Just joined for a year and new member to the site. Now I wish I would have joined for 3 years to get that CD! I just bought a "New" 2007 Catalina 36 MKII and want to install the cockpit speakers. I see that that it is prewired but I am having a devil of time finding where the wires come out. I have a stereo already installed with speakers in the cabin and just need to access the rear speaker wires. I've looked everywhere......but obviously not in the right place. The stereo is in the normal locaton- the electronic panel. Thanks!
P.S. I love my 36; just moved up from a 310 and couldn't be happier.
Will Papke
2007 Catalina 36 MKII "Spirit"
Will Papke
"Spirit"
Pacific Northwest, Seattle
Sailing out of Lake Union
2007 C-36 mkII Tall Rig M35B
Will,
I can't help you with the speaker wires for a MkII, but I can point you in the right direction for the three year membership. Contact our Membership Chair, Sean McGuckin. He can help you upgrade your membership from one year to three years, so you can get the CD. It is definitely worth it!
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
The wires exit into the lazarette beneath each seat.
They thread down inside the stern pulpit stainless tubing. Just crawl into the lazarette and look up at a point where there is a stern pulpit attachment. The wires are hanging in there. Also, while you're down in the stbd lazarette look for the pvc tubing that will act as a conduit to take the wires (that you must install) forward to the salon where your stereo is located.
Welcome aboard, Will.
Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
Thanks Larry. I will check it out this week. I didn't realize I had to run the wires- I was hoping that was already done and they'd come out somewhere near the stereo head. Much appriciate the information!
Will
Will Papke
"Spirit"
Pacific Northwest, Seattle
Sailing out of Lake Union
2007 C-36 mkII Tall Rig M35B
I found those wires.......just where Larry said they would be. I also found two conduits on the starboard side that are currently being used to lead other wires forward to the electrical panel but figure my 16 awg wire will be small enough in diameter to thread through what is left of an opening. Looks like I'll have tunes for the weekend! Thanks again.
Will Papke
"Spirit"
Pacific Northwest, Seattle
Sailing out of Lake Union
2007 C-36 mkII Tall Rig M35B
Will, you must remove at least the aft cabin closet drawers to find the forward end of the pvc conduit; but the entire closet is removable with, if I recall correctly, only 6 or 8 screws. Remove the drawers first, then the screws, and take the whole closet out and it will make it easy to work there.
Beneath the chart table is a round plastic access panel. Your wire run will pass within reach of that panel, then up behind the power distribution panel, then to your stereo location...presumably on stbdside near the chart table.
I suggest 14 guage wire, marine stranded...NOT household solid. The wire I used looked exactly like household 14-2, but was marine grade stranded.
Also, beware the live 120VAC behind the power distribution panel. Shutting the 120 VAC off at the switch on the panel DOES NOT remove the voltage from exposed terminals on the back side of the panel. For this dangerous work you should ensure the AC is OFF by removing the shore power plug at the dock connection (ie, NEVER at the stern connection).
I hope this helps.
Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
Hi, Larry. I'm curious about your strong warning to 'never' disconnect the shore power cable from the stern of the boat. Obviously, one 'always' disconnects the cable from the stern of the boat to take her out.
Please explain what you meant. Thanks!
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/
Duane,
I think what Larry is referring to is the fact that if you simply disconnect the shore power from the boat, you are leaving the shore power cord "live". You should first turn off any appliances in the boat that draw current, then disconnect the shore power cord from the dock, and then lastly disconnect the power cord from the boat. If you disconnect the cord from the boat and/or dock without turning off the master 110VAC breaker or at least major appliances, you tend to get arcing at the power cord connections, which leads to increased resistance, which leads to melted cords and fires. Load. Dock. Boat.
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
Hi, Tom. Thanks for your post.
I agree 100% that your method is the way to do it. I was also sort of thinking that might be what Larry was referring to, but I thought I would ask.
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/
Are all MKIIs prewired? I 'm planning on installing rear speakers as well on my 95. Where do the wires exit the stern pulpit?
Thanks,
Sid
Fair winds and following seas,
Sid
'95 C36 MkII #1448
Sorry, Duane, and thanks, Tom.
Sometimes I am not as eloquent as I would like to be. "Never" is a strong word, isn't it? I was indeed referring to the correct procedure of disconnecting shore power first at the dock box, and only then disconnecting it at the stern connector. The risks of doing the the procedure the wrong way include the possibity of damaging the components as described above, and also the risk of electrocuting the diver that is changing zincs on the boat a couple slips down the way.
Sid, I am not sure whether all MkIIs were pre-wired; perhaps there was a series that didn't have them. On my 2002, one end of the pre-installed wires was in the lazarette as previously explained, and the other end exited the stern rail S/S tubing beneath each stern rail seat...the so-called "cat bird seat" or "jump seat".
Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
Sid,
Read Larry Brandt's post #3 above.
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
My 1999 model was definitely not pre-wired. I did drill new holes in the stern "perch" seat tubing to run wires and it was not fun. The end result was worth it, however.
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/
Tom,
I was asking where the wires would be on the outside/pulpit, not in the lazarette. I couldn't find any exit holes under the pulpit seats and wanted to know if I was looking in the right place.
Thanks,
Sid
Fair winds and following seas,
Sid
'95 C36 MkII #1448
Larry,
Thanks again for the good information. Yes, the conduits did come out in the rear cabin behind the drawers. I was able to feed the wires without having to remove the cabinetry- only pull out the drawers. I used a 15 foot 3/8 cable to feed the wires during the whole process; simply taped the wires to one end and pulled it through. I also removed the round plastic access cover under the chart table and was able to feed the wires up to the electrical panel by feeding down a 3/8 in cable from the electrical panel and pulling the wires up. Cockpit speakers work like a charm, but you've got me worried now because I used 16 awg rather than 14.............I notice that I have to turn the volume knob up high to get adequate level of sound and I now wonder if the the larger diameter 14 awg would have produced less resistance? I am thinking probably not as it is such a short run- what, about 10-12 ft at most. The volume level shows up as digital on the stereo head and the volume goes all the way to 100. I am turning it up to about 40. I know that if you have to turn up the volume too high it can cause the speaker wires to overheat. I have double chedked and confirmed that I have connected everything correctly. What do you think, should I rip it all out and rerun 14 Awg. Please say no!!!!! Thanks again all.
Cheers,
Will
Addendum: 3/23/009
I found a wire gauge calculator on line ([url]http://www.webervst.com/gauge.htm[/url]) and determined that with my two 4 ohm cockpit speakers, length of the run, and the amps of my stereo unit, my use of 16 awg is just fine. A much longer run and I would have probably opted for the larger diameter (and less resistance) 14awg. I am very pleased with the way this turned out- and it really wasn't that difficult a project!
Cheers,
Will
Will Papke
"Spirit"
Pacific Northwest, Seattle
Sailing out of Lake Union
2007 C-36 mkII Tall Rig M35B
[QUOTE=deising;758]My 1999 model was definitely not pre-wired. I did drill new holes in the stern "perch" seat tubing to run wires and it was not fun. The end result was worth it, however.[/QUOTE]
Duane,
Where did you have to drill? Mine is not prewired. I'm not sure if I would need to remove the pulpit to put the holes through the deck and also how/where to drill on the pulpit to get the wires from under the perch seats to below decks. Just looking the process seems to be drill under the seats, drill through the vertical portion of the pulpit in to the horizontal bar that the seat is attached to, and then drill through the deck. If this is how you did it, what did you use to seal the hole left on the vertical portion?
Thanks,
Sid
Fair winds and following seas,
Sid
'95 C36 MkII #1448
[QUOTE=Sid;3078]Duane,
... Just looking the process seems to be drill under the seats, drill through the vertical portion of the pulpit in to the horizontal bar that the seat is attached to, and then drill through the deck. If this is how you did it, what did you use to seal the hole left on the vertical portion?... [/QUOTE]
Sid,
That's pretty much it. I carefully measured to find the center of the vertical tube where it intersected the fiberglass at the base, and then I drilled upwards from inside the lazarette - enlarging the hole progressively. I tried using a rubber grommet to seal the hole around the wire, but it was marginally successful. I then added silicone caulking to make it mostly sealed. I used wire loom to protect the speaker cable and secured it under the seat.
When drilling the vertical tube, I tried to make the hole centerline athwartships. This doesn't weaken the tubing from fore/aft bending loads as much.
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/