Mk I Engine Panel Upgade

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Steve Frost
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Joined: 12/14/07
Posts: 788
Mk I Engine Panel Upgade

Installed my new engine control panel over on Saturday, I cheated and did not install the new harness as some of the routing would have required two people. I inspected the old harness and found it in good shape. I needed to trace out some of wire harness to adjust for the older color codes. I had thee extra wires going to my old panel that still have me scratching my head. After installation everything worked except the blower, I will need to trace that out next time. At first after firing up the engine I was perplexed by a burning electrical smell, I sniffed everywhere, could not find it. I thought it may be the hot soldering iron I had used to tin the wires. I unplugged that and still had the smell. About an hour later I went over to a neighbors boat that was upwind of me and noted the smell was coming from the other side of the marina, this relaxed my sphicter.

I even installed the temp alarm that I purchase a year ago. I had been postponing this due to the fact that it requires drilling and tapping a hole in the thermostat housing. I happened to note that the air purge petcock on this housing was the same thread size as the probe, so I replaced the petcock with the probe. To bleed the air in the system I will now back the probe out. I did not know the temp probe was adjustable, I do now.

Any of you with the MKI boats may want to try this trick.
The new panel gauges have round faces and seem a bit easier to read, though at the helm I still need to lean over to see them. I had a brain storm, when looking at the new panel, the bezel or frame the panel sits in is about two inches deep. I went to tap plastics and purchased two pieces of plexiglass mirror cut to fit on the top and bottom of this frame. I will put one piece on the bottom with RTV and another on top at a slight angle. this allows me to glance down a see the gauges without bending over, using two mirrors the images are not backwards. Just need to play with angles a bit before glueing them in place.

Cepheus dream
C36 MK I # 825
MK I Tech Editor No Mas

nelson
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Joined: 6/23/08
Posts: 89

I recently installed the wiring harness upgrade. I replaced the old plugs with the new terminal strips, and re-routed the alternator output wire to the starter per the instructions, but used the old harness wiring since the harness was tied in in several locations that would have required someone with the size and flexibility of a 2 year old to access.

My engine panel is the "in between" panel used from 1990 to 1992. It has the voltmeter rather than the ammeter.

I, too, had a couple of "mystery wires" running to the engine panel outside of the harness, and which were were not identified on the wiring diagram instructions provided by Seaward Products with the harness kit. One wire, I determined, runs to the fuel pump. The other wire ran from the starter button to a device mounted behind the AC/DC panel called a Start Guard (by Newmar), which provides constant voltage to the GPS unit when starting the engine (and which is no longer connected to anything).

I'm glad I did this upgrade, but I would be embarrassed to admit how many hours this took me! Tinning 40 or so wire ends takes some time, if you are new to the process.

--Nelson Lee

Zephyr
C36, hull 1133
Sausalito, CA

Nelson Lee, "Stella," 2002 C36, hull 2069, Universal M35BC, berthed Sausalito, CA

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Steve Frost
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Nelson

It took me about seven hours to complete this task. It has taken a couple days to staighten up from being bent over on the floor tinning wires off the engine harness.
Note, if the wires have any oxide on them they do not tin well unless you clean the oxide off.

Cepheus dream
C36 MK I # 825
MK I Tech Editor No Mas

StillaThrill
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Joined: 7/16/07
Posts: 86

Steve,

Could you post a picture of how you installed the plexiglas mirrors?

Thanks

Ralph
Still a Thrill # 765
WK, STD Rig
Lake Texoma, TX

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Steve Frost
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Ralph

I will try a get some pictures posted as soon as I complete the install, I want to fuss with the angel of the top mirror a bit so the gauges are in sight when standing at the helm. The dimension of the mirrors I am using are 1/8x 12.5 X 1.5, I had purchase some other supplies and noted on the reciept they did not charge me for the mirrors, they showed them as scrap sections.

Cepheus dream
C36 MK I # 825
MK I Tech Editor No Mas

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Steve Frost
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Joined: 12/14/07
Posts: 788

I installed my mirrors yesterday, wound up using a section of plastic coat hangar that was about 3/8 inch in diameter to shim the aft edge of the upper mirror. I took some pictures but they do not do justice, I had hopped for a better view through the mirrors but due to the low angle of the mirror and the parabolic lens on the gauge faces, the veiw is not perfect. It does though allow me determine the position of the needles on the gauges when standing at the helm with just a glance down. The most important thing I want to scan is the water temprature, this is easy to determine as the temp needle at normal operating temp is straight up and is easy to see the needle in that position. Actualy all the gauges when in normal running position can be seen as the when the needles are near the top of the gages, the fuel gauge at full or empty are a bit harder to interpret due to the parabolic lens on the gauges.

I will consider the mod a success as it does give me the ability to keep these gauges in my normal scan with out leaning down to see the instrument cluster. I will load the pictures on my work computor tomorrow and see if they give more detail than what I see on the tiny screen of my camera.

Cepheus dream
C36 MK I # 825
MK I Tech Editor No Mas

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