I'm looking at a photo of my head and I think that might be your only option. You could also reposition the head about 1" or so and drill new holes, making sure they are far enough away from the old holes so as not to weaken the whole area. I would probably go with the inspection plate. I would use one of those Beckson deck plates for a clean installation....like this.

[url]http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?produ...

Have Fun

Mike

Yeah, I remember when I changed out my head those lag screws kinda surprised me too. Luckily my holes were intact. If they ever loosen up, I'll do what you're doing.

Mike

This information could not have come at a better time. I was doing a "nutnbolt check" recently on the head when one of the hold down bolts came apart. I couldn't tell what type of bolt it was as only the head and part of the stud came out. I'm surprised anyone would use a lag bolt! I will replace all hold down bolts with through bolts and a starboard backing plate. Of course, I'll have to install a Beckson deck plate to finsh the job.
Thanks for the info.

Always another thought!

[url]http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1746...

I had the same problem with the lag bolts being stripped. I reamed out the holes bigger and I made a very thick mixture of epoxy thickened with two fillers and teak dust and plugged the holes with it. Then I re-drilled the holes and used the lag bolts into the epoxy. So far, after two years, it is fine. I was going to cut the hole and use bolts but decided to try this instead figured if it failed I would do plan B. Epoxy is far stronger than fibreglass resin and bonds well to it.

Nick, did you view the video? You basically inbed the Tee in epoxy. Note they basically counterbore the hole. In this case you do not break through the fibergass on the bottom. I'm not sure the area has a wood core but if it does I would clean some the wood out with a bent nail. Place the Tee on the flat surfice and add epoxy.

Just a thought, when you reattach your toilet, if you are using screw type connectors, try to find a proper sized screw with the finest threads on it.

You want to get the maximum bite out of the screw when it goes through the fiberglass or the epoxy. More threads per inch is a lot more important than bigger lag bolts.

I learned this after working on my boat toilet mounting.

Bill Matley

[quote=Channel Islander;10890]On the off chance that someone some day should read this thread to the bitter end, I can report that on my 1984 Mk I the toilet pedestal has 1/8" glass-only front face and 1/8" glass plus thin plywood (3/8"?) on the top.

Here's a picture of the finished installation of through-bolts and access port. You can see the holes left from the PO's many redos on the lag screws as they continued to pull out. Next I'll have to get the epoxy and gelcoat out :rolleyes:.[/quote]

Nice job. One thing though, you can't put gelcoat over epoxy. It will just go rubbery. You'll have to plug those holes with fibreglass resin.