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Bilge Pump not working? It might not be the pump...
Replacing the Bilge Pump Float Switch
by Bill Miller
Bilge pump failure? Maybe, but an important item, one that's often overlooked, is the bilge pump float switch. Mine stopped working last summer, sometime in September Estimated life? 4 to 5 years in salt water.
Step one is you got to take the old float switch out. Pretty easy. With screw driver you just back out two screws.
Note there is a plastic spacer under the switch. Actually I am installing the new switch here but you get the idea.
Now you will have to cut the wire. I noticed that water had wicked up the wire and had corroded it from the inside out.
Cut back the boat wire until you hit clean copper.
Now crimp on the two connectors. But first note I have put two heat shrink tubes over the wire before I crimped it.
Now slide the heat shrink tubes over the connectors and put a heat gun on it. Make sure it makes a good seal.
This is how it should look. Now put the wire back in the plastic wire holder. Using wire tie or Clip secure wire so it is not drooping in the bilge.
The following tip is added by Tom Sokoloski: "Dab a bit of silicone on the ends of the heat shrink. You might want to use the heat shrink tubing made by Ancor, which comes with a heat activated glue on the inside. This would be a perfect application for that product. If applied properly, it completely seals the butt connection. It's ridiculously expensive for the quantity you use, but it works very well."
Bill
Miller
"Magic III"
Hull #1901