdoor carpet or the old type of astro turf available at swimming pool supply stores. Works great because it is abrasive and you have one less thing to hold onto. Also the suction cups help alot.

[QUOTE=blair;14791]what do you clean hull with? i have used sponge the first two times, and i moved up to WM lightest scrubbing pad. When done, it had some blue on it, which i am sure is bottom paint. is that to be expected?[/QUOTE]
Most hull cleaners use 3M "Doodlebug" pads.

[img]http://www.fotolode.com/images/fstbttms/Hull-cleaning/3mdoodlebugpads.gi...

Whatever you clean your hull with, it should be the softest media possible. This means never letting your hull get foul to the point that the softest media possible will not remove the growth. In-water hull cleaning [B][I]will[/I][/B] remove paint (especially if you use an ablative paint) but by cleaning relatively frequently (and therefore gently) you will minimize paint removal and can actually dramatically lengthen the lifespan of your paint as opposed to a less frequent, more abrasive cleaning regimen.