Strangest thing happened.. my deck fitting (the aluminium type with plastic cap) siezed up with Al2O3 corrosion so that I couldn't get the plastic cap off.
So I was Blown Away (OK - also the name of our boat!) that a deck fitting could self destruct in this way.. sheesh!
Anyways, I'd love someone to offer some guidance on how to remove the offending deck fitting (yep - its the WASTE fitting :eek:) so I can replace with a stainless one.
Please don't say this was orignally bedded with 5200 -- or if you have to say this, please type that [B][I]very, very [/I][/B]slowly :rolleyes:
Thanks in advance for the help.
PS: I know this is merely more bonding with my boat :D
Triatica (GlennF)
s/v Blown Away
Sammamish, Wa
Hull #971
1989 Catalina 36
Universal M25xpb
Regardless of whether it is 5200 or not, there is a product Marine Formula that will break down any sealant.
[url]http://www.marineformula.com/[/url]
I've used it many times to dissolve 5200, you need to use a sharp object to clean out a groove under the object, spray in Marine Formula, let it sit, scrape more with the sharp object, spray in Marine Formula, let it sit, repeat. Occasionally try to pry a bit (just a bit not a lot) on the object. You need patience, if you brute force it you will remove gelcoat and make a big mess of your deck. The rest is just disconnecting hose and clamps, which is always a pita and no easy way around it. While it's out you should grind out the core in that area and block it off with thickened epoxy to make sure no water will get in the core in future when your sealant stops working.
An additional point on sealing a part of any kind where using a sealant.
After you do all the prep, removal, cleaning, core sealing etc, after you have applied the sealant, after you have put the part in place and started the fasteners, whether they are bolts, nuts, screws or threaded backers (like a thru hull), then TIGHTEN ONLY PART WAY. Try to achieve a uniform sealant thickness between the two mating surfaces that is appropriate to the job.
This would rarely be more than 1/8th inch and could be as little as a 1/64inch or even less. In the case of a flat part and a curved or irregular surface it could be even thicker in places. LET THE SEALANT CURE. Sometimes this could take days. When you believe that the cure is complete, come back and re-torque the part.
The point is to create some form of gasket with the sealant, no matter how thin and then to apply sealing pressure to this gasket. If you do what you believe is the final "tighten" while the sealant is liquid, you run the risk of squeezing so much out that there may be no seal in some part of the mating surface.
Neil Roach
"Crewless"
1992 36, Mark I
Hull # 1174
Seattle
[url]http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117172[/url]
Great stuff, order it from Maine Sail.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was looking for.
It's been a while (~ year) since I last posted to the Forum, and it's refershing to see such a quick an effective turnaround - especially details around the 5200 sovlent.
Shoutout: Hi Stu! Good to "hear" from you.
Triatica (GlennF)
s/v Blown Away
Sammamish, Wa
Hull #971
1989 Catalina 36
Universal M25xpb
Once last thing guys:
Is the C36 Waste fitting a 1 1/2 inch pipe fitting.. or a different hose diameter?
Reason: Sitting here in Seattle a bit aways from the boat in Friday Harbor, so not able to measure, but needing to order one online in prep for our maintenance trip up there.
Triatica (GlennF)
s/v Blown Away
Sammamish, Wa
Hull #971
1989 Catalina 36
Universal M25xpb