C36 Basic Maintenance 101

Tools to do the job are simple -- a crescent wrench or set of open end wrenches, and a filter wrench that will fit the size of the oil filter.  Also, I like to keep the oil absorbent cloths handy (the white things under the wrench).  They're cheap, and they can help you avoid a big mess.

In fact, I haven't used the filter wrench for the past few years, as the FRAM filter has a texture coating which allows it to be removed by hand.  If you're using a normal slick-sided filter, you're going to need a filter wrench.

The oil is sucked out of a tube in a C36 -- not drained out like a vehicle.  

A Jabsco hand pump comes with the boat.  It works, but I also found it to be slow and messy.

Since I prefer not to wear my dirty oil, I've been using a vacuum pump like this.  This is about a $40 pump (there are other similar pumps out there), and since I started using an "Oil Boy" several years ago, I now also use it on my vehicles at home.

You'll need four quarts of 10-30 oil, marine grade.  I've always used DELO, but this year moved over to the synthethic Mobil 1, based on the recommendation Hans Treu mentioned in his engine overhaul article (in Owner to Owner).

The C36 actually hold 4 1/2 quarts, but about 3/4 quart of old oil remains in the engine, in my experience, so four quarts should do it.

I'm writing this as gas is costing  $3/gallon -- figure the cost of the oil will run from $2 to $4 per quart.

The factory oil filter used is a Universal part 300209.  Conversions for that filter are:
    Kubota 70000-15241
    Fram PH-3593-A
    NAPA 1064, 1334
    NAPA 1356 (1/2” smaller)
    Motorcraft FL-799
    AC PF-57
    Lee LF-2808
    Purolator PER-4620
    Wix 51334

As you can see, I prefer the FRAM PH3593 -- partly because I can get it at WalMart for under $4.  Mainly I like Fram's textured coating.  A filter costs from $3 to $12.

Part II -- CHANGING THE OIL

You never want to try to change cold oil -- unless you want to buy a new oil suction pump.  

Rule of thumb:  You need to start your engine and run it for about 10 minutes, or until warm (not hot -- but warm.  See next photo).

When the temp gauge (bottom right gauge) reaches between 100-120 degrees, then shut down the engine.

Remove the steps, and remove this cabinet.  

WARNING:  Removing and replacing the engine cover out may be the single hardest step.  I lift mine up and over the galley sink, and place it on two pillows on the main cabin table.  Never had a problem yet, but I still fear the first time I drop it on the galley faucet.

Another way:
Owner Sean McGuckin said the cover fits nicely by lifting and turning it 90 degrees, placing it in front of the oven and over the trash bin.  He folds a towel over the lid to the trash bin before he do this to ensure no scratches.

Whether you're a new owner, or seasoned, sit down in front of the engine for a few minutes and look it over.  Take a moment to bond with it.  OOOOOMMMMM.  

If you find dirt/grease, wipe it clean with a dry cloth.  This glob of metal and gears may save your life someday, so treat it well.  Look for cracks in hoses, possible water or fuel leaks, loose nuts -- any areas that you might be concerned about.  My engine shown is in its 8th season.

This is the oil removal tube.  A short/quick twist with the wrench and it should come loose.  You may need to hold the tube steady with one hand.

We don't "drain" the oil, we suck it out.

Like a mother penguin feeding her baby, insert a tube from the pump kit into the oil removal tube.  Slide the tube down until it stops.  

In this picture, the tube is dark because it's pulling out the oil.

Join the tubes together to the pump, and give it several pumps.  A few pumps will normally suck out all the oil in 10-20 minutes, and place the dirty oil very neatly in a container for you to empty when you're done.

In a matter of seconds, you'll be able to see the oil being drawn out of the engine and filling the tank of the Oil Boy.

If you're using the Jabsco hand pump, pump the oil into a gallon jug or other container, and remember to wear OLD CLOTHES.

Now sit back and watch the pump remove your oil.

A COUPLE OF VERY IMPORTANT TIPS: 

1.  Before you start, give your crew 'chores' on deck, like scrubbing off the black marks on deck, while you're doing the "man's work" downstairs. 

2.  It's a good idea to clank some tools together and loudly curse every now and then as the oil is sucked out of the engine. 

3.  If Mary's reading this...  um... I'm only kidding, dear!!

Eventually the tube will make a sucking sound as the oil starts to run empty.  Give a few more pumps on the pump, readjust your tube inside the engine, and when no more oil seems to flow, consider it done.  Remove the tubes (carefully, with an oil absorbent cloth in one hand to catch any drips), and put the tubes back in the box.  Set the container in the cockpit so when you're done, you can carry it to the oil receptacle nearly every harbor provides.

Each line on the pup represents a quart, so about 3 3/4 quarts were drawn out of the engine -- and another cup will come out when we remove the oil filter.

Don't forget to replace the cap on the oil removal tube -- and "snug it" with a wrench so it doesn't wiggle off (or you'll be groping around for it in the bilge later on.  This from experience).

Part III -- CHANGING THE FILTER

Now it's time to remove the old oil filter.  I normally stuff a little of the oil absorbent rag under the filter, and close to the engine, to catch any oil that my drip as it's removed.  Now remove the filter.  Just twist it of with your hand -- or use the filter wrench.

Owner Sean McGuckin places a large freezer food storage bag over the oil filter before removing it, and the bag traps oil that spills from the filter with little to clean up, and the bag seals the filter for clean/easy disposal.

If you've never looked under an oil filter, do so now.  And take the opportunity to wipe off any oil drips to keep your engine clean.

Now dip your finger in the new oil and rub a coating around the gasket before replacing it.  This keeps the filter from sticking.

Now replace the filter BY HAND.  When the filter starts to become snug, hand tighten it about 1/4 of a turn - no more.

We're almost done...  it's time to put the clean oil back in.

Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine.

With a funnel, or VERY CAREFULLY, replace the oil.  My change took exactly four quarts.

By hand, replace the oil filler cap so it's snug.

Now start the engine for 2-3 minutes and check for leaks around the oil filter, then shut the engine off.  Running the engine also allows oil to fill the empty oil filter you just installed.

We always check for leaks around the oil filter.  In all honesty, I've been changing oil on vehicles for close to 40 years and I've never seen an oil filter leak yet.  Still, check to make sure it's not oozing oil around the new filter.

Also, a tip from Tom Farr:  The new oil will quickly mix with the remaining 3/4 quart of old oil and turn dark very quickly.  Don't worry -- that's the nature of a diesel engine.

Last thing, check the dipstick and make sure it reads full.   Okay, a lot of us don't always do this, but if you're learning how, you need to do it correctly.  

NEVER THINK ADDING AN EXTRA QUART OF OIL WOULD BE A GOOD THING. You don't want to put too much oil in.  Too much oil will make a HUGE MESS, and possibly damage your engine.  If you overfilled your engine, you need to extract the extra oil.

Now take your old oil and filter and dispose of it correctly, and put your tools away.