Drilling holes in angleguard for Navpod

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SailorJo
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Joined: 3/21/09
Posts: 20
Drilling holes in angleguard for Navpod

What is the best tool to use for drilling the holes in the angleguard for a navpod? I have to drill the big holes for the wiring, and the little holes for the screws.
I also need to cut out the hole for the instrument to be mounted in the navpod. I don't want to screw up, for obvious reasons. What is the best tool for this? I have heard of a rotozip, or a spin saw. What bit or disc should I use for the plastic?

Owner of a Mk 1 C36 Hull # 379 commissioned December 1984.
Fin keel, standard rigging.
Boat is based in Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, where you will find one of the finest cruising areas in the world.

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Rockman
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Posts: 237

To cut holes in the stainless tube, I use a special stainless drill bit. I use a slow drill speed and some lubricating fluid. To make a large hole, I start with a small hole, and then work up in size.

To cut the Navpod, there should be a template with the instruments. Use it...

If you download one from the internet, make sure when you print it, that it is at the correct scale and has not been reduced to fit the page.
Always measure twice, and cut once.

Cat375 - Rock The Boat - Hull 54
Lake Macquarie - NSW - Australia

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William Matley
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Posts: 167

For holes in the stainless steel tubing get cobalt drill bits, Sears, has them and they will do the job nicely. Start small and go up in drill bit size.

To cut the openings in the NavPod, I used a Dremmel tool with a steel cutter. Go slow and take you time, the cutter can get away from you.

The grinding wheels in the Dremmel tool set can also help with the stainless steel holes. Use the grinder to remove any sharp edges left from the drilling. These sharp edges can easily cut your wires.

Good tools and patience are the key, and the job is not very difficult.

(Don't forget to leave a messenger line for future wire pulls)

Bill Matley

Bill Matley
Duncan Bay Boat Club
Cheboygan, Michigan
Lakes Huron, Michigan,
Canadian North Channel
"Spirit of Aloha" Hull #1252

SailorJo
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Joined: 3/21/09
Posts: 20

[QUOTE=William Matley;9786]For holes in the stainless steel tubing get cobalt drill bits, Sears, has them and they will do the job nicely. Start small and go up in drill bit size.

To cut the openings in the NavPod, I used a Dremmel tool with a steel cutter. Go slow and take you time, the cutter can get away from you.

The grinding wheels in the Dremmel tool set can also help with the stainless steel holes. Use the grinder to remove any sharp edges left from the drilling. These sharp edges can easily cut your wires.

Good tools and patience are the key, and the job is not very difficult.

(Don't forget to leave a messenger line for future wire pulls)

Bill Matley[/QUOTE]

What do you mean by a messenger line?

Owner of a Mk 1 C36 Hull # 379 commissioned December 1984.
Fin keel, standard rigging.
Boat is based in Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, where you will find one of the finest cruising areas in the world.

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plaineolde
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Joined: 11/4/08
Posts: 753

[QUOTE=SailorJo;9787]What do you mean by a messenger line?[/QUOTE]

Tie a string to whatever wire you pull through, leaving the string sticking out of both ends. You can then us it at a later date to pull a new wire through, if you add another component.

As to drilling stainless, besides using a low rpm drill, a drill bit for stainless and perhaps lubrication, the key is to keep constant pressure as you drill. Stainless work hardens; if you are drilling with the bit cutting, then take pressure off the drill, it will harden the surface and it becomes almost impossible to get a bit started again. Using a slow speed/less heat helps prevent this, but once the bit starts cutting, you need to complete the hole.

btw, this isn't my advice, you'll find pretty much the same from mainsail and other pros. I found out the hard way melting several expensive drill bits in a drill press before I found out I was doing it wrong :mad:

Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay

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Rockman
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Joined: 7/12/10
Posts: 237

Good point about smoothing up the hole once it has been drilled. I bought a new boat where they had left the burh behind. After motoring for a while, the cable finally wore through, and the motor died. Luckily it was a light day and we made it back safely, but it could have been a disaster :eek:

When in doubt, I make a mock up first. Then when its right, transfer it to the actual Navpod and repeat the process.

Cat375 - Rock The Boat - Hull 54
Lake Macquarie - NSW - Australia

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meteor64
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Joined: 8/31/10
Posts: 29

The most important part of drilling stainless is firm pressure and low rpm's. Do not let the drill bit spin on the metal.

Do not use oil as lubricant. It will make the drill bit spin freely and burn it. Either drill dry or with special cutting fluid meant for stainless.

Wear safety glasses. Drilling usually creates chips instead of long shavings. The chips tend to fly and create an eye hazard.

Good luck.

Francois Desrochers - C375 Tech Editor
S/V Alizes #15
Lake Ontario
2009 C375

neilroach
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Joined: 2/4/10
Posts: 126

When I installed a navpod on my guard, after having it bent to a good angle I followe the above recomendations for the smaller holes. For the mass of cables, however I employed a little different technique. I wanted an elongated hole on each side, so that the cables didn" make a sharp bent entering the tubing. I marked a hole on each side about 3/4 inch wide by
1 1/4 long. I found that small cut off wheels on my dremel tool made wuich work of the process after drilling about a 1/4 inch hole at each corner. Disks and the little drum sander for the dremel, finished the smoothing of the edges and I had no trouble snaking the wires through the holes on both sides.
I recomend taking the guard off the deck for all of this work.

Neil Roach
"Crewless"
1992 36, Mark I
Hull # 1174
Seattle

pierview
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Joined: 9/27/09
Posts: 605

Everything everyone else said is absolutely correct of course, but one thing to look out for, that has not been mentioned,is to be VERY CAREFUL as you get thru the pipe so you don't drill into one of the power lines already running to your pod (don't ask how I know). Go very slowly and check often.

Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ

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