Some one posted a picture of their 4 6 volt batteris under the aft seat in front of nav station . Where is it?
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Bill Miller
S/V Lorraine
Pacific Northwest,Sound Sound
Grapeview,Wa
1990 Mk1
Some one posted a picture of their 4 6 volt batteris under the aft seat in front of nav station . Where is it?
Bill Miller
S/V Lorraine
Pacific Northwest,Sound Sound
Grapeview,Wa
1990 Mk1
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I can't find it, but here's ours if that helps. They're in a fibreglassed plywood box I built.
Thanks Bud that is the one I was looking for
Bill Miller
S/V Lorraine
Pacific Northwest,Sound Sound
Grapeview,Wa
1990 Mk1
How do you support the board for the cushion to set on as you cut out to put the battery in which I plan on doing?
Bill Miller
S/V Lorraine
Pacific Northwest,Sound Sound
Grapeview,Wa
1990 Mk1
Bud
Would you also have a wiring diagram to go with the picture.
I plan to do the same thing as soon as my 4D's need replacing so would like to have everything prepared.
Peter Taylor Melbourne Australia. Altair #2227 2005 C36 Mk11
Heres another I just cut the lip of the seat to allow room for the last battery to be placed and removed. Sort of a puzzle taking boards and batteries out but have done this for the past 8 years.
Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine
[quote=William Miller;15393]How do you support the board for the cushion to set on as you cut out to put the battery in which I plan on doing?[/quote]
Nothing was cut out of the boat itself, other than a strip on the top of the forward side of the opening about 1/2" wide to let me get the battery box in there. The board still sits in the on the original supports. The Mk II opening is different than the Mk I.
[quote=Peter Taylor;15399]Bud
Would you also have a wiring diagram to go with the picture.
I plan to do the same thing as soon as my 4D's need replacing so would like to have everything prepared.[/quote]
Here ya go! This just shows the primary wiring.
Thans Bud yes the MK1 is different will cut to fit a battery box from Dyno into the space then replace the edge.for seat with removable boards. Boy did they ever put the factory battery box in glassed to the hull on one side and fixed with 5200 on the other side ,cut down to the bottom and left it in
Bill Miller
S/V Lorraine
Pacific Northwest,Sound Sound
Grapeview,Wa
1990 Mk1
Bud
Unless I am looking at your drawing wrong, it appears you do not have a separate starting battery. On the "1-2-All" switch on Caprice, a 1990 model, the PO wired the four house batteries to the number 2 position on the switch and a separate starting battery, which is a series 27, under the galley sink, to the number 1 position on the switch. From the switch on it is the same as your drawing I believe. Was my instalation the correct way to do the job?
__/)__/)__/)__Capt Mike__/)__/)__/)__
Punta Gorda Florida
1990 Std WK M35 Hull #1050
Mike, I do have a separate starting battery. It's a little AGM, it's shown on the diagram in the upper left hand corner. It lives in the locker under the entrance to the aft cabin and is wired direct (through it's own cutoff switch) to the starter with about 4 feet of 2AWG wire. It is charged through a Xantrex EchoCharger. I have a manual combiner switch mounted at the engine that lets me bridge start and house banks together to charge the starting battery directly, start the engine from the house bank, or run the house from the starter battery.
I left my house bank wired to the main switch. My reasoning on this is because if you lose a cell on a 6 volt battery that bank is toast and if you had all the banks in parallel and say on #2 on the switch you now have a problem with voltage that will require some unwiring to work around. So I can isolate a bad bank with the switch and still carry on. I normally leave both banks engaged so that I am using the batteries up equally, don't want to get into having to replace 1 or 2 batteries at time down the road.
The alternator charges the house bank directly through the main switch and the starter battery indirectly through the Echo Charger. I have 1/0 wiring on the house bank and there is almost no voltage drop between batteries, the switch and the alternator, hence the regulator sees the actual house battery voltage for charging. I also have a battery monitor system that sees the two house banks separately and the starter battery separately, so I can watch for any differences between the two house banks that might indicate a problem.
I don't believe there is one right way to do this for everyone. I think you have to distill down what you think works for you. There's dozens of ways to do all this and whatever way you choose you've got to be able to understand it so you can keep things humming along. I think there's a lot of flexibility and redundancy in this system so it works for me. But as they say, YMMV.
Mike: There are many different ways to wire the house and reserve banks, and that is just one of them, with two switches. It appears that it also runs the charging from the alternator through the 1-2-B switch. Many of us have run the alternator output to the house bank. Here's why:
Basic Battery Wiring Diagrams This is a very good basic primer for boat system wiring: [url]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6604.0.html[/url]
This is another very good basic primer for boat system wiring: The 1-2-B Switch by Maine Sail (brings together a lot of what this subject is all about)
[url]http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137615[/url]
As far as 6V battery wiring details, try this:
[url]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7162.0.html[/url]
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)