Hello
Can someone please tell me if the little knurled wheel in the picture below is the fuel bleed valve? Am I supposed to run the engine with that open or closed?
Thanks
Sean
[ATTACH]102509-000[/ATTACH]
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Captain Sean
Homeport - Bethel Point, Maine
Hull #1389
Looks as though it runs great with it closed. When I first started the engine after changing the fuel filters it died out after a few seconds even though I ran the lift pump for a while to get all the air out. I ran the lift pump for a while and could not get her restarted. That's when I noticed the little bleed screw. On my old universal M5411 the bleed didn't have a return to the tank. This one appears to run into the recirc lines off the injectors. I opened the bleed screw and ran the lift pump then started the engine. She ran with it open and ran with it closed.
Captain Sean
Homeport - Bethel Point, Maine
Hull #1389
Capt. Sean,
After I change fuel filters I normally start and run the engine with the bleed open for 20 seconds or so. That's usually good enough to get the air out.
Tony
Tony Cullen
s/v Sceptre
1995 C-36 MkII 1449 TR/FK
San Diego, CA. (Chula Vista Marina)
When changing filters, injectors, etc. I just turn the key and pump runs open the valve for a few minutes close and start the engine. When I first got the boat I did not know that this engine had that and paid $$$ for the service at the boatyard. This is just too simple!
Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine
There should be a return line from your injector pump to the fuel tank. The lift pump pushes more fuel to the engine than it will burn and the excess is recycled back to the fuel tank. Kind of a poor man's fuel polishing system. If your tank is not full you should hear fuel running into the tank when the pump is on and the engine is not running. The bleed screw should be closed when operating normally.
Some engines have gthe bleed screw some don't. My M35B does not. I just changed both filters and here's the procedure I used:
If you do have a bleed screw, the proper procdure is to replace your filters, open the screw, run the lift pump (ideally independent of preheat) till fuel is flowing back into the tank with a steady stream, then slowly close the screw while the pump is still running. Prefilling filters is always a good idea, but be prepared for some spills.
Nick Caballero
Retired C36/375IA Mk II Technical Editor
Does anyone have a part number for the fuel bleed valve?
I have an M25 Universal.
Thank you.
Mitch
1986 Catalina 36 MKI
S/V "Blessing"
Kema, TX
Hull: #584
M25 w/ Oberdorfer Conversion
I had one replaced on my M35 several years ago and it is part # 300050 and checking the parts catalog for the M25 and M25XP it is the same part # for the complete assembly Torrenson has it listed at about $45
Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine
Nick-
I believe we have the same fuel set up. I changed my Racor element for the 1st time yesterday. Gravity refilled the fuel filter until I closed the vent plug. I activated the preheat a few times to to bleed and the engine fired right up. I have two questions:
1) How does the finger pump work? Is that actually shut off valve? I had it unscrewed from its seat while the fuel entered the filter. Actually, fuel seemed to flow regardless of it being firmly seated or not.
2) Adjacent the finger pump on the top of the housing is a flush plug with a slot. This plug can rotate but I am unsure what it's purpose is?
Thank goodness for baby diapers.
Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B
I too ordered one a while back, but it was the wrong diameter and thread pattern.
I wonder if anyone knows the size and TPI on the fuel bleed valve, because what I was sent was not metric and the wrong size.
Thanks for the part number...
Mitch
1986 Catalina 36 MKI
S/V "Blessing"
Kema, TX
Hull: #584
M25 w/ Oberdorfer Conversion
Since the Racor is below the fuel tank, it might fill by siphon once you remove the bleed screw, but it might not. If it does not, then rotating the finger pump should cause it to pop up. You then depress it as many times as it takes to fill the bowl and get fuel to come out of the vent plug. After you're done, depress and rotate the finger pump to lock it down. Here's a link to a picture of the finger pump lifted and the vent plug removed: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/racor7.jpg
The white plastic cover with the slot in it that's located at the inlet port is a check valve. You should not need to disturb this. If you do, just make sure it's re-tightened.
Nick Caballero
Retired C36/375IA Mk II Technical Editor