I ask a lot of questions on this forum, so I thought I'd contribute where possible.
Last weekend, I undertook Part I of a project to install run CATV on the boat. The end goal is not to have TV on board, but instead to have cable internet when I'm at the dock. I'm sick of paying an equivalent amount for a mobile hotspot that has very slow service, and I'm not interested in spending the $300-600 for a mast-mounted WiFi antenna that would allow me to get BBX (which itself then costs $300+ a year in service fees).
Part I involved installing a jack on the transom and making the initial connection internally. This was a little nerve-wracking for me, as it is the first time I've drilled a hole in my boat!!
Tools used:
+ Cordless drill
+ Dremel tool w/561 bit and 565 multipurpose cutting kit (optional)
+ Countersink bit
+ 1/8 drill bit
+ 3/8 drill bit
+ Very small bit (1/16 or smaller) drill bit or ~1/16" sharp metal spike
+ Square or straightedge
+ Gelcoat-marking pen or crayon
+ Cable stripper (I used [url]http://www.amazon.com/DataShark-70029-Universal-Cutter-Stripper/dp/B000H...)
+ Cable compression crimper (I used [url]http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-70052-Compression-Connectors/dp/B000..., though it was cheaper when I bought it)
+ N95 disposable respirator (lots of fiberglass dust here)
Other products:
+ 4 #8 stainless screws (1" is PLENTY long; 3/4 is probably fine)
+ External CATV jack (Hubbel, Marinco, or similar) (I used the TV-only model of this inlet, which might be discontinued: [url]http://www.marinco.com/product/standard-phone-cable-tv-inlet[/url])
+ CATV ground loop isolator (I used [url]http://www.amazon.com/Viewsonics-VSIS-EU-Cable-Ground-Isolator/dp/B0017I...)
+ CATV cable (RG6), outdoor rated (I found the cheapest way to buy this is just to buy a pre-terminated 50 foot length and get as necessary)
+ Electrical tape (marine-grade)
+ Stainless waterproof, outdoor-rated F-type crimp connectors (I used [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MY3F0I[/url]) -- you will need ones that create a waterproof seal to the cable upon compression
+ Various F-type connectors and adapters
[B]Step 1: The short run[/B]
I don't have the best pictures of this step, just of the finished product. Since I planned to mount the external connection fairly high on the transom, I needed a right-angle connector as there isn't enough room in the narrow gap between the transom and the back of the seat to install a cable that sticks straight out. I also wanted to include a group-loop isolator as close to the incoming CATV source as possible. This is what the finished assembly looks like:
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XwfpAqiMtR4/UYBEYUpSQyI/AAAAAAAAAZM/c...
What you see here is a short length (about a 12-16 inches) of RG6 cable, with a waterproof connector at each end. At one end, I've attached the ground loop isolator (white cylinder) and wrapped the connection with electrical tape to ensure isolation. At the other end, I've attached a right-angle connector (F-F) and then a M-M connector (added benefit that this adds a slight extension, which is helpful). Here's a close-up of that end:
[IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jfeENGJk3Z0/UYBEdzX1SVI/AAAAAAAAAZU/0...
[B]Step 2: X Marks the Spot[/B]
I came up with a rough location for transom mounting, mainly just eyeballed it. I couldn't mount it any lower as on my boat that's where the controller for the diesel heat is mounted (on the inside). If you can mount it lower on the transom, you don't need the right-angle connector in the cable assembly above.
One problem I encountered is that the box for the jack doesn't have an easy way of using it as a mounting hole template. The rubber gasket included with the box was too easy to stretch for it to be of much use either. What I ended up doing was using a very small bit (1/16) in reverse to make a tiny mark in the gelcoat. With one hand holding the jack box, and the other hand holding my drill gun, I very very carefully made the tiny mark at low speed. I had also made red marks around the edges of the mounting box, so that I had something to eyeball to make sure my grip didn't shift.
Once I'd made the little scratches, I marked them a little more perceptibly with my red crayon. I also used a straightedge to draw lines between the corners, so that I could find the approximate center of the box (this is where the actual jack will go, and it's good to know where that is as you'll have to drill for it later!
[IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3fAAtpVYZy4/UYBD3Su7BbI/AAAAAAAAAYU/2...
David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA
[B]Step 3: Drill baby, drill[/B]
Heeding advice from all corners of the internet, I used a countersink bit (drill in reverse) to wear down the gel count in advance of drilling the holes. The result looks something like this:
[IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9qWD2DkGb5g/UYBD8s44GjI/AAAAAAAAAYc/G... (note: took this photo before countersinking the middle of the X)
The instructions with the Marinco jack say to use a 1/8 inch bit for the corners, and a large 5/8" (paddle) bit for the middle. I was worried about using a large paddle bit on my gelcoat, and also knew that based on my particular install (tight space behind the jack; right-angle and M-M connectors) I'd need a little more wiggle room. I'll enlarge this with my Dremel later.
Here's what it looks like after the drill. Nice and smooth, no gelcoat cracks!
[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HzF0Fyz8RTM/UYBEDEctZSI/AAAAAAAAAYs/C...
[B]Step 4: We're going to need a bigger hole[/B]
Next I used my Dremel, a 561 bit, and the cutting guide, to enlarge the hole to the point where the connector fit through and I could easily manipulate it to attach it to the back of the jack. I ran the Dremel at 15k RPM. Remember to go clockwise!
[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0Yzkx_uUofM/UYBWOxwCKoI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/p...
[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9IEqgbPV-go/UYBWP_3qGzI/AAAAAAAAAag/z...
David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA
[B]Step 5: Mount the jack[/B]
Attach the connect to the back of the jack. This could be a bit tricky, especially if you have big fingers. Don't forget to loop the connector through the included gasket before attaching. It is finally time to screw down the connector!
One trick here I found was to drill the screws through the jack and the gasket so that just the tips of the screws were showing out the back. Then it's easy to use the tips of the screws to align to the mounting holes you've pre-drilled.
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TRYVQtuCKEM/UYBWRZwD05I/AAAAAAAAAa4/F...
Another thing I learned is that the cover to the outlet box gets in the way. I used a short bungee cord to attach it to the pushput stanchion, keeping it out of the way.
[B]Remember to tighten each screw a bit at a time, rather than cranking down all the way on each one in sequence.[/B]
I also learned an important step I left out: I should have further counter-sunk my pre-drilled holes before screwing into them. All of the damage was below the gasket, but I could hear (and see) the gel coat crack as soon as the screw bit in. All done on the outside!
[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NStAjuj5yzE/UYBWSuzl7tI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/R...
[B]Step 6: Lock it down[/B]
Finally, throw some cable ties on your short internal run. On my boat, it was easy to tie it to some of the lines for the electronics, which were in turn tied to the fuel vent line. Now I'm in an easy place, and ready for Part II: Cable runs and internal jack mounting.
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G9tTfmipg3E/UYBWTJ74odI/AAAAAAAAAbY/6...
David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA
Just a quick thought, since I've been contemplating doing the same. Do you stern in to the slip? Since I bow in, I was thinking of installing it high up in the anchor locker.
Gene Foraker
Sandusky Yacht Club
Sandusky, OH
1999 C36 #1786
Gypsy Wagon
[QUOTE=gforaker;17630]Just a quick thought, since I've been contemplating doing the same. Do you stern in to the slip? Since I bow in, I was thinking of installing it high up in the anchor locker.[/QUOTE]
Good question. I bow into my slip and considered an anchor locker install but ultimately decided that it would be more complicated given the difficulty of accessing the space behind the anchor locker. I was also concerned about the chain banging against the jack and possibly breaking it (I think if I did the anchor locker install I would go with the significantly more expensive stainless jack over the plastic one).
Since I have to attach shore power at the stern anyway, my plan is to use velcro ties to attach the cable TV line to my shore power cable and run them both down the dock together.
David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA
[QUOTE=FlyMeAway;17636]Good question. I bow into my slip and considered an anchor locker install but ultimately decided that it would be more complicated given the difficulty of accessing the space behind the anchor locker. I was also concerned about the chain banging against the jack and possibly breaking it (I think if I did the anchor locker install I would go with the significantly more expensive stainless jack over the plastic one).
Since I have to attach shore power at the stern anyway, my plan is to use velcro ties to attach the cable TV line to my shore power cable and run them both down the dock together.[/QUOTE]
I already have the power cable connection in the anchor locker, so it would be a natural for me.
Gene Foraker
Sandusky Yacht Club
Sandusky, OH
1999 C36 #1786
Gypsy Wagon