Introduction. 

• This post is to share my experience with using a crowfoot wrench tool to remove the anode from my 6 gallon Kuuma hot water heater tank to check for corrosion. 
• I learned that the anode will in fact corrode and will now check it twice annually.
• I  now will Not rely solely on the drain in the anode to empty the hot water tank for winter storage - opening only the drain left almost 4 gallons of water in the hot water tank. 

Please see below for details and attached for pictures

John
1985 MK1 Hull Nbr 397
Chesapeake Bay near Annapolis
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Removing Anode.

• I used a 1 ⅛ inch crowfoot wrench tool attached to a ⅜ inch ratchet with extension to remove the anode rod with drain from my 6 gallon Kuuma hot water(HW) heater. My crowfoot wrench is a Williams 1 ⅛ inch,  ⅜ inch drive tool that I bought on Amazon for about $20.
• In December 2024 after haul out it was time for me to remove the anode from the HW heater to check for corrosion of the anode.
• The anode I use is a Kuuma/Camco Anode Rod with Drain - 11916.
• In attempting to remove the anode I soon discovered that because of the handle on the drain, a socket will not fit on the anode hex nut. I was also unable to get a large enough crescent or open end wrench on the 1 ⅛ inch hex nut. This is because the anode hex nut is close to the fuel tank.
• In doing some research on how to deal with this situation, I discovered the crowfoot wrench. I was then able to slip this wrench on the hex nut. I then used my ⅜ inch drive ratchet with an extension to remove the anode.

Caution on Relying on Anode Drain to Empty HW Heater

• In removing the anode about 4 gallons of water came out of the HW heater. 
• This was a surprise to me. In winterizing the fresh water system including the HW heater I opened the drain on the anode to let water drain out. When I did this in early December, I got a steady stream of water out which eventually stopped. I then left the drain open.
• Going forward for winterization I will remove the anode and not rely on the drain to empty the HW heater.

Anode Corrosion

• I experienced significant corrosion of the anode. I estimate the anode was 50-60 % corroded after two years.
• I had installed the anode when I replaced the HW heater in 2022.
• The HW heater I replaced was also a Kuuma 6 gallon unit. This old unit did not have an anode and was installed by a prior owner. 
• Installing (and removing) the anode before the HW heater is installed is easy. Once the HW heater is installed it is challenging to get to. My HW heater is installed under the galley sink and dry stores just outboard of the fuel tank.
• The reason I replaced the HW heater in 2022 was the HW had a strong sulfur smell that I could not get rid of. 
• My understanding is a functional anode will minimize if not eliminate the sulfur smell.
• Since installing the HW heater with the anode I have not had any smell issues with the hot water.
• The HW heater is operated with both the coolant lines from the engine and AC electric power when connected to shore power. In the two years I have had this HW heater I have only generated HW when the engine is running. I have only turned on the breaker on the AC side of the electric panel once or twice to test it. On these occasions once the water heated up I turned the breaker off.
• Kuuma recommends removing and checking the anode at the beginning and end of each boating season. Going forward I will follow this recommendation. With the crowfoot wrench this is now a relatively straight forward process.