Fuel Gauge Sender Unit Adjustment

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pierview
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Fuel Gauge Sender Unit Adjustment

Had an interesting learning experience this week. Maybe this will shorten someone else's experience if they have the same problem.

Back story... had a load of bad fuel... wanted to pump it out which required removing the fuel gauge sending unit to get into the tank. This required removing the two wires coming from the sending unit... one a bayonet clip on the edge of the unit, the other an "o" clip on a bolt on top of the unit. The "o" ring is held on with a nut, then the "o" ring, then another nut.

In removing the "o" ring, I inadvertently loosened the bottom nut. Thought nothing of it an retightened it.

Went ahead and removed the fuel ,and reinserted the sending unit but, even though I had added about a 1/2 tank of new fuel, the gauge read about 1/4 full. For those who have never experienced the pleasure of working on the sender, its in the starboard cockpit locker about 2" below the deck accessed thru one of those screw -out covered access holes, meaning your leaning over the edge of the locker and working thru a small opening with your hands pretty much blocking the view. The unit is secured in place by 5 bolts around the circular plate holding the sending unit.

Since the gauge was getting a signal it seemed that the inaccurate reading was caused by the swing arm not fully swinging up and hitting the side of the tank. Simple solution, take the 5 bolts out, move the sending unit cover a rotation one way or the other and re-seat. This is when, after about 2 hours of unscrewing, reseating rescrewing and cursing, I discovered the 5 bolts look like they're equally spaced, but they're not. There is really only one way the plate will correctly sit. However, when I put the plate in that position, the swing arm clearly hit the side of the tank and would not swing up.

After about another hour of the aforementioned cursing, I had the "eureka!!" moment. I had assumed ( bad thing as we all know) that the bolt on the top was fixed simply for the electrical connection, but not true. The 1st nut on the top of the plate holds the swing arm at the correct angle in the tank. If you loosen it, you can rotate the bolt itself causing the swing arm to rotate left or right in the tank with the top plate in place. It's hard to retighten the nut because of the limited access, but it can be done. If you have to do this, it's really helpful to have someone who can watch the gauge to see when it gives a true reading so you don't have to get out of the locker and look around the wheel to see the gauge.

Finally, if you have to take the unit out, make a mark on the top of the unit and the tank so you can re-align it easily. I did do this but the fuel that comes out with the unit made short work of that. I'd recommend making a scratch mark that can't be wiped off.

Hope this provides helpful to someone

Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ

pierview
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One small point I noticed after I posted this... the unit is in the starboard locker looking aft. It's actually in the port locker looking forward, as most people would, but then I'm left handed in some aspects of my life.

Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ

baysailor2000's picture
baysailor2000
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Nice write up - I followed you very well. My gauge also does not read properly. It reads about 1/4 of a tank less than what it should be. This leads to overfilling the tank and the fuel comes out of the vent hole. I now have an adjustment to do. Thanks for the tip.

Haro Bayandorian, 1999 C36 MKII, Sail La Vie #1787, M35B,
Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA.

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deising
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Thanks, Chuck, for that good info. It so great when members help each other out with that kind of sharing.

Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/

windward1
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Posts: 146

Good information. My gauge always shows fuel to be about 1/8th more than is actually in the tank. I try to keep a log of hours used and find that on my M30A (30 hp) I burn .6 gallons per hour. I try to top off when the gauge gets down to around 1/2 gallon.

Richard
1994 C36 Tall Rig M1.5
Waukegan Harbor
Lake Michigan

pierview
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Richard.... you actually run your fuel down to half a gallon?? That seems awfully low to risk it and any rough seas might cause the pickup to come out of the fuel and suck in air... but if it works for you...

Haro...

I sometimes get fuel burping out the vent too regardless of the gauge. I ended up buying (West Mar. I think) a bottle device with suction cups that sticks to the transom over the vent. Any fuel that does come up goes into the bottle which I can then drain back into the tank. It does not come back up since it's a small amount and not under pressure.

The other alternative is to have the Admiral hold a paper towel over the vent but then, if fuel does come up, she smells like diesel fuel for a while... not my favorite fragrance.

Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ

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baysailor2000
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Chuck - you have an interesting idea - I did not think of the suction cup solution. Since I am so cheap - I used a 1-quart plastic container of auto oil that I had used, I cut the top off then I drilled a 1" hole on one of the flat side so that it fits over the vent hole protruding fixture and I insert over the protrusion. I place a paper towel inside to catch the overflow if any. Then I have the Admiral listen for the fuel. When any noise can be heard I stop pumping. Usually my fuel gauge will show 3/4 of a tank full. I think this means the tank is full.

Haro Bayandorian, 1999 C36 MKII, Sail La Vie #1787, M35B,
Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA.

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deising
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Interesting discussion. When our gauge reads 2/3 full, I slow down the fill rate and my admiral listens carefully at the vent. If I don't stop at the first 'gurgle' I have a great risk of spilling fuel out the vent within a few seconds.

She holds a small piece of fuel absorbent rag there and we discard it at the fuel dock.

After a short bit (10 seconds or so?), the gauge reads full, so I expect there is a delay in the unit's display.

Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/

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GaryB
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Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine

windward1
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Chuck,
Had a little misprint. I try to top off when the tank gets down to 1/2 full. I worry about enough other things; don't want running out of fuel to be one of them.

Richard
1994 C36 Tall Rig M1.5
Waukegan Harbor
Lake Michigan

pierview
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Windward...

Kind of thought that's what you meant. A consideration in running the tank down low, the first time I took the pickup tube out (when I took the tank out to clean it) I found that someone had obviously taken it out before me. The tube is a hard tube about half way down, then a soft rubber tube that slides over the tip- of the hard tube. This extends down near the bottom, at least in my tank. The filter screen some have on the end of the tube that everyone recommends be taken off was gone..

What happened is they obviously tried to take the tube out by pulling it up thru the little cover plate. The lower tube wont fit thru this hole however, and when they pulled the tube up, the hard tube came out but they pulled the bottom half off, dropping it into the bottom of the tank. They probably never realized they did this, but the bottom line was I was only drawing fuel from the top half of the tank or maybe the top 2/3rds. If I had hit sloppy seas, I could easily have sucked air and stalled out.

To really take the pickup out you have to remove the whole plate and tube fastener.

Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ

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deising
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That is a worthy piece of info, Chuck.

You would think if you pulled out a tube only X inches long that you might use a thin rod to see where the actual tank bottom was and realize is was 2X!

Someone once said that the worst thing about our beloved Catalina 36's is the Previous Owner! They sometimes do some outlandish things.

Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/

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stu jackson c34
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Chuck, thanks for that great post. I've added it to our C34 Critical Upgrades topic, since I think it's sooo important.

[url]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.msg31743.html#msg31743[/url]

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

hilbre
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Posts: 218

I guess all of the fuel sender units vary it telling you how much fuel you have because of the position of the tank float. The cover screws on the sender are offset so it is important to mark the cover and the plate before removing the sender unit. While I did replace my unit over a year ago in La Paz and it works fine, however I still rely on my fuel log and engine hour meter to figure out how much fuel I have left. There are services that will do fuel polishing however the Catalina has no inspection port for a dip stick so to do any fuel polishing you either take the sender unit off so you can circulate the fuel using a fuel polisher in through the fuel filler and out through the now open port where the sender unit was or empty the fuel tank and remove it for a thorough cleaning.
Hilbre

John Meyer
Hilbre
C36 MKll, Hull 2135

Cabrillo Marina, San Pedro, CA

dpower
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Posts: 237

Another option for polishing is to remove the fuel line where it enters into the Racor and attach a line to it to pump out fuel and then just return it through the deck fill fitting.

David S. Power
Two If By Sea #1687
Burnt Store Marina
Punta Gorda, FL

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stu jackson c34
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Also seems to me that the existing fuel pump could be used with the primary (Racor) to do the same.

Has anyone done it this way?

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

BudStreet
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Posts: 1127

Fuel polishing won't get all the gunk out of a tank. It will clean up the fuel temporarily of some stuff in it like the leftover biosolids from having water in there, but the asphaltenes and other precipitate byproducts of making diesel the modern way will still be there and will still work their way into the fuel system. The only way to get the stuff out that's stuck to the walls and floor of the tank is to take it out and have it cleaned. A lot of rad shops do that work nowadays.

Aside from that issue, when you run the fuel pump and the engine is not running, you should hear fuel going back into the tank from the engine return line. You are running fuel through both primary and secondary filters when you do that. Just jump a hot line to the pump and let 'er run.

pierview
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On the fuel tank cleaning, I did that once and two points.... first, its hard to find an old fashioned radiator repair shop these days, and I looked. If your car radiator has a problem they just replace it. The bigger issue is that a repair shop can't clean out a plastic tank (as I have) as they would a metal tank. The process would, I was told, eat up the tank (I'm not an engineer or chemist so if anyone has a differing opinion.... this is just what I was told by the big tank cleaners (as on ships) that I called).

When I took mine out a couple of years ago, I stuck the head of my power washer in the tank and swirled it around as much as possible. Then I bought gunk cleaner from Home Depot, stuck that in , swirled it around and let it sit for a couple of days, swirled again, dumped that and put in some kerosene, repeated the swirling/sitting process, dumped that and reinstalled.

If anyone has a better solution to cleaning a plastic tank, let me know as I'm going thru the process again this winter.

Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ

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John Reimann
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Since we're on the general issue, but off the original poster's story, I have a related question:

Every once in awhile my fuel gauge doesn't register at all. A couple of years back, when this first happened, I replaced the entire sending unit and that seemed to clear things up. The other day it happened again. I was motoring through some chop, and I noticed that after a few minutes of the boat bouncing around the gauge was registering. I guess the float was stuck on something, but I'll be darned if I can figure out what, or why this has happened a few times.

Any thoughts?

SF Bay
1998 C36

deising's picture
deising
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For a symptom like that, I would suspect a loose electrical connection somewhere.

Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/

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benethridge
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This happened to me too. I had bought a brand new fuel sender from CatalinaDirect. It worked for a while, but never registered accurately. Then it stopped working altogether. It was expensive, too, as I recall!

I replaced it with a magnetic fuel sender from River Marine Supply here in Miami. It has no swivel rheostat or long float-on-a-stick and all the electrical stuff is fully encapsulated above the fuel tank. In four years, the sales clerk said he has never had anyone return one, so I have high hopes for this one which, by the way, only cost me about $40.

So far so good. Registering accurately.

Ben Ethridge
Miami, FL
1984 MK1 Hull# 263

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Ben, did you have any issues with the cover plate screws lining up during your replacement?

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

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benethridge
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Hi, Stu. Yes and no. Two of the holes are a bit farther apart than the other three. That had me stumped for a bit, but then I saw it. Once I lined up the odd two holes correctly, it all lined up perfectly.

It's apparently intentional coz both the 5-hole fuel senders I've bought have that nice little "feature". Not sure why they are designed that way.

Ben Ethridge
Miami, FL
1984 MK1 Hull# 263

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