Hi there, I think my stbd tank is leaking and contributing to the water in my engine compartment and eventually the bilge (earlier post regarding excessive water in bilge). Has anyone ever removed one of these tanks before? It seems to be quite a puzzle. After removing the breather off the top of the tank, I thought I would be able to shift the tank aft to allow room to disconnect the supply line (out the bottom forward), then shift the tank fwd and disconnect the filler hose from the aft end. There was NOT enough play to do this. In fact the tolerances between the tank and the molded form of the boat leads me to believe there must be a better way. I've added a picture to reference, hoping someone has been through this and can talk me through this process.
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
Mike,
it’s been awhile, but if I remember correctly, you have to remove the plastic outlet fitting from the bottom, front of the tank in order to lift it out. I’m pretty sure you get to it from the compartment in front of it. All ours leaked when we bought the boat new. They had minimal Teflon tape on the threads. Also, be aware that the large inspection port on top is famous for leaking around the threads, especially if you really fill the tank up to the top. The plastic tank bulges and the port weeps water.
I’ve found, over the years of working on my boat, that most everything is accessible/removable. Catalina did a first rate job of making this boat easy to work on.
Wally
"Onanne"
2000 MKII, deep keel, tall rig
Lake Champlain
Hi again Wally. Not sure if that hatch (that faces fwd that gives access to the raw water seacock and I suppose the fwd plumbing on the tank) is something Catalina added on later boats, but our 1999 does NOT have it. I know what your talking about because I saw it on my friend's 2005. But on our 1999 it's a blank wall and the seacock is tucked away in the engine compartment, aft of the transmission and just to stbd (pita to get to). I'll check next time I'm aboard but I'm wondering if there may be some kind of access in the storage well, to the stbd side and fwd of the tank...
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
Yep, you’re right. I’m on the boat now and have included a pic of my setup. It was 19 years ago that I did this, so forgive an old guy! I remember that I installed this access plate. Looking inside, there seems to be no other way to get in there. I assume the tank won’t come out by lifting from the back first and “angling” it out? The access port is on the bulkhead right in front of you as you enter the cabin.
ive also included a pic of the “somewhat straightened” shift lever.
Wally
"Onanne"
2000 MKII, deep keel, tall rig
Lake Champlain
Wally, thanks again. Both pics hugely helpful. Seeing that access port will give me the confidence to make the cut. It looks like the tank is set far enough back that I'll be able to use my roto zip and set the guard for a very shallow blade depth. What diameter access port do you have there? Can you reach the raw water thru-hull through that access?
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
Mike,
If you remove the center tank you can get access to the rear fittings on the starboard tank. That should aid you in removing the tank. On my boat for some reason the factory installed on 2 of the 3 tanks cap that had a center vent hole and yes it leaked water. That and new o-rings on the caps sealed my tanks tight.
Bob Wilson
S/V Morning Breeze
2003 Catalina 36, Hull 2122
York River Yacht Club
Williamsburg, VA
The leaks are almost ALWAYS at the fittings, often from freezing if a bit of water is in the bottom ot the tank, or at the vent fitting and fill fittings from blasting shore water pressure into the tanks until they are full and pressurized at the city water pressure. I never accessed the fill fitting on the starboard tank, but I did have to use a hot melt glue gun with the yellow coloured extra strong glue sticks to repair all the fittings on the center aft tank. After my nephew helpfully blasted full pressure into the center tank it is leaking at the vent fitting again.
Something is not quite right with the vent set up as the tubes dip aft of the tanks and then connect with a T connector. This seems to add pressure in the tanks. One day I'd like to add an independent overflow for the starboard tank and lift the vent hoses high enough to back-flow into the tops of the tanks.
Kevin Lenard
"Firefly"
'91 C-36 Mk. "1.5" Tall Rig, Fin Keel, Hull #1120, Universal M-35 original (not "A" or "B")
CBYC, Scarborough, Lake Ontario, Canada
Been 'blasting" water into may tanks for many, many years on different boats with no ill effect. I DO slow the water flow a bit, but I want to clear all lines and vents. During spring commissioning I want all lines (and vents!) sanitized. I fill until it overflows (slowly!) and water exits the vent - then all is cleared.
I also remove the tops and remove (shop vac) any water prior to winterizing - only adding antifreeze to the pre pump intake (I added). No antifreeze in the ranks and no possibility of freezing fittings. Some might say what about condensate, but have not experienced any issues.
I have found the tanks leak very easily from the clean outs when filled. They are weak tanks and the cover is more rigid, thus water leaks. Lots of Teflon tape and a good o ring with a light coating of super lube - not over tightened, but tight, seems OK.
If you drip water in under no pressure the tanks will still bulge and lift the rear mattress. Just run the pump until it subsides.
I may be just as swift as Kevin's nephew. When on the hard this past spring, I filled the water tanks, starting with the stbd tank. I cleverly duct taped the trigger on the yard hose, dropped it in the tank filler port and went about another project, thinking that water would over fill at the port, I would see and hear it, and I'll pull the hose out at that time. Nope. It started taking quite a bit of time and so I went below to check. I found the tank had expanded so much it pushed up the mattress and cover board. This of course led to one of my earlier posts "excessive water in the bilge". It's hard to know if I damaged a breather, seal or a seam. I want to get it home and fill it in my garage and look for the leak.
Kevin, did the tank material respond well to glue-gun repair?
Thanks again folks!
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
Not exactly referring to the issue at hand, but on my 2002 Mk II I had a problem with water not being pumped out of the starboard tank. Came to find that when they installed the outflow line, the liine comes out of the tank then has to move about 2" to the side to get thru the bulkhead aft of the tank.
Instead of putting in a loop, the installer bent the line in two 90 degree angles putting a major crimp in the line. I put in a new line with a loop and that solved the problem. You might want to check that while you have the tank out.
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Thanks Chuck! Good idea.
Mike
Jackfish Girl, 1999, C36 MKII, Tall Rig, Wing Keel, In-mast furling, Monument Beach, Bourne, MA
I thought one of the aft tanks was leaking. You have to remove the port side tank first, which happens to be in the very middle of the boat. That one is very easy to remove. In order to remove the starboard tank, the port side tank has to be out. There is a small access hole behind the Starboard tank, on the fiberglass wall that separates the two tanks. On my boat, hold number 1897 manufactured in the year 2000, this hole could be made larger and also have an access port from the top. Very uncomfortable position for the repair guy, otherwise known as me. You have to remove the two clamps that attach overflow hose, turn disconnect/remove over flow hose. Then unscrew the gray connector from the aft of the tank.
Now you can lift the AFT end of the tank to access the connector at the front of tank feeding water to pump. I tried to remove the approximately 1/2" flexible lines from the hose hose fittings but couldn't do so. On my boat there was excess hose length so I opted to cut the hose off about an inch from the 90 degree tank elbow connector fittings. My boat is 20 years old and the inside of the fittings was gross. We could have replaced these elbows but opted to soak in 1: 3 (diluted) solution of bleach & water. I took out my tanks, plugging the elbow at the front of the tank (sharpie pen in hose stub worked well) and filled with water to make sure tank wasn't cracked or leaking. No holes or cracks found. Time to reinsert elbow connectors: Wrapped the cleaned elbow threads with white plumbers tape, gently tightening. Warmed up hole ends with heat gun and re attached hoses.
It is very important to look in through the top of the tank access hole to see if there's any crap in the bottom of the tank. What I found was disgusting....reason to NOT seal access hole permanently. Pictures coming soon. I think my leak was at the elbows.
peter g
2000 C36, MK2, Hull. #1897
wonderful, wonderful, wonderful ! ! !. 5 th Catalina
Water tank couplings.
peter g
2000 C36, MK2, Hull. #1897
wonderful, wonderful, wonderful ! ! !. 5 th Catalina
Water tank parts
peter g
2000 C36, MK2, Hull. #1897
wonderful, wonderful, wonderful ! ! !. 5 th Catalina