I just rebedded my first chainplate. It is the aftmost chainplate on the starboard side. I took everything out, cleaned everything off, really took my time. Everything was going along smashingly until I tried to put the chainplate cover back on. I drilled out the holes and filled with West System Six10, and let it dry overnight. The problem lay in the fact that I apparently put too much butyl tape under the chainplate cover. I just figured I'd lay it on extra thick and it would ooze out the sides as I tightened down the cover. I guess it doesn't ooze out as much as I thought. While one screw held, the other screw stripped out, and it was too late to do anything about because it was time to go home. So word to the wise to all you future chainplate rebedders, make sure you don't put too much butyl tape under the chainplate cover, otherwise you might share a similarly frustrating fate as mine.
Having said that, I was hoping for some advice. Is anybody aware of something I can use to fill the chainplate cover holes that holds stronger and cures faster that West System Six10? And further, does anyone have any tricks they would like to share on how to make sure the epoxy (or whatever you recommend) fills up those tiny holes completely? I used that giant syringe attachment that comes with the Six10 tube. It occurs to me that the syringe attachment that came with the Six10 may not have filled those holes up as much as I thought.
AND FINALLY, if possible, when I go back to the boat I would like to avoid having to take everything apart (whole chainplate inside and out), removing the butyl rubber, and cleaning everything all over again. I'm thinking since I will be using the same butyl tape, I should be able to just clean the cover, and put on a thinner coat of the stuff and reinstall. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this?
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
I like the Six10 for convenience to have on board, but I find it is too thick to reliably flow out to the edges of holes. I tend to mix up a batch of whatever your two part epoxy of choice is - I use West in the summer but I use SP Cold Cure in the colder seasons, thickened with anti-sag, but not thickened as much as the Six10.
Any epoxy project is a multi day project - I find myself doing more and more work in polyester just because I can make it cure faster.
I think your last question sounds fine as long as you get good clean surfaces when you reapply. I also find that you CAN squeeze out large amounts of Butyl, just not quickly. ie. put a turn on the screw, wait 10 minutes another turn, wait again. But there's no point in doing it that way when your end result is going to be a thin layer anyways.
Jason V
Vancouver, BC, Canada
[QUOTE=JAS;20513]AND FINALLY, if possible, when I go back to the boat I would like to avoid having to take everything apart (whole chainplate inside and out), removing the butyl rubber, and cleaning everything all over again. I'm thinking since I will be using the same butyl tape, I should be able to just clean the cover, and put on a thinner coat of the stuff and reinstall. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this?[/QUOTE]
I agree with Jason. No need to re-do everything.
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/
Wow, that was fast. Thanks guys. I am very relieved that you two are agreed that there shouldn't be any reason to take the whole thing apart and reclean and rebed. That was the demoralizing thought that plagued my mind all the way home from the boat.
Having said that, what do you guys think of using a toothpick to slowly jam the epoxy down tiny holes, such at the ones used to screw down the chainplate covers?
And finally, what a brilliantly simple idea Nimue! Put a bunch of butyl tape under the chainplate and tighten down SLOWLY over the course of an hour or so. I love it! The whole point of laying the stuff on thick was to ensure an impenetrable seal. And your suggestion will allow me to do just that. Thank you, kind sir!
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
I use a disposable syringe from WestSystem with the curved, hummingbird-esque tip, to inject epoxy. You could do it without thickening at all if you are working with a really small hole.
Jason V
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Just for the record if others are following this thread or searching it in the future:
I just pulled my two 'main' chainplates holding the upper shrouds. I had re-bedded them before, but this was the first time I actually pulled them out. I want to report that (at least on my 1999 model), the job was not hard at all. All the hardware is accessible after removing a few pieces of cabinetry.
It was a great relief to see that the metal showed no evidence of corrosion or cracking.
I used a dremel tool with a side milling cutter to quickly shape the hole in the deck and add a chamfer at the deck surface. Thickened epoxy went on easily to seal the inside surface of the hole.
That butyl tape worked great to fill the hole around the re-installed chainplate and seal under the cover plate, as well.
My point for those who have not yet done it, is that it is not a difficult job. From start to finish took about 3 hours, including time for the epoxy to cure.
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/