Ben,

Your serial number would indicate you have framed windows, I have not sealed one of those. It mat be a larger undertaking than you want to take on but you may want to look at Cruising Designs window replacement kit to do away with the frames. Also you should look at a post by Mike Hogan aka CISCOCAT, he used a company that made a replacement framed window that looked great, he posted pictures of these under " Window replacement" I believe.

Steve

Howdy,
I did replace ALL of my windows with one part vinyl frames with plastic window panes. i replaced then about 8 months ago so i can't say how they will hold up in the long run but the windows are great. I had continually problems with the windows before. either the windows would leak or the frames would leak, i tried everything from what was suggested by Catalina to info posted on the old web site but i could never completely get rid of the moisture. I got the replacement windows from a place call Mark Plastics and i could not be more pleased. the plastic windows are cemented into the vinyl frames and the frames are one piece units. the frames were custom fit since the thickness of the sides varied from anywhere 1/2" to 3/4" around each window. if you want additional info let me know and i could forward it to you. the turn around time was about 2 weeks and the cost was compatible to other brands.
regards
and smooth sailing

[url]www.catalinadirect.com[/url]

Ben, the note says: [I]"Some Pearson owners report their boats use the same aluminum extrusion for their windows. They report success repairing their windows with our kits. However, we do not have extensive knowledge of Pearson's production. we cannot guarantee our kits will fit your frames."[/I]

Seems like you do not have a Pearson.:)

Your choice, as you've noted, is to replace the AL frames or go direct to the newer style.

Your boat, your choice.

Ben,
i used the reseal kit and followed the instructions, or at least i thought i did but i still had leaky windows and nothing i did seemed to help.

that is until i got replacement windows from Mark Plastics, the fit EXACTLY in the holes that the framed windows came out of, there was a bit of give and take to get the windows in place but once in they have never leaked anywhere not once and the price was less than the ones from crusing concepts which in my opinion did not fit well with the lines of the mark I. i would strongly suggest that you at least contact the folks at Mark Plastics (just google it). btw it was the contact that kent at catalina provide when i spoke to him.

in fairness the old frames and windows on my boat were in pretty bad shape so maybe you will have better results my hull number ins #226

Ben,

I have used the kit and it work perfectly if you know what your doing. I have had the luxury of being a caulker in another life and after working on high rise window systems for over ten years this was a piece of cake. Its all in the prep work, remove any and all caulk from the ring where the metal meats the window and dig out as much as you can without removing the window from the frame. Also be sure to remove all 5200 sealant from the metal frame as well. Once this is done I used the silicon sealant and moving nice and slow refilled the grove between the window and the frame, once you have gone all the way around use a small cake decorating knife found in any kitchen store to tool the caulk in place. You can remove the excess with the same tool. Once this is done I spritz it with a mix of dish soap and water to "slick" it down smooth. After this is done let it sit for a couple of days to cure, you can remove any excess with a razor blade after its cured. Now for the frame, the second sealant in the kit(name slips my mind) is for the frame. Before you start get someone to help you(very inportant!!!!) dry fit the window and make several marks around its metal frame edge. Take blue painter's tape and go around the outside edge of the marks with the tape. Next you will cut a wide tip on the tube and place the window inside up and go around the edge liberly with a bead about 1/4 inch wide by a 1/4 wide maybe cheet to the 1/2 in high on this. Have your buddy sit on the outside and place the window in the hole and press(do not remove after seated If you do re-caulk the metal edge) from the inside you will center the window and place screws top and bottom in the center working your way to the ends evenly. Be sure to tighten the screws firmly enough that the caulk squeezes out on the outside your buddy can tell you this is happening. Once all the screws are tightened use the tool to smoth the squeezed out caulk down and then right away sloooowly remove the tape around the edge pulling strait up. Now slick the edges down the the soap mix and your done with this window, it took me about three hours total time each window and I have had no leaks what so ever..... Good luck!

Larry Robcke
L'Amante
#319

A sailing buddy of mine just did a step by step approach to eliminating port leaks from his C34. The ones he has are the same as on the C36 Mk II which are Lewmar with an extruded aluminium frame and a plastic join at each side of the frame. To keep the story short, it turned out the leaks resulted from water getting in through the join, migrating to the bottom of the inside of the frame and coming out the weep holes on the inside of the frame where the dogs press the window against the window gasket. All he had to to in the end was to decoratively apply a sealant over the join and presto no more leaks. This is obviously is not the only way these ports can leak but it is a subtle one and easily overlooked which can lead to unneccesarily replacing the whole window when other solutions don't work.

Rick Verbeek
Southpaws
1999 C36 #1763
Toronto

I just replaced the leaky aluminum-framed windows in our Mk1 back in the spring of 2016 with the Cruising Concepts replacement acrylic windows.   Before and after photos attached (the front hatch was an earlier replacement from Cruising Concepts for the original fibreglass hatch that the earlier Mk1s came with, and which left the forepeak as a gloomy cave).  

Thus far, no leaks.   One nice thing is that the replacements actually enlarge the glazed area by eliminating the frames (they glue over the openings) (the last photo shows the replacement trim ring laid over one of the old windows for size comparison).  I later recycled one of the old opening portlights to replace the non-opening portlight between the aft cabin and the cockpit.

I've had success with Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure for small leaks where I couldn't identify the source.  It's a good product.http://www.amazon.com/Captain-Tolleys-Creeping-Crack-Bottle/dp/B00JQ6XHWC

I used Captain Tolley's on my MK1 over the past two weeks. I had four leaking portlights and now am down to one. Captain Tolley's did the trick. It is very watery. As you apply it, it will seep into all the voids behind the portlight and then thicken. It takes a couple of applications (which is why I still have a leak), but once you get it in there - it does seem to work. Some suggest that you should apply this to potential leak spots annually - others suggest that it is a one and done. I plan to be proactive and apply it annually. I'm simply tired of the leaks and the facial expression of the admiral when she see the evidence.

I did my starboard windows last summer with the CD kit. The glass to frame was looser than I expected. Seems some older boats got thinner glass.  It appears I was one of them. I used extra sealer on both sides  of the rubber and it seems to be leek free.   

Les